Steve Hignett
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posted on 24/1/10 at 09:03 PM |
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Help Wanted:- Paddle Shift Bracket problems
Hi All,
I can't for the life of me think of a really, really good solution for the bracket for the paddlechange system on my Locost build...
The steering column is just round tube welded to a UJ at the bottom end of the upper portion and welded to a QR boss?spline at the top.
It is to be held in place by a couple of pillow block bearing (prob plastic) or I will turn some PolyU to the correct int & ext Dims...
(Couple photos below of both those types of joining...)
So, I will not have an inner and outer column similar to most kits out there that use a Sierra or Escort column to be able to clamp something too.
I have a couple of ideas, but not that impressed with them so far, so please any and all suggestions welcome and wanted!!!
Cheers,
Steve
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YQUSTA
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posted on 24/1/10 at 09:13 PM |
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Using the first pic you could have a flat plate under your bracket comming out towards the steering wheel. then you could attach the paddles to that
using rod ends either side of the plate.
on the second pic you could weld a plate across the triangle section below the steering wheel. then extend a flat plate from that towards the steering
wheel and use the same method as above to secure the paddles, add trigulation where the 2 plates meet should get the stiffness required.
Hope this helps
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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Davegtst
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posted on 24/1/10 at 09:16 PM |
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This is how MK do it.
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Richard Quinn
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posted on 24/1/10 at 09:17 PM |
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The DRD one comes forward off the final column support/bracket. Mine has a billet ally part around the column (with bearings in) that is clamped (as
the top bearing part) and the paddle clamps to the outer ally part (not easy to explain in words)
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minitici
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posted on 24/1/10 at 09:45 PM |
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I used a housed bearing and used the outer part of split carrier as the pivot for my paddles.
paddle shift bracket
I welded a piece of 50mm tube to the outer split carrier along with M6 threaded bushes to take the two M6 rod end joints which attach the pivot points
to the paddles.
I have a QR boss welded and pinned to a 25mm OD tube as the top part of my column. The top part is fairly short (about 150mm) and is located in two of
these housed bearings.
Then it goes via two UJ's to the steering rack.
paddleshift
I also have the advantage of adjustability for length of column, just slacken a couple of grub screws on the housed bearings and slide the top column
in or out to the desired distance.
[Edited on 24/1/10 by minitici]
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sucksqueezebangblow
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posted on 25/1/10 at 11:39 AM |
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How about using a tube slid over the top end of the steering column? With a top hat bush in each end, a collar on the top end to mount the paddles and
a bracket on the bottom end to stop it turning with the steering column. That way it is supported by the steering column but does not rotate with it.
Better to Burnout than to Fade Away JET METAL ~ AndySparrow ©
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bigfoot4616
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posted on 25/1/10 at 03:26 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by sucksqueezebangblow
How about using a tube slid over the top end of the steering column? With a top hat bush in each end, a collar on the top end to mount the paddles and
a bracket on the bottom end to stop it turning with the steering column. That way it is supported by the steering column but does not rotate with it.
i've thought about doing something like that. on mine i have about 1" of outer column stuck out from the dash and about 5-6" that
rotates with the steering. just need to work out how to attach the tube at the bottom so it is removable
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Steve Hignett
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posted on 25/1/10 at 08:19 PM |
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That's the only acceptable solution I've thought of so far, a tube of relatively thin S/S with a couple of nuts Tig'd to the drivers
end, and instead of using the uppermost pillow block, use the stainless tube as the top "bush", I still don't 100% like the idea
though, as it could one day create stiction of some sort (maybe not, but maybe...)
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