Oliver Jetson
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 05:43 PM |
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How do I go about extending the HT leads on my R1 coils?
Has anyone done this - I need to so that I can mount them in a suitable place on my scuttle.
What do I need to do?
Cheers,
Oli
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subk2002
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 05:54 PM |
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My coils are mounted on the plastic plate they came with and just sit on top like they do on the bike
Drew
Check my photo archive under air box and you can see where they sit
[Edited on 6/4/05 by subk2002]
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Oliver Jetson
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 06:04 PM |
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Drew,
I had thought of that but space is well tight under my locost bonnet (less room than your MK), so I can't use the plastic plate.
Thanks,
Oli
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subk2002
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 06:16 PM |
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I think you can buy long leads from halfords and they just push in.
Im not to sure, someone will correct me if im wrong
Drew
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marc n
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 06:20 PM |
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you can buy longer coil lead ( it screws into the barbs in the plug cap and coils )
regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Hellfire
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 07:18 PM |
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Just measure the lengths you require and get them to order from Merlin Motorsport (IIRC). Also make sure you get the 7mm dia and not the 8mm dia
leads. 
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OX
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 07:29 PM |
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i think the leads are sealed into the coil tho
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Oliver Jetson
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 07:53 PM |
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The plug ends screw off I've just noticed and just had a word with someone who seems to be in the know, and he said that NGK do an adaptor which
screws into the existing leads (at the unscrewed plug end) and then you can screw in a new length of lead to the other side of the adaptor, therefore
lengthening them.
The leads are sealed into the coils I think by the looks of it.
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Kissy
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| posted on 7/4/05 at 12:52 PM |
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You can either:
1. extend the existing leads by letting a section of HT into the middle of it. I have made successful joins either by baring back the copper and
soldering it, then build up the insulation needed using heatshrink tube, or by using small self-tapping screws brazed back to back, again using h/s
tube to restore insulation. Last layer should ideally be adhesive lined to seal joint.
or
2. Use the above method but replace plug cap on new extended piece - yes it can be done. The part of the cap that connects to the plug can be
unscrewed. the lead will then pull out of the top of the cap. The brass washer can then be de-soldered from the lead and be soldered on the new one.
Again use the h/s tube to fix insulation
or
3. Completely replace the HT wire. The ribbed collar at coil entry will undo. The wire can then be pulled out (it fits to a spike internal to the
coil). To replicate the rib on the HT wire for the collar to bear on I used a 3mm length of adhesive lined heatshrink (may need 2 layers)
All the foregoing is based on my experience with my CBR1000FP - I think a lot will translate to other brands.
Pic: http://locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=engine%20above%20l-h.JPG
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Oliver Jetson
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| posted on 7/4/05 at 04:34 PM |
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Is this what I need?
HT lead connector
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Kissy
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| posted on 8/4/05 at 10:28 AM |
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They'd do, but you could do better/neater - depends on the configuration. I could mod you a set at cost - I work in Cannock so you cannot be too
far away. I'm changing jobs soon so you need to let me know. I can always post 'em back to you.
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