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Author: Subject: Chopped and baffled sump: Opinions
phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
Chopped and baffled sump: Opinions

I've chopped and baffled the sump for the GSXR 1100 engine, as well as made up a baffle plate. Can anyone see any issues before I bolt it onto the car? I've never done anything like this before but I was half copying an old sidecar setup....







Cheers, Adam






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phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 07:56 PM Reply With Quote
Baffle plate:








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tomgregory2000

posted on 13/7/10 at 07:59 PM Reply With Quote
Just my opinion but baffels WITHOUT trap doors is doing half a job and you have reduced the oil capacity which is not good
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phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 08:08 PM Reply With Quote
Here's the sidecar item I had the idea from:








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phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
Just my opinion but baffels WITHOUT trap doors is doing half a job and you have reduced the oil capacity which is not good


I couldnt find any photos of bike sumps with trap doors really, I know its not ideal but better than nothing. It was more to recreate the bowl in the bottom of the sump in which the oil pickup sits.

I realise I have reduced the oil capacity in the sump a little (the bowl on the sump i cut was around half an inch deep), but the oil cooler capacity has increased by a lot more and I'm planning to overfill the engine as well (as recommended by Z-cars and Big-CC).

Picture showing the bowl i cut off the bottom:



[Edited on 13-7-10 by phelpsa]






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matt_gsxr

posted on 13/7/10 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
Adam,

Have you added a drain plug? I see you removed the one that you had.

Just to add some datapoints.


I know my engine is slightly different, but...
At Abingdon I ran the stock sump (which is similar to yours) with a baffle like yours. On this occasion I had a standard oil pressure sensor (10psi perhaps), and it stayed off all day.

At Llandow I ran with a 2inch sidecar billet sump (actually two billet sumps bolted together but the top one had its bottom cut out). I had some baffling (ex-sidecar), and ran a 35psi oil pressure switch. On this occasion the light was coming on going into the bus-stop (this is an extreme of deceleration maybe 100mph down to 20mph), and stayed lit (around some of that bend). I overfilled a bit but I couldn't get rid of it completely. This was confused as I was burning a fair amount of oil.

I don't have any vertical baffles.

I think the problem for me is that under heavy braking the oil flies forward into the clutch area. So I bought an Accusump. I haven't tested with it yet.

I do think a 30psi oil switch with a big bright light is a good idea, the only problem being that it comes on at idle once the oil is warm, which is a bit annoying (though not a problem). It also seems that these engines are fairly robust!

Matt

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matt_gsxr

posted on 13/7/10 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
Oh! I just saw your sump drain.

Matt

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phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks a lot Matt! Where did you get your higher rated pressure switch? I've got an extremely bright oil pressure light directly in front of the driver, but obviously its no use if it doesn't come on until the pressure is dangerously low!






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matt_gsxr

posted on 13/7/10 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
I can't remember, but most of the usual suspects supply them.

merlin_oil_switch

I think you could do cheaper than this one (demon tweeks seem to be cheaper).

I have a gauge and normally the oil sits above 60psi, so 30psi tells me that I am pumping air.

Its worth putting the switch into the main oil gallery. You can get at this by replacing one of the screw in core plugs (M16 thread on mine). This seems to react quicker than the gauge, which is mounted after the pump output and before the oil cooler.

Accusump ended up costing about £320 (with the EPC valve, and appropriate hoses and adapters) and adds weight, so you don't want to go down this route unless you have to.


Only my experiences and guess work.

Matt

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phelpsa

posted on 13/7/10 at 09:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
I can't remember, but most of the usual suspects supply them.

merlin_oil_switch

I think you could do cheaper than this one (demon tweeks seem to be cheaper).

I have a gauge and normally the oil sits above 60psi, so 30psi tells me that I am pumping air.

Its worth putting the switch into the main oil gallery. You can get at this by replacing one of the screw in core plugs (M16 thread on mine). This seems to react quicker than the gauge, which is mounted after the pump output and before the oil cooler.

Accusump ended up costing about £320 (with the EPC valve, and appropriate hoses and adapters) and adds weight, so you don't want to go down this route unless you have to.


Only my experiences and guess work.

Matt


I was hoping to replace the standard switch with the higher pressure one and use the port in the main gallery for an oil pressure gauge. Not knowing exactly where the original switch is i dont know whether this is possible....?






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matt_gsxr

posted on 14/7/10 at 12:07 PM Reply With Quote
My experience would indicate that a gauge is interesting, but a switch is important.

I'm not sure where the original switch is on yours, mine was on the underside of the original sump, clearly not the same for the oil-cooled model.


Regarding where, there are loads of ways of doing this and it probably isn't too critical as 30psi is still lots of pressure.

If you mount the sensor for a gauge straight onto the engine, then they do seem to shake themselves apart, so most people mount them on the chassis on the end of some braided hose.

Matt

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