bassett
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 10:48 PM |
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R1 Clutch
Hi, something pinged when depressing my clutch pedal tonight and the clutch cable became slack. Cable seemed fine so thought it must be the R1's
Clutch. I removed the cover to find this
Just to check the centre piece in the centre of the clutch should move around alot? I think this is what has dislocated on using the pedal so has
anyone got tips to reattach it assuming its ok and how many turns should we do?
Cheers
Adam
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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A1
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| posted on 7/1/09 at 10:59 PM |
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yes, thats okay. i think you may have inverted the spring plate. see the dark plate held on by six bolts and a ring? its outer edge should push onto
the casing.
when you engage the clutch, the toothed stem pulls the spring plate centre out, and takes pressure off the plates behind it...
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 12:08 AM |
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Yep as A1 says. The diaphram spring has overcentred due to the clutch pulling too much cable.
- Jim
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smart51
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 08:17 AM |
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I did that on my first trip out. Take off the spring and pop it back into shape and refit. Fit a clutch pedal stop to prevent you from doing it
again.
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bassett
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 09:33 AM |
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Sorry guys im going to sound a bit dumb but i dont completely understand multiplate clutches yet so what do i need to do? remove the plate with the 6
bolts and put back into shape and refit?
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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nstrug
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 10:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bassett
Sorry guys im going to sound a bit dumb but i dont completely understand multiplate clutches yet so what do i need to do? remove the plate with the 6
bolts and put back into shape and refit?
Yes, remove the 6 bolts and the clamping ring. The spring plate should then slide off. You can then flip it back (pushing with thumbs on the spring
fingers), or, I _think_, just turn it over (not sure about this one though).
When you put the clamping ring and bolts back on, you should find that the spring plate is now clamping the clutch and friction plates together.
The clutch release (the little thing with a rack on it that engages with the clutch activation arm) will still be loose - this is normal.
Getting the clutch cover back on is a pain as the clutch release droops and so doesn't completely align with gear in the cover - I use a piece
of wire looped round the relase and through the oil filler hole to keep it level as I put the cover back on.
If you upgrade to a Barnett plate and springs, you lose the spring plate (the Barnett plate uses coil springs) and this won't happen.
Also, your oil level looks a little low. You probably want to overfill a bit (to the top of the sightglass).
Nick
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nstrug
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 10:44 AM |
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I should add that the clutch bolts need to be done up to 8 Nm. Also, the release rod needs to be aligned so that the teeth point to the rear of the
engine to engage correctly with the pinion on activation arm. i.e. rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise from where it is in the photo.
Torque for the clutch cover bolts is 12Nm and you may want to replace the gasket at the same time.
Let me know if you want a pdf of the workshop manual.
Nick
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stuart_g
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 10:45 AM |
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If the cause of your problem is that the clutch lever moved too far over centre due to too much pedal travel you may want to make some adjustable
pedal stops as I did. This way you can set the angle of the clutch pedal to suit you and also limit the amount of movement.
You can also see the pedal stop/adjuster for the throttle pedal in the same pic.
 
Rescued attachment Clutch pedal stops.JPG
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bassett
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 11:18 AM |
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our clutch seems to press down till it hits a point where it stops and we havent ever gone further so i assume it was ok but yes there is a gap
between pedal and bulk head and my dad might have pushed it too far when trying to get it out of gear.
[Edited on 8/1/09 by bassett]
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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Kriss
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 05:12 PM |
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do you want to come round and check mine out Adam? Can get the front up in the air for you so you can compare set ups if it helps?
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nstrug
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 05:14 PM |
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Adam (and anyone else)
R1 5PW Service Manual available here: http://www.torrentbox.com/download/348013/R15PW-service-manual.pdf.torrent
I'll leave it seeding overnight.
Cheers,
Nick
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bassett
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| posted on 8/1/09 at 08:15 PM |
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Hi got it all off and have managed to fix it. Problem was not overcentred clutch spring plate. Left spring plate as it was with fingers face out(away
from gearbox - to front of car) the problem was the stem in the centre must have popped off. Replacing the cover with the stem inserted and winding it
on with the lever (spring not on lever) it engaged properly. The case then pushes on correctly and when winding the clutch lever further it pops back
now it is important to not let it pop back off so tension must be placed on it whilst re attaching the spring then the cable can be re attached and
for us all was good.
Thanks for the help chaps
Adam
[Edited on 11/1/09 by bassett]
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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