ReMan
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 10:09 AM |
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Fireblade oil pressure gauge
How easy to fit an oil pressure gauge to an 893 firblade engine?
Got the Mallory trackday coming up in September and whilst I've never had a problem yet, I'm just slightly nervous about this one
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 10:38 AM |
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Hi, very.
Best place to take off is bottom front right of engine as you stand at front of car looking towards the back, I'm guessing your oil light switch
is already down there ? Its straight into the main oil gallery there.
Are you thinking mechanical or electrical ?
edit to add, just noticed Mallory ? Fit one Gerrards is the only corner I have ever seen a fluctuation in oil pressure when I had the blade engine
fitted, it reminded me I had forgot to turn the accusump on.
[Edited on 15/8/09 by Jon Ison]
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 12:16 PM |
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Was thinking something like this (locost).
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=LMASWG506
No good,?
Hoping I might have a baffle plate in by then but other than that it's bog standard.
Not using 888's , just Proxes TIr/s.
Just rather not make it go bang if possible 
[Edited on 15/8/09 by ReMan]
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 01:18 PM |
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Personally I would spend a little more and go for something that should be a bit more accurate.
Gauge aside the biggest in your face light you can fit on the dash linked to a higher than standard switch, eg, comes on at 15/20 psi rather than the
normal 5-8ish will be easier to spot than watch a gauge.
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 01:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
Personally I would spend a little more and go for something that should be a bit more accurate.
Gauge aside the biggest in your face light you can fit on the dash linked to a higher than standard switch, eg, comes on at 15/20 psi rather than the
normal 5-8ish will be easier to spot than watch a gauge.
I had wondered about that, sound like a good idea if I can get the bits easy enough (sender)
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 05:05 PM |
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The oil pressure take off/sender position is a bit shielded by the clutch housing, I got an electric gauge but cannot fit the sender, should have got
a capillery one.
The oil switch is tapped into a big nut, easy to get a car higher pressure sender from Ebay and tap this nut to fit.
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GreigM
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 07:15 PM |
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I recently fitted an oil pressure gauge to my blade engine..it was a smiths telemetrix with matching sensor.
The first thing to consider is that you probably want to keep the pressure switch, so you need to consider how you get oil pressure devices into that
single hole where the switch currently sits.
The way I see it you have 2 options:
1. Fit a t-piece to the hole in the engine and screw in the switch and a length of hose to feed your gauge/sender.
2. Fit a length of hose directly to the engine and attach the t-piece to this and then the switch and sender (or another piece of hose to the gauge)
to the t-piece.
I chose 2 as I was using a pressure sender and not putting a hose to the dash to fit directly to the gauge.
I chose a sender/electric because it gives a more accurate/quicker reading that a hose - as there is a delay in getting the reading the longer the
hose is, and also I didn't fancy the idea of an oil leak behind my dash anytime.
The caveat with 2 is as above - it takes some time to pressurise the hose, so if you are moving the switch away from the engine then it would take
some time from the pressure dropping before the switch noticed this....the longer the hose, the longer the delay. In order to make this delay as
small as possible I kept my hose length to under 9 inches - I find at that length there is no appreciable delay in the readings.
The reason I didn't just fit the t-piece directly to the engine and screw the sender in is not only ease of access, but because bike engines are
notorious for destroying senders with vibration - so you need to "remote" mount the sender.
After blowing an engine on track, I now wouldn't risk tracking a car without an oil pressure gauge.
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/8/09 at 12:45 PM |
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Thanks for the info.
Can someone confirm the thread size I need to screw into the engine, ie the existing switch size?
Is is 1/8" NPT?
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/8/09 at 12:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
The oil pressure take off/sender position is a bit shielded by the clutch housing, I got an electric gauge but cannot fit the sender, should have got
a capillery one.
The oil switch is tapped into a big nut, easy to get a car higher pressure sender from Ebay and tap this nut to fit.
Is it because the sender unit is about twice the size og the existing pressure switch?
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GreigM
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| posted on 16/8/09 at 03:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Thanks for the info.
Can someone confirm the thread size I need to screw into the engine, ie the existing switch size?
Is is 1/8" NPT?
no, 1/8 BSP....
if your switch is like mine it has a rubber cover which you pull back, then simply unscrew the wire connector and remove the wire - then you simply
get a socket on top of the switch and remove.
Be aware when you remove it the oil will start to pour out.
Also, whatever you put back in that hole, the manual says the tightening force is 12Nm (9lb-ft) - any tighter you risk damaging the crankcase
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 16/8/09 at 05:53 PM |
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Sorry Guys, but I'm in total agreement with Jon Ison biggest redest light pos, otherwise you'll spent more time looking at pressure and
not enough time improving lap times and deffo a baffle plate in a blade
tony
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franky
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| posted on 16/8/09 at 06:59 PM |
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I've just got a stack 'pro control' for mine.... it stays red until up to pressure, dial then goes white in operating pressure then
red if above
so bloody bright, like having a 55mm led on your dash. its got tell tale functions too.
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