Blackbird
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 posted on 22/1/09 at 02:38 AM |
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R1 offset mounting / angle mounting?
Hey folks -
I'm building a LHD locost racecar (in the US) running 05 R1 motor.
Since the motor needs to move to the right to clear the frame and steering column the prop shaft will be a 2 piece affair with a pillow block in the
middle.
My question is, has anyone ever mounted the motor in an angle?
Meaning not parallel to the centerline of the car but angled in the way the diagram shows.
This will be helpful in a few ways.
First off, it reduces the angle in the middle of the shaft (from about 7 degrees to 5) because it moves the output shaft towards the center of the
car.
It also clears a bit more space for the steering column to go through.
Has this ever been done before?
Moti
 
Rescued attachment R1offset.jpg
A wise man said - don't count your years, make your years count!
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Or was it beers?
Either way, it's a pretty good advice.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 22/1/09 at 07:58 AM |
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There is a general rule that the mounting face for the Diff flange and the mounting face for the sprocket (adaptor) flange should be parallel, but I
have seen quite a few engines mounted in the way that you suggested!
ATB
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ReMan
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| posted on 22/1/09 at 08:03 AM |
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Exactly as Steve says.
Generally toted that parralel faces are theoretically better.
But as long as the angles are sensible, it is possible to do this without any noticeable issues
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Blackbird
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| posted on 23/1/09 at 08:17 AM |
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Okay, I'll go with parallel to centerline.
I can get it to about 7 degrees angle, would that be considered sensible?
Thanks!
Moti
A wise man said - don't count your years, make your years count!
.
.
.
Or was it beers?
Either way, it's a pretty good advice.
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Tralfaz
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 01:04 PM |
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What you are considering can and has been done. Generally U joint cancelling is done by keeping all mating faces parallel as was mentioned, but
cancelling occurs anytime the angle at each end are the same.
So if your motor were to be installed 5 degrees off centerline, your driveshaft could start back at 2.5 degrees meet the center joint and continue
back on centerline.
Motor at 5 degrees
Joint at motor 2.5 degrees
Joint at center bearing 2.5 degrees
Joint at diff between 0 and 0.5 degrees
T
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r1bob
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| posted on 1/2/09 at 09:35 PM |
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just thought i would add my 2 pence worth of knowledge! i've not long bought my motor, knowing it had a lot of vibration, and some weird
clanking noises coming from around the prop area. Turned out the prop was to long, as it was , it was mounted the best way it would fit!! Took the
prop in to be shortened by 20mm, balanced and generally checked over, Any way what im getting at is the guy who sorted prop told me to mount the
first half of the prop (off the gear box flange) as square as you can (imagine it's an extension of the gearbox flange) get that right and i
think you will be somewhere near, mines sorted now and the rear half of the prop run's off at an angle to the diff( by the way the diff flange
is tilted at an angle not the same as the gear box flange) hope this help's
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