FFTS
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| posted on 25/5/10 at 09:56 AM |
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Checking zx9r voltage rectifier off car???
Is there a way to check if it working right if the car not running?
Still got melty wires behind the dash and struggling to find the one or more shorts. Question is was it a short that caused the melting and more
shorting or something else first?
I may have to get an auto electrician in to rewire but if something else was the cause will it just happen again? Will an auto electrician be clued up
to know about bike engines as well as the car wiring side of things?
She's driven daily for months with no probs and then after a hard drive one day she sounded rough just before home. Tried to start her 10 mins
later and the smelly smoky stuff happened. Found wires shorted behind the dash but then more and cleared those and still some I cant find. So what
turned a good runner to get upset after a hard drive??
Any volunteers want to visit and enjoy coffee and wiring would be very helpful and appreciated.
I'm at the end of my limited knowledge now so any suggestions about how and who I should get to look at it?
Is there a test I can do on the rectifier on a none running car?
Chris.
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tony-devon
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| posted on 25/5/10 at 10:02 AM |
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yes you can test it off car, cant remember exactly off the top of my head the process, but if no one else has updated by tonight I will sort it out
just need a DVM to test the diodes inside, this is for the rectifier stage, but if you think the problem lies with this unit, then its most likely the
regulator portion thats gone south
you will then have about 20v coming out of it
[Edited on 25/5/10 by tony-devon]
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
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02GF74
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| posted on 25/5/10 at 02:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tony-devon
yes you can test it off car, cant remember exactly off the top of my head the process, but if no one else has updated by tonight I will sort it out
just need a DVM to test the diodes inside, this is for the rectifier stage, but if you think the problem lies with this unit, then its most likely the
regulator portion thats gone south
you will then have about 20v coming out of it
googline shows it to look similar to one I fitted to my Z1000.
it is sealed unit so you will not be able to test the internals but by applying voltage to the input (3 yellow wires from the generator) and measuring
the voltage out - is it DC and within the range.
my advise to you would be to fit a replacement regulator but wire the minimum you need to get the eninge running, either by removing the fuses or by
disconnecting wires.
you need to have the regulator fitted and connected correctly to battery.
you will also need to be able to start the engine.
without knowing your wiring, I would even suggest disconnecting the ignition key and starter and just use wire clipped to the battery, as above, plus
a jump lead to the starter motor solenoid to get it to turn over and fire.
a dvm connect to measure voltage across battery is the only other thing you'd need.
BTW ebay shows a number of similar regulators, from £ 10ish.
3 yellow wires and 2 or three other wires;
[Edited on 25/5/10 by 02GF74]
[Edited on 25/5/10 by 02GF74]
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FFTS
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| posted on 25/5/10 at 02:14 PM |
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Cheapest zx9R I found was £25. Do you have a link for the ones you saw?
Does it HAVE to be a genuine ZX9R unit or will others do the same job? Mine has a single rectangular plug on it.
Chris.
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02GF74
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| posted on 25/5/10 at 02:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FFTS
Does it HAVE to be a genuine ZX9R unit or will others do the same job? Mine has a single rectangular plug on it.
no; that is the beauty as you have a wide choice.
you need to look at the regulator to see if it looks like yours and chose one that is for a bike of at least 500 cc - the electrical requirment for a
4 cylinder bike don't differ a great deal.
and as you say, the plug(s) will differ according to the model so you either find one with same plug or else you need to chop the wires and join them
up, as what I had to do.
only other thing to look out for is that some have 5 or 6 wires: 3 yellow for input from generator, one black 0v; brown 12 V out and red/white* for
battery sense - the last one does not appear on the 5 wire.
* this could be white; I am doing this from memory.
e.g. linky
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