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Author: Subject: It's finally happened
locodude

posted on 23/3/03 at 07:56 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Jasper
Checked it out today with a quick test-fit. You guys are right, looks like 50mm off the bottom for me. Martin agrees and I'll get it done in the week some time. I know you were going to baffle it also, what did you do and where did you put the baffles?
I think the exhaust will have to come out of the side also. I have the original headers so we'll make one up from them. A man not a million miles from me has some tubing and a bender! Regarding the air filter, I'm going to try to use the original air box but mounted semi-remotely as I also know a man who can weld polypropelene! Chop out the mounting flange, turn the airbox upside down, join together with some fabricated trunking et voila (ish). If there's enough room anyway. I'll let you know how I get on. Engine should be fitted this week with a bit of luck, just need to chop a chassis rail to allow room for the oil filter, drill a few rivets out and were away.
Cheers lads

[Edited on 23/3/03 by locodude]






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Wadders

posted on 23/3/03 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
Personally i don't think you need baffles as such, all iv'e done with mine is chop off the bit that sticks up from the bottom of the original sump (around the pick up strainer) and weld it back on to the new flat sump bottom.
Shit thats hard to put in words, but really obvious when you hacksaw through the sump.
Rather than chop the chassis
could you not mount the oil filter remoteley?


ATB

wadders


]Originally posted by locodude
Hi Jasper
Checked it out today with a quick test-fit. You guys are right, looks like 50mm off the bottom for me. Martin agrees and I'll get it done in the week some time. I know you were going to baffle it also, what did you do and where did you put the baffles?
I think the exhaust will have to come out of the side also. I have the original headers so we'll make one up from them. A man not a million miles from me has some tubing and a bender! Regarding the air filter, I'm going to try to use the original air box but mounted semi-remotely as I also know a man who can weld polypropelene! Chop out the mounting flange, turn the airbox upside down, join together with some fabricated trunking et voila (ish). If there's enough room anyway. I'll let you know how I get on. Engine should be fitted this week with a bit of luck, just need to chop a chassis rail to allow room for the oil filter, drill a few rivets out and were away.
Cheers lads

[Edited on 23/3/03 by locodude]

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locodude

posted on 23/3/03 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
Hi
I've seen the pics of a chopped sump and me and MK agree with you. I'll probably get the sump off tommorow and give it to martin to chop. As for the chassis rail it's no sweat really as it can be triangulated around it and as I've said the car is at MK so everything is at hand. Also not forgetting the engine will be solidly mounted, adding stiffness to the chassis. I've seen a couple of ST zxers and the engine sits really high in the chassis. The pics of Alex roebucks car show the oil filter above the lower chassis rail. ST must not have chopped the sumps on theirs, it shows because the carbs just stick thru' the bonnet. I tried my bonnet today and it just wont fit (by about 20mm), so a 50mm chop is on the cards.
Cheers






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Jasper

posted on 24/3/03 at 10:29 AM Reply With Quote
Baffle: you probably dont need to but I recon it can only help. I used a piece of thin aircraft grade ali (hard) and just sandwiched it between sump and block, with holes cut out for oil pick-up and the flexi pipe return. Very simple and quick to make, just needed an extra gasket (£8!)

BTW: If your gonna mount an oil pressure gauge rather than just a switch the chaps at EB Instruments recon it's best to remote mount then due to the high frequency vibration of the bike engine.

And it you want a copy of the cooling pipe diagram lay-out (though you chaps probably dont need it!) then check out the Yahoo list.

Let me know what happens with your airbox move - fancy making 2???

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locodude

posted on 24/3/03 at 07:33 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Jasp
I cut the bottom off the sump today (with a very handy tilt bed band saw) and it loses quite a bit of capacity so I'm going to weld a 'box' to the side of it as well to keep the capacity the same. What have you guys done about the pick up pipe? I thought I may make one out of steel pipe the same dia. so I could still use the existing rubber seal, thats if it's too short to chop. Bloody glass filled plastic, I can't weld that
I'll see what happens with the airbox but I think it's going to be a tight fit. I've had a test fit and if I can extend it from the the carb inlet but keeping it no higher than the top corner of the carbs then we're on to a winner. It just means the airbox will be upside down.






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Wadders

posted on 24/3/03 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
Ey up Chris
shortened my pickup by cutting a section out of the middle and sticking the two halves back together with sikaflex,when that was dry i ran a fillet of sikaflex all the way round, i'm just hoping the oil dont melt the stuff.
Good idea about the extra box welded on, never thought of that.

ATB

wadders

]Originally posted by locodude
Hi Jasp
I cut the bottom off the sump today (with a very handy tilt bed band saw) and it loses quite a bit of capacity so I'm going to weld a 'box' to the side of it as well to keep the capacity the same. What have you guys done about the pick up pipe? I thought I may make one out of steel pipe the same dia. so I could still use the existing rubber seal, thats if it's too short to chop. Bloody glass filled plastic, I can't weld that
I'll see what happens with the airbox but I think it's going to be a tight fit. I've had a test fit and if I can extend it from the the carb inlet but keeping it no higher than the top corner of the carbs then we're on to a winner. It just means the airbox will be upside down.

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locodude

posted on 24/3/03 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
If I were to do that then I'd put a sleeve on the inside to make sure. At least when it's trapped between the sump pan and pick-up inlet it couldn't go anwhere even if the Sikaflex broke down. If it were sleeved and the cut was clean then an 'o' ring would do as a seal. Just a thought.






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Jasper

posted on 25/3/03 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
My chap who chopped mine did the same, just cut the mid section out, turned down one end slighty so it was a nice tight fit, then glued it as well. Don't know what glue he used, but he's a race car engineer so I trust it will be fine. I didn't think the oil loss would be very much, but it can only be a good idea to add the extyra back in. Have you re-welded the sump plug on the side - a very good idea to stop it getting knocked off
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ChrisGamlin

posted on 25/3/03 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
Im not sure sikaflex will be up to the job to be honest, I'd think you ideally need something a little more permanent and solid than that, as Sikaflex is primarily designed as a sealant rather than a glue. I'm not sure what John used on yours Jasper, I would imagine something like Araldite or a Loctite product. Once the sump is in situ though, the pickup is held in position by the sump, so shouldnt be any worries of it coming away.

Chris

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Jasper

posted on 25/3/03 at 02:53 PM Reply With Quote
Araldite springs to mind, but I may be wrong, I often am! But it certainly can't go anywhere anyway

[Edited on 25/3/03 by Jasper]

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locodude

posted on 25/3/03 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
As an ex-adhesives salesman I know that glass filled plastics are notoriously difficult to bond together, I doubt very much wether it would be a permanent solution. I think the machining/sleeving idea is the best as like has been said the pickup is trapped anyway!
Jasper, I'm going to weld the sump plug on the side (not much done today, v.hectic day!)
p.s. where's the best place for a sump gasket?






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chrisg

posted on 25/3/03 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

p.s. where's the best place for a sump gasket?



Between the sump and the engine.

Cheers

Chris





Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!

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Jon Ison

posted on 25/3/03 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
swine, just wot i was gonna put.....






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Jasper

posted on 25/3/03 at 07:38 PM Reply With Quote
Oh - just too easy....

Get if from your nearest Kawasaki dealer, your gonna need to make friends anyway, oil filter, plugs etc....

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locodude

posted on 25/3/03 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
Oooh you're all soooo helpfull!






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locodude

posted on 25/3/03 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
Anyhoo mr gibbs what are you doing lurking on OUR part of the list eh, you with your big old boat anchor of an engine, you don't know quality engineering when you see it






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chrisg

posted on 25/3/03 at 09:22 PM Reply With Quote
Ahhhhhh vely solly,

Locodude san.

Flied Lice with that?

Ahso

Clis





Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!

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locodude

posted on 25/3/03 at 11:56 PM Reply With Quote
Oh, very droll, especially the new Avatar. I'd have replied earlier only I've been to the pub, you know, they serve beer? Gets you out of the house you know.
See you tomorrow big guy!






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Ninja

posted on 1/4/03 at 10:15 AM Reply With Quote
I've just finished the same conversion go for it. If you want any pictures etc let me know.
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