Siduna
|
| posted on 9/8/12 at 05:46 PM |
|
|
The reason I decided to use twin chains is based on recommendations from the agent but also from the technical dept at the chain manufacturer.
It's one of the major players in high performance chains so I feel pretty confident in their statement. It's always possible to go back to
single chain should it not work.
While you guys in the UK have full confidence in a single chain, people in other countries have not .... got me a bit puzzled to say the least ...
better chains or car builders in the UK.
I finally reached out to one of the main chain manufacturers and got the advice from their technical manager... never thought I'd get a reply at
all.
What I did then was to buy a "heavy duty" countershaft from APE Racing in the US. Currently I'm having adapters made, wire cutting
the splines in the adapter shaft-sprocket, and the splines in the sprockets. The inner most sprocket will be closer to the engine housing than
original (don't remember the exact dimension) and the outer with a c-c of roughly 27mm (chain clearance) on the outside. The result is that
I'll extend the "bending arm" giving the bending momentum on the countershaft only by a couple of mm. The stronger shaft should,
with margin, be strong enough to deal with the extended bending load. Having the splines made with wire cutting allows for extreme tolerances, which I
think is key to get this working.
I'll keep you posted on progress! Will take some time before it's tested on the road though since the car isn't built yet ...
hopefully I can get you guys to push me to finish it (if you're curious enough on the twin chain setup)?
From what I've heard the concept I'm building isn't that common (at least in Sweden) so there's not much bolt-on for me.
I'm looking at building something like a "Dytona DP Corvettish" two seater with a middy Hayabusa with a rotating muffler (turbo). So
I guess I'll get a chanse to practise carbon/glass fibre molding...
Current status is that I've done simulations on suspension geometry, bought spindles, hubs and drive shafts from a Mazda Miata. Next step is to
make a "mock up" of the seats, pedals and stearing to be able to determine the space required to fit myself and a passanger. So
you'll have to wait a bit for a test report of twin chain drive ... at least xx months..
By the way, I'll be using a Torsendiff from a Toyota Celica GT4 (-91). Anyone's got any experience from such a thing?
[Edited on 9/8/12 by Siduna]
[Edited on 9/8/12 by Siduna]
Writing with a broken pencil is pointless
|
|
|
|
|
Chet
|
| posted on 9/8/12 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the info.
It's always interesting to me to see how and why someone take a specific approach to resolve a design issue.
I've been involved with both front and rear engined Hayabusa powered cars here in the USA for about 10 years and I'm still learning from
others.
Hopefully the HD shaft will handle the increased load without a problem.
One suggestion -You may want to consider designing the car to have enough physical space for a future turbo but just use a standard Hayabusa engine
initially.
I'ts been my experience that a 190 HP Hayabusa in a lightweight car will provide more performance than you will believe. A standard engine will
also greatly simplify your build and get you on the track / road much sooner.
Chet
Hayabusa powered J15
1000 lbs
0-60 mph in 3.1
|
|
|
Siduna
|
| posted on 10/8/12 at 06:13 AM |
|
|
Thanks for your input!
Since I'm still at the start of my project and whether or not I'll fit a turbo onto the engine many moons will pass before it will
influence my project time wise. Either way I'll make sure there's space enought to fit turbo and intercooler.
Writing with a broken pencil is pointless
|
|
|
