smart51
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 04:10 PM |
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R1 clutch problem
Its just one thing after another
Having stripped, cleaned and rebuilt my carbs, I've finally got my enigne running. I pushed my car to the back of the garage, pressed the
clutch pedal and selected 1st gear. No problem. I fed in the clutch and drove forwards by about a metre. A very exciting first drive. Pushed the
car back and tried again. the gear grabbed but the car didn't move forwards so I thought I'd be OK. Tried to feed the clutch again but
there was no weight in the pedal. The cable was OK but I can turn the clutch lever on the enigne by hand.
What has broken and how do I fix it?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 06:07 PM |
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As Mark says, it sounds like you've over actuated the clutch. On the R1 the clutch spring is a diaphragm spring, so it can go over-centre if
pulled too much. I imagine if you pop the clutch cover off it should be pretty obvious if this has happened, as the diaphragm spring will be concave
holding the clutch open, rather than convex pushing it together.
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richardR1
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 06:51 PM |
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Agree with the above. Happened on my mate's R1 Mini rally car. While you have the cover off change the clutch diaphragm for a Barnett pressure
plate. Much more clutch feel, no slipping and a lovely anodised red finish.
MK Owners Club Member 1015
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smart51
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 07:13 PM |
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I have fitted a clutch pedal stop but haven't yet set it. I didn't know where the biting point of the clutch was until I got teh engine
running. Typical.
The clutch pull lever moves through its 90° movement without any problem so it isn't stuck or jammed.
I have read through the service manual and can see that either the spring must be inside out or the pull rod and pull lever shaft have become
disengaged.
Since I need to drain the oil and replace the clutch cover gasket, I may as well replace the clutch plates. What are the best plates to use? Yamaha
ones or aftermarket?
Where can I get these from and also where can I get a barnett (or other) spring plate and pressure plate?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 07:38 PM |
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You dont actually need to drain the oil on the R1 when taking the clutch cover off, as the oil level lower than the clutch cover.
If you want to get the Barnett bits, Fluke Motorsport seem to be about the cheapest, although sadly one
of the guys who runs it had a motorbike accident yesterday so it may be harder to get hold of them than they otherwise would be.
As to whats best, Im not sure. Mines currently running OEM frictions with the barnett spring conversion and its really good, although some people
swear by the Barnett carbon frictions over the OEM ones.
Chris
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smart51
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 07:46 PM |
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That'll save me some oil then.
Is the original spring now useless or can it be popped back into shape. I'm thinking so that I can set the clutch pedal stop.
My local yamaha dealer is worse than useless so it may be easier to get hold of aftermarket plates.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 07:54 PM |
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I would think it will be OK once pinged back.
I think all Yam dealers are useless, either that or the two Honda ones I used to deal with were exceptional. The Yam dealers never seem to stock
anything, and when you want it ordered in it takes 3 days for them to get anything in! A few months ago I called and asked them for about 5 mostly
service items, they only had two of them in so I asked them to order me in the other bits and I would collect later in the week. They did this but
forgot to put the other bits aside for me, so when I went to pick the stuff up they'd sold out of two of the other bits I wanted that they
originally had in stock!
The other day I had another one, all I wanted was to order one of the little o-rings that seals the sump to the water pump drain pipe, they wanted
advance payment over the phone for 50p's worth of o-ring and said they probably couldnt get the part number off the microfiche anyway so I was
best off taking the old o-ring in for them to look at! 
[Edited on 21/10/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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Ferrino
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 09:43 PM |
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quote:
I have fitted a clutch pedal stop but haven't yet set it
Apparently a cable throw of approx 12mm is optimal for full disengagement, while not 'over-pulling'.
[Edited on 21/10/05 by Ferrino]
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Bob C
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 11:08 PM |
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Isn't this a "rite of passage" for R1 BEC makers? The "classic" richard miles site (strikerR1 something) has a detailed
description of this (I don't think it was the diaphragm going over-centre...) - dismantle then - er - mantle the clutch properly & reduce
the lever throw!
cheers
Bob
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smart51
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| posted on 22/10/05 at 07:47 PM |
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Loosened the clutch bolts this morning and the spring just popped back into shape. The clutch friction plates are all 2.8mm thick which is below the
service minimum. Perhaps it was as well that the spring popped as the clutch needed changing.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 22/10/05 at 07:52 PM |
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Bob, Rich's website is now at http://striker.r-one.co.uk
[Edited on 22/10/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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Coose
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| posted on 24/10/05 at 07:50 AM |
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Ferrino is right - you need 12mm of linear cable action(!) as per the bike.... 
(I wonder where you got that from!?  )
Spin 'er off Well...
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