StevieB
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 08:51 PM |
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R1 long engine bolts...
Evenin' all,
I need to find somewhere that can do me a couple of m10x280 bolts for my R1 engine.
So far, I've only found places that will sell be bulk boxes, which means I'll have 98 spare engine bolts and the 2 I use will have cost
£27.50 each.
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dmac
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 09:09 PM |
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try your local Yamaha dealer, I got a complete set of engine bolts for less than £10.
Duncan
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smart51
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 09:27 PM |
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I used studding with a nyloc on each end. 3 years in and its been just fine.
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dmac
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 09:31 PM |
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Now that sounds like a proper locost solution!
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StevieB
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 09:35 PM |
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I've got threaded rod in there at the moment but I don't like it - with the engine vibration it's a bit like having a saw blade
against the soft ali engine. This does not sit well in my mind.
I'm not sure if the orignal Yamaha bolts are long enough for the MK engine cradle. I'd be more than happy to find othrwise - keeps life
nice and simple/cheap 
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dmac
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| posted on 22/11/08 at 09:56 PM |
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My bolts are 220mm from under the bolt head to the end of the bolt (for an early carbed engine).
It seems to me that its a poor design of cradle if it won't accept the original bolts.
You could always get some plain rod and thread the ends for nuts.
Duncan
[Edited on 22/11/08 by dmac]
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jambo
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| posted on 23/11/08 at 12:57 AM |
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get a bit of 10mm bar and thread your own to suit,
much stronger than chocolate threaded rod.
i used threaded bar before and it snaped in uses such as this.
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smart51
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| posted on 23/11/08 at 08:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
with the engine vibration it's a bit like having a saw blade against the soft ali engine.
The bar goes through one engine mount, through the engine, then through the other engine mount. It is clamped up tight. There will be no movement of
the bolt through the engine. Engine vibration will shake the whole car on its suspension springs but won't move the bolts.
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