MK9R
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 06:31 AM |
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Slowly overheating on track
Cars is great on road and done a few good journeys (including sitting in a big traffic jam) with the water temp never going above 80. But on track the
temperature slowly rises until i have to stop (after 10mins) as the temp is hitting 100 degs. I tried running with the bonnet off which increased the
session time by a couple of minutes, i also disconnected the bleed hose at the top of the rad and ran for a few minutes to try and ensure there was an
airlock. I am guesing i need a bigger rad, i'm not sure what is in there at themoment but it only looks like a single core.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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Guinness
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 06:42 AM |
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IMHO the engine will be working a lot harder on the track than on the road.
Have you tried "water wetter"? It might help bring the temp down a bit.
Is you rad shrouded? I fitted ally all around mine over the winter, which now forces all the air coming in through the nose cone to go through the
rad, rather than spill round the side / over the top. That has brought average water temps down by about 5C.
Only downside is that the oil cooler is now not so efficient, so I need to relocate that as my next mod!
HTH
Mike
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procomp
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 06:54 AM |
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Hi i take it when you refer to it being a single core item. You mean it is a brass copper type rad rather than a plastic alloy one like the Polo
ect.
If so the only brass copper type ones that work for the aplication are the type that are available from ST/ARIES for instance which are not just STD
type cores but either the older ofset 3 core or later 2 core jobs but all with the higher number of gills per inch. Unlike the simalar STD core ones
available from some suppliers. Worth checking if it is a copper brass type one.
Cheers Matt
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MK9R
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 07:49 AM |
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I'll gp through the receipts tonight and try and find out what the rad exactly is.
I can't see shrouding the rad will help as its such a tight fit in the nose cone (rad is layed back at about 10 degrees) i can't see where
the air can go.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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RazMan
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 09:15 AM |
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I have heard of several people benefitting from Water Wetter in this situation so it would be my first try. Failing that it looks like a deeper rad
might be called for, or have you considered an electric water pump?
[Edited on 28-4-08 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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worX
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 11:39 AM |
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The radiator leaning back 10 degrees definitely won't be helping your situation.
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by MK9R
I'll gp through the receipts tonight and try and find out what the rad exactly is.
I can't see shrouding the rad will help as its such a tight fit in the nose cone (rad is layed back at about 10 degrees) i can't see where
the air can go.
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MK9R
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 11:20 AM |
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Found a receipt, the rad fitted is the standard 3 core supplied by ST, Just spoke to Dave at Aries (new sellers of tehh ST), and its still the same
unit being used and they have never suffered from this, so its obviously not the rad. So its got to be:-
- Incorrectly piped
- Head gasket problem
- Airlock
- blockage/restriction
- waterpump is on the way out
I was thinking of fitting an electric waterpump to see if it cured it. Trouble i can't test it until i'm on track, and then i've
spent money on a trtackday i can't use fully!
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 11:32 AM |
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Do you have any mesh in the front of the nose? If so, make sure it's more than 90% holes.
I used to have overheating problems because I had expanded ali mesh - when I replaced it with far more open stuff my car was far cooler.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 11:51 AM |
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Is the fan infront or behind the rad ?
Move it behind if infront.
Check out what I did regards hole in bonnet/nosecone and duct some of the air out, my temps are now to low so have had to alter things to get them up
a little, have not found the need to re fit fan either.
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MK9R
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 11:57 AM |
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Has got a plastic mesh, buts its very open, may remove it though to see if it helps.
Fan is behind the rad.
What did you do Jon, where is the info 
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 07:48 PM |
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Out of interest, do you know what you're oil temperature is doing on track? Around 10 mins is the sort of time it takes to start overheating oil
if it's marginal on cooling, and its likely that that the oil is getting a lot higher than it ever does on the road so it's possible the
water temp is following it because everything is simply hotter, so you may even find that an oil cooler fixes/helps the issue.
[Edited on 30/4/08 by ChrisGamlin]
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MK9R
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| posted on 1/5/08 at 09:49 AM |
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Been thinking exactly the same thing chris. I've got an oil tempo gauge, but its not plumbed in yet. I really need to get it up and running.
I'm wondering if i over filled the engine a little too much with oil, causing the oil to overheat.
Also been wondering how good my water temp guage is, is it accurate??? Its a green gauges one, with the correct (i assume) sender. I wish i had a
set of zx9r clocks, then i could plug the original temp sender in thats still fitted to the engine. One thing i don't like is that the temp
sender is in the top hose coming out of the rad, it should be in the block, or at least in the lower hose of the rad so that i get a true coolant
temperature in the engine.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 1/5/08 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
One thing i don't like is that the temp sender is in the top hose coming out of the rad, it should be in the block, or at least in
the lower hose of the rad so that i get a true coolant temperature in the engine.
Am I reading this correctly ?
If so then IMHO you have plumbed the rad in the wrong way around and this would not help the situation, hot water like air rises, the top hose should
be from the engine, bottom return ?
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MK9R
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| posted on 1/5/08 at 10:22 AM |
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I didn't build it, so maybe i've looked at it the wrong way round, i'll check tonight. The guy who built it did a good job, so i
assume its my mistake.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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RazMan
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| posted on 1/5/08 at 10:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
If so then IMHO you have plumbed the rad in the wrong way around and this would not help the situation, hot water like air rises, the top hose should
be from the engine, bottom return ?
I have to agree - ideally the sender needs to be in the block, failing that, in the top hose (the hot side of the engine)
You can easily check the calibration of the temp sender by using an infra red equipped multimeter - you will probably find the actual engine temp
(inside the block) is about 10 degrees hotter than the top hose.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MK9R
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| posted on 9/5/08 at 08:53 AM |
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went out for over an hour last night, i drove the car as fast as i dared on the road, it was a hot evening and it never went above 80 degs!!
Going to remove the thermostat, replace fluids (oil and water) and go to my next trackday with fingers crossed! 
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 9/5/08 at 12:28 PM |
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If your replacing fluids chuck some "water wetter" in, it works.
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MK9R
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| posted on 9/5/08 at 12:30 PM |
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I'll order some, doing lots at once won't tell me what the problem was (if it works), but if it sorts it out i don't give a sh*t
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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