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Author: Subject: Fireblade Engine Temperature Sender
Hellfire

posted on 23/2/04 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
Fireblade Engine Temperature Sender

Does anyone have a spare Fireblade engine temperature sender unit for an RRS. If so please let us know.

PS. Posted in this section as well as Wanted section cos it is BEC specific






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scotlad
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 23/2/04 at 01:26 PM Reply With Quote
if you're referring to the screw in sender that goes into the head, my old ones lying in the garden- from a 1994 engine- but it might do- you can have it for free if you want it- i'll email you a pic if you want. it still works fine as far as i know- i got a new one with new gauges.

[Edited on 23/2/04 by scotlad]

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 23/2/04 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
Let me guess, you tried to take it out and it sheared off?
For that reason I dont think you'll find many people will have a spare. Best thing to do if the Honda dealer cant supply one is to put a conventional inline temperature sender into the cooling system somewhere.

Chris






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Hellfire

posted on 23/2/04 at 07:32 PM Reply With Quote
Chris - we haven't got that far yet!

We know it's the sender as the reading goes straight to H when ignition on - previously it worked.

Having said that - what's the odds on it shearing when we try to remove it?

Fingers crossed!






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Brooky

posted on 23/2/04 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
the loctite honda use is located next to super glue on the periodic table.
The trick is to get the engine temp up to running temp and then loosen the sender.
Or do as I did and completely remove the sender sending a spout of 70 degree water 8 ft in the air.

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Brooky

posted on 24/2/04 at 12:05 AM Reply With Quote
just had a thought !
Are you using the original gauge or aftermarket ?
Is the output range of the sender out of the gauge's input range ?

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scotlad
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 24/2/04 at 09:44 AM Reply With Quote
mine came out really easy once carbs etc out the way- just used a deep socket.maybe been replaced before???
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ChrisGamlin

posted on 24/2/04 at 11:17 AM Reply With Quote
They do have a tendancy to shear when you try to extract them because they are made of thin brass and as Brooky says, seemingly superglue'd in. It was something I was warned about by Ian Gray so I left mine well alone but Ive known at least two people shear them off whilst being inquisitive.
If it does shear then its usually easiest to just leave the remains in the hole so its still sealed and put in an aftermarket sender elsewhere, cos it will be a 'mare to get it all out without drilling out and removing the head to clear away the mess.

Chris






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Hellfire

posted on 24/2/04 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
Scotlad, you have U2U

Chris, thanx for the info. We'll definitely bear it in mind






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scotlad
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 24/2/04 at 01:46 PM Reply With Quote
its on its way!!!!!!!!!
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