AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 12:31 PM |
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tread plate floor
I've got some nice ali tread plate to use as my floor. I'm going to bond it with polyurethane adhesive and rivet as is the norm.
The plate is 2mm thick with treads standing perhaps another 2mm proud of the surface. Do I glue and rivet this straight on the same as a flat ali
floor (and use enough adhesive to fill up the gap)? Or do I need to grind off the treads along the lines of the chassis tubes so that there is a flush
mating surface between the floor and the tubes?
Grinding off the treads would be quite a lot of ballache so I'm hoping I can stick it straight on... just not sure if that will give me a strong
enough bond.
TIA
Adam
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 12:36 PM |
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what is it patterned on both sides?
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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andrew-theasby
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 12:38 PM |
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It is a ballache, ive done it, i found 9" grinder with slitting disc best tool for the job, most other things just clog up or melt the alloy.
It is obviously the best way to do it, but whether its necessary or not, i wouldnt like to say. I suppose you could shear rivets if there was a gap,
but does the chassis really flex that much??
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jacko
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 12:40 PM |
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As you say it will be a big job grinding it just sikaflex /tiger sealer / and rivets then put a beed around the inside to finish off
Jacko
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RazMan
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 12:48 PM |
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Personally I would grind the mating surface flat to make sure of a good contact area - otherwise you might find that the panel distorts due to the
differing gaps when you nip up the rivets
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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indykid
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 01:00 PM |
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if you're bothered about the structural rigidity, why are you using chequer plate?
just get plenty of sika on so you don't get any water ingress.
tom
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ReMan
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 01:21 PM |
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Cut off enough to fit in the footwell and sell on the rest.Buy a noce smoothe piece for the floor save a load of bother. Fit the pieces into the
footwell on top.
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:04 PM |
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The floor adds significant stiffness to the chassis. I would imagine if you don't grind the treads off and have a thick layer of PU a lot of
this benefit will be lost.
Someone once told me the diamond discs for grinding stone are good on ali, no experience myslef though so might be bull!
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coozer
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:08 PM |
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Just mark where the chassis will touch and hammer it flat. The sikaflex will then touch 100%
Grinding will remove metal and weaken it off.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by indykid
if you're bothered about the structural rigidity, why are you using chequer plate?
What does that mean? Are you saying that tread plate is generally not as strong as "normal" ali sheet? (Or are you suggesting I should use
steel?)
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kb58
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:23 PM |
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I think that he means that the raised patterns make it impossible (without modification) to be securely fastened. Because of that, much of its
strength will be lost.
I agree it's structurally better to use regular aluminum for the floor, reserving smaller pieces of the tread plate for where you want it
pretty.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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iank
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:31 PM |
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A flap disk will remove the treads quickly and more neatly than a grinding disc (and without risk of a disc exploding due to aluminium contamination -
rare but nasty).
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:50 PM |
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As Ian said, never use grinding discs on soft metals (ali, copper etc), they can explode, with dire consequences.
Flap wheels or power files.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 02:57 PM |
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OK thanks everyone for confirming my thoughts... I've already ordered a stock of flap discs so will get these on to the job. 
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 03:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kb58
I think that he means that the raised patterns make it impossible (without modification) to be securely fastened. Because of that, much of its
strength will be lost.
But that is exactly what the whole thread is about?
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MikeR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 06:25 PM |
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daft question - couldn't you silkaflex the panels on and then drill / rivet where the tops of the checker plate touch the chassis?
Surely that is identical to normal riveting ali as you're bonding a touching bit with the chassis + you've got the silkaflex helping hold
it on & the added strength of the pattern in the ali plate?
Or have i missed something damned obvious like usual?
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leto
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 06:59 PM |
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No you haven't missed anything obvious, it's complexed, hard to explain and the few how know anything on the subject usually stay away
from threads like this, because the facts are so uncomfortable you rather not hear them. If you want something that works structurally, welded in a
steel floor.
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 09:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
daft question - couldn't you silkaflex the panels on and then drill / rivet where the tops of the checker plate touch the chassis?
Surely that is identical to normal riveting ali as you're bonding a touching bit with the chassis + you've got the silkaflex helping hold
it on & the added strength of the pattern in the ali plate?
Or have i missed something damned obvious like usual?
Sounds reasonable to me... the rivets would be fine like that. Just wasn't sure if the PU needs to be squeezed into a thin layer in order to
work properly?
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ReMan
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 10:21 PM |
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I can't believe you'd go to so much trouble, when theres so little difference in price.
By the time youve worn out your drill and 10 flapwheels you may as well have saved 1/2 a days work, no?
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AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 10:28 PM |
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ReMan, I don't follow... difference in price between what and what?
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ReMan
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 10:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdamR
ReMan, I don't follow... difference in price between what and what?
2 mm alloy treadplate and 2 mm plain sheet/plate
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AdamR
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| posted on 3/3/08 at 10:45 PM |
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Aha. Well I got the sheet of treadplate for next to nothing off of ebay some time ago. Therefore it would get significantly more expensive if I went
and bought a plain sheet for the job.
Plus I want the treadplate effect and I don't like the idea of using two bits of metal where one will do.
Plus an hour in the garage wearing out my tools is my idea of fun. 
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Benonymous
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| posted on 4/3/08 at 11:30 AM |
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Good for you Adam!
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MKMike
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| posted on 4/3/08 at 07:06 PM |
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Another couple of points about thread plate is, when the nice shiny surface wears off it looks crap and is hard to clean or shine up again, also it is
very hard to get a neat seal around the inside of the car.
Believe me I have had to try to clean sealer off thread plate in cold rooms and it's not pretty.
Stick to the plain sheet and put a bit of the thread plate in at you feet if you like the look!!
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 08:47 AM |
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Tend to agree with using a flat Ali sheet, then a small section of you plate where you want it..
The plate you have is so pricey I would sell what you don't need should more than cover the cost of the new sheet...
Dan
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