aliwizard
|
| posted on 7/8/19 at 06:39 PM |
|
|
cutting ouy
hi all anybody no what wattage the 100 ohm resistor is in the zzr1100 ignition barrel , I just took a length of wire put a 100 ohm resistor on the end
connected other end to live terminal on battery , put red lead from multi meter on end of resistor ,and earth of the Multi meter to earth no change
in voltage resistor is ok so what am I not understanding ,I thought this would reduce voltage , the grey wire down to the ic igniter on the zzr was
supposed to reduced in voltage , any ideas
|
|
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 7/8/19 at 07:09 PM |
|
|
Wattage won't affect the voltage drop. What are you trying to achieve? As far as I can see you just measured battery voltage across a resistor,
which gives the expected result of battery voltage. Are you looking for some level of voltage drop, and if so, what level?
[Edited on 7/8/19 by coyoteboy]
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 7/8/19 at 07:21 PM |
|
|
this is the forth thread that you have started about the same problem.
you need to take the car to an electrical specialist, or, do day one of an automotive electrical fault course.
this very helpful page from a professional meter supplier, might help
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting
if it doesn't help you, I hope it helps others
you still need to check the earths/0v/chassis/the black wire
|
|
|
hughpinder
|
| posted on 8/8/19 at 07:22 AM |
|
|
gremlin1234 that is a great link, thanks!
|
|
|
russbost
|
| posted on 8/8/19 at 08:10 AM |
|
|
"this is the forth thread that you have started about the same problem.
you need to take the car to an electrical specialist, or, do day one of an automotive electrical fault course. "
I would echo this - you have also completely ignored all the info I sent you when you u2u'd me. I have already pointed out that without the
100ohm resistor in series in the grey lead to the igniter it won't run in the first place, yours runs so in looking at the resistor, unless
there is a poor connection which sometimes breaks down you are looking in the wrong place.
It's a bit like dropping your keys in a dark area & then going to look for them under a lamp post as there's more light there!
[Edited on 8/8/19 by russbost]
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
aliwizard
|
| posted on 8/8/19 at 04:39 PM |
|
|
cutting out
sorry Russ for some reason I cannot open u2u , right last try , yes I was just measuring battery voltage through the resistor I was thinking the
voltage drops down through the resistor to a certain level ,down the grey to the igniter but this cannot be the case as I have 12.5 volts going in
to the igniter from grey wire , in theory this is simple as hell but a bleeping nightmare , , the problem is a random cutting out of the motor it has
to be electrical , as I have said I have 12.5 volts out of yellow black earth wire ,and 12.5 volts from black green side stand ,this is obviously not
correct and would never be put to earth I was wondering if this somehow was linked to the cutting out , one thing I found to night was I have only 10
volts from the yellow red wire that goes to the starter relay I have 12.5 from white wire permanent live which is correct could this be the
problem, nicktones diagram shows his red yellow joined to the igniter and ignition then feeding the starter relay ,I must have 2 separate feeds as I
have 10 volts at the starter relay ,and 12.5 at the igniter if they were joined I would have 12.5 volts at both ,second his diagram shows the green
black and yellow black joined then going to battery negative then to earth, and then on to the starter relay ,I have not done this yet as I have 12
volts out of the wires I just put then to earth on the chassis ,I have run a separate earth to the starter relay from the chassis ,its a pain as I
was ready for iva ,so I have 2 choices put back together and leave as it is, it has never cut out in motion , it never cut out on the rolling road
under load , 2 rip it all out and as you say get a pro loom guy in I will ley you no how it all goes thanks for your help
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 8/8/19 at 05:07 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by aliwizard
... his diagram shows the green black and yellow black joined then going to battery negative then to earth, and then on to the starter relay ,I
have not done this yet as I have 12 volts out of the wires ...
as I have said, these wires need a proper return path
a diagram from the fluke page that I linked to before, shows why they read 12v
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting
https://dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/6012026a-en-auto-troubleshooting-03.jpg
fix that ground/chassis/0v/black wire before you do anything else
ps if still weary of connecting the ground properly, test it though a fuse first
|
|
|
russbost
|
| posted on 8/8/19 at 06:31 PM |
|
|
You are leading yopurself up the garden path with the business of having 12V on what should be an earth wire, if you removed the earth path from a
bulb that was turned on & measured voltage between the earth you've removed & battery neg, you'd record battery voltage because
your multimeter would be providing the earth path & it's resistance is huge, therefore all the voltage would be across the large resistor
(your meter) & youd see 12.5V or whatever.
I've attached my u2u below in case that helps, but you have some very odd wiring colours, which makes diagnosis become guesswork
"Sorry, but I am totally confused by what colours you're saying you've got. Normally, at the ign. sw. black with red tracer is the
trip wire for the starter motor, should only be live when in the cranking position. Red is usually an ignition live, but red with a white tracer is
brake light wiring feed???
I haven't got a wiring dig for the D7, but I've never seen an igniter without a grey wire which has to have the 100 ohm resistor in that
feed or it won't run.
I can see some potential for confusion as on some looms there is a black/red tracer at the igniter which then becomes yellow/red tracer at a plug,
could you be seeing that as red/white.
The fact that it runs in the first place means you must have the 100 ohm resistor in the feed to the igniter.
I guess it's possible that something could be interfering thro' incorrect wiring like brake lights or something causing a build up of
voltage & upsetting the igniter, but they're not very sophisticated.
Does it still have the box with starter circuit relay?
The other thing that doesn't make sense is green/black for the side stand switch - side stand is always green/white but it does connect to a
green black via that starter circuit relay box via a diode"
HTH
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
