marcjagman
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 09:53 PM |
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CBR1000F, any good?
Thinking of buying an early CBR1000f, as one has been offered very cheap, to usr the engine. Apart from the rattly timing chain problem that they are
prone to does anyone know why I shouldn't use this for a BEC?
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StevieB
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 10:11 PM |
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They're not particularly powerful by the standards of litre bikes of the same time.
Personally, I'd save a few more pennies and go for something better
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TimC
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 10:25 PM |
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Bad bits or at least considerations:
*Needs a 3.14, 3.38 or Freelander (3.21) diff.
*Bit of a bitch to plumb.
*Hydraulic clutch slave can be a bit of a bugger to mount (requiring some thought and fabrication)
*Hayabusa heavy for Fireblade Power.
That apart, and aside from being long in the tooth its ok.
[Edited on 17/8/10 by TimC]
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marcjagman
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 10:29 PM |
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Didn't think 135bhp was that bad and at only £200 for the full bike, which is still taxed and tested rides well too, didn't think the
price too bad either.
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marcjagman
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 10:31 PM |
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I noticed the hydraulic clutch and thought of mounting it on the gear lever, could make setting of easier.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 17/8/10 at 10:50 PM |
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Cracking bike. I owned one and rode it to and around the isle of man a few years ago.
Not sure about transplanting the engine though. Might be better off with a thunderace?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 08:56 AM |
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Having installed a non-standard engine I have a couple of thoughts.
Remember that nothing will be off the shelf (like it would be with R1, busa and blade; and less so zx bikes, and gsxr1000), so if you are making
exhaust manifold, oil baffle, clutch solution, engine cradle, then this doesn't matter but otherwise you will have a harder time.
If you are doing it for the first time, then you will have less help. For example do these engines need baffle plate, or dry sump? and are there any
tricks to get the wiring working.
If you like the journey then £200 is very locost, but make sure you want to go down this route. In practice the total costs would swamp the
difference between £200 and £1200 for an engine. Incidentally, when you say early, is it pre-94 (i.e. easy emissions?).
Matt
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marcjagman
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 10:37 AM |
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It's a 1989 model, would have thought oiling should be okay especially with the oil cooler. Would fit an oil pressure gauge and take it from
there really but thinking of buying and fitting a baffle in the sump to be safe. As a carer money is really tight and this seems like a good option at
a price that is very affordable for me but all input, good or bad, is welcome.
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TimC
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 11:12 AM |
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You should be ok with the standard sump. The drain plug could ideally do with being moved to the side but its not necessary. For a low-cost route to
a BEC you could do a lot lot worse...
Oh - you will need uprated clutch springs - check you can still get them.
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jambojeef
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 12:56 PM |
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Its fine. Cheap and powerful and torquey enough for some cheap thrills.
Do it - its not a particularly tricky engine to package or run - its a bit heavy maybe but not ridiculously so.
For £200 I would say you cant go wrong.
If you want to turbo it at a later date I have 2 of everything and can probably help.
Geoff
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marcjagman
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 03:48 PM |
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Turbo? Hadn't thought of that, tell me more.
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