Big Hyndy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:31 PM |
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Whats the biggest power BEC on here?
My good mate has just bought the black westy busa turbo off of here and the engine is away back to Hole shot Racing in Ireland for a full strip and
rebuild, he has the option to go from 300 odd bhp to 450bhp with a bugger turbo and upgrade clutch. It would workout at about 1000bhp per ton. Now I
was talking to a guy at Knockhill today with a standard busa engine in situ or his westy and he thinks traction is going to be a major problem with
450bhp even with 9" slicks.
Does anyone have experience with big bhp BEC's? He is happy to part with the dough to get it done and is happy to learn to tame the car over
time but he doesnt want to spend the money and find it to be totally undrivable. I think it will be insane and take a lot to get use to but like
anything you just have to go cany and go through the process.
Any feedback would be appreciated as he needs to let the company know ASAP.
Cheers
Callum.
[Edited on 19/5/13 by Big Hyndy]
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maccmike
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:38 PM |
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Id imagine it would be a pig until in treble figures. If he's got money to burn, investing in trick traction control might be worth while. Or
boost control to limit power until certain speed reached. Aero might help too.
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twybrow
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:44 PM |
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What does he want to use it for? Drag racing? Hill climbing? Pub bragging rights?
I would say it would be a waste of money - far better to spend money on brakes, tyres, suspension, and most importantly, driver training. If he is the
next Senna, then go for it, otherwise, it will be a drag race between corners - not really what these cars are all about IMHO.
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:47 PM |
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Yep I have had them,
And so has a good friend of mone,
Near 500bp busa turbo,
Traction control would be needed for sure on that sort of power,
I ran from 260 to 340 bhp and it's plenty,
If slightly damp do go out for sure,
Personally around the 300 mark is spot on will scare you and is controllable to a degree,
I could light up the rear tyres when dropping a gear at 115 mph,
But if he wants it and can afford the rebuild then great as it will go bang for sure ,
Also needs to upgrade the output shaft if not already done so,
Nice power and expect big bills,
Sean
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Big Hyndy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:51 PM |
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Mainly trackdays and sprints etc, he is a good driver and is not shy of doing near 200mph on a bike and has owned some fast cars but this in my eyes
is a wee bit different. I think its more about losing the driveability of the car and as Maccmike says if its a pig until 100+ whats the point? You
just need an all round well hooked up car IMO but if it was going to be driveable then it would be worth it? Its hard to say without tried it.
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Big Hyndy
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 posted on 19/5/13 at 08:54 PM |
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Thanks Sean thats exactly what I wanted to know mate!
Cheers
Callum.
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:55 PM |
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Some vid of a friend of mine Duncan
In his busa dax turbo,
Gives you an idea
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SXZR5srXeHE
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daniel mason
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 08:56 PM |
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with that power he will need to spend at least as much on suspension,brakes and chassis.these cars are not designed for straight line speed.
hed be better off with standard reliable power and good suspensin/geo setup like nitron 3 way adjustables from meteor,good brakes,wheels and tyres
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perksy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 09:09 PM |
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If running big horsepower and 9" slicks it would be worth double checking the diff carrier area of the chassis with perhaps
a view to re-inforcing it.
Thats if it hasn't been done already ?
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Karl H
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 09:31 PM |
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"bugger turbo" sounds painful!!!  
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Big Hyndy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 09:32 PM |
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Ive just spoke to him on the phone and he and I both agree that 300ish is enough as the money doesnt stop at the big BHP engine. the money he will
save on the upgrade kit will be used wisely on a full race setup to make the most of the car in every department.
Cheers again guys!
Callum
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Big Hyndy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 09:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Karl H
"bugger turbo" sounds painful!!!
One slip of the finger haha!
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maccmike
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 09:46 PM |
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make sure you upload some piccys
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Big Hyndy
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| posted on 19/5/13 at 10:05 PM |
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This is his car
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=180612
All the lights etc are all wired in now onto a panel of switches with just the brake lights to do for MOT, engine build gets starts tomo so hopefully
have it back by the end of next week. Pics of my mini and the westy will follow when they are built and see some tarmac 
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jwhatley
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| posted on 20/5/13 at 10:32 AM |
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Hello from a fellow holeshot engined member!
Firstly tell your mate he has bought a monster of a car, and if its his first car of this type and power then go very careful as they are very
unforgiving! - only turn it up when you are very confident of your ability and the characteristics of the car.
I have a 1441 Holeshot Busa lump in my MK, with a GT30-76R turbo built by jack about 2 years ago at an enormous cost to the previous owner. Jack says
its the highest spec engine hes built for a car, but id imagine hes done more since then. The engine is a 600bhp lump but that is complete overkill so
i have adjustable boost to allow control of power from 250-450bhp using eBoost2 (22psi boost) over 4 stages from the push of a button on the dash,
which i couldn't recommend higher. Having the stronger engine and using it at lower power levels gives me a sense of security knowing i am no
way near its designed limits, you will only grenade an engine that you drive like you stole, and to be honest if you do that on the road you'll
be dead before the engine gives up! - i would keep it for track and get involved in a club that does solos and sprints.
To put the car in to pub figures - 0-60 is under 3 seconds provided you keep the tyres planted (faster than an atom 300) it gets to 100 in 6 seconds,
im told it does a 10 sec 1/4 mile pass but i haven't run it on the strip yet.
I usually run it day to day on stage 1 (250bhp) and when on track or you have a glorious sunny warm day i take it up to stages 2/3, i have not yet
used stage 4 although i am still getting used to the car.
I run a Cossie diff with a Quaife LSD, engine/diff is geared to 140mph, HD box and output shaft, uprated prop shaft and 10 inch back wheels with 245
rubber on them. I also have a set of slicks for track. With all that and power on stage 2 (340bhp) you light the wheels up in 6th if you want to.
Once the tyres are warm and on track it is much better and grip levels increase 10 fold. Stage 3 and 4 is where the car becomes a complete different
animal.
Alot of people comment on the power saying its unusable and not required, but its all down to your ability to be honest. Accelerator progression and
control is something you will only master with a car like this. I personally like the fact i have to be progressive and balance the throttle. - If you
watch the video posted of duncan at bedford you can see how much a car like this needs control.
Reliability - Prepare to spend alot of money on oil! ive done 900 miles since november, serviced every 500 miles with fresh oil and a filter, my dry
sump which im assuming you have is 6 litres, adding the oil cooler in and pipework means it takes a good 8 litres of oil - £100 of oil!
Other than that, the car has given me no problems. you may need to look and see if you have thermostats fitted to the oil and water as mine did not,
and i don't get high enough temps when driving on the road. Easy to install a bypass one in to the pipework though.
Clutch - Keep the standard Suzuki plates as they are the best, you need at least a solid billet centre with backtorque eliminator and single stage
lock up clutch and uprated springs - This is what i run and other than the plates being worn ive had no slip problems.
I would invest straight away in changing the intercooler layout and inlet pipework. I am running a charge cooler and the inlet filter is in the
passenger footwell to aid inlet temps which you will find are an issue at times.
Talk with Jack though, he is great and a fountain of knowledge when it comes to these engines. He has advised and helped me in a great way so far an i
couldn't recommend them more.
Heres a few photos.
Enjoy it and be careful
John
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rodgling
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| posted on 20/5/13 at 10:44 AM |
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I'm using the racelogic traction control on an M3 engined 7 (i.e., poo loads of torque), it's very very good and not silly expensive - I
paid about £500 for the system. On a trackday with torrential rain I could just nail the throttle coming out of corners and it could control the power
enough to put the power down without the back end stepping out. So my vote is go for the monster engine and fit that.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 20/5/13 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jwhatley
Reliability - Prepare to spend alot of money on oil! ive done 900 miles since november, serviced every 500 miles with fresh oil and a filter, my dry
sump which im assuming you have is 6 litres, adding the oil cooler in and pipework means it takes a good 8 litres of oil - £100 of oil!
Holy carp, 500 miles between oil changes?!!! Do you own shares in Mobil or something?
Can I ask why though? And if you're only using the early stages at the moment, will you need to be changing it even more frequently when you
start using stage 4?
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markie t
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| posted on 20/5/13 at 07:17 PM |
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hi, a friend of mine owns Paul F/Seauns previous zx10turbo which is currently running 340bhp at the rear wheels so he tells me (his job is dynoing at
the local college) and is a very quick car having been out in it quite a few times and for me is probably too much power in something of that weight
without traction control, the back will step out in quite high gears when geared down and given a bootfull, he has also rebuilt the engine and the
cost wasnt too cheap so i think i would tend to agree with most and spend the money on complete setup and keep the current power, only go for it if
you have deep pockets as it will probably go bang at some point and it will maybe lose driveability. I also run an r1 indy 160bhp and it makes that
feel pedestrian ! he also hinted to me last week it may possibly be going up for sale soon but dont think he is 100% sure yet.
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jwhatley
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| posted on 26/5/13 at 09:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by jwhatley
Reliability - Prepare to spend alot of money on oil! ive done 900 miles since november, serviced every 500 miles with fresh oil and a filter, my dry
sump which im assuming you have is 6 litres, adding the oil cooler in and pipework means it takes a good 8 litres of oil - £100 of oil!
Holy carp, 500 miles between oil changes?!!! Do you own shares in Mobil or something?
Can I ask why though? And if you're only using the early stages at the moment, will you need to be changing it even more frequently when you
start using stage 4?
Thats a recommendation from Holeshot. They say change the oil/filter every 500 miles or after 2 track days.
Based on how good oils are nowadays i wouldn't think its necessary to do it that frequently, but until ive done a few changes ill keep the
interval at that. Once ive done a few and i can gauge how quick the oil degrades than i can hopefully push it towards the 1000 mile mark. Which will
save me alot of cash!
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