Davegtst
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 posted on 17/2/12 at 08:15 PM |
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Hayabusa fault code (c92 fuel level sensor)
My busa is all wired up and runs fine but i have the FI light on all the time. I did a check earlier and it comes up with C92 fuel level sensor. I
am using standard clocks with a standard pump/sender mounted in the bottom of an MK tank. Is there a resistor that needs to go in this circuit too?
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 09:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
My busa is all wired up and runs fine but i have the FI light on all the time. I did a check earlier and it comes up with C92 fuel level sensor. I
am using standard clocks with a standard pump/sender mounted in the bottom of an MK tank. Is there a resistor that needs to go in this circuit too?
Is there an additional level sensor to limit performance when fuel is low?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Davegtst
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 09:06 PM |
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No just a 2 wire float sensor.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 10:51 PM |
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On cars a low fuel level code is used to prevent any of misfire fault codes illuminating the MIL.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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bobinspain
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 09:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
My busa is all wired up and runs fine but i have the FI light on all the time. I did a check earlier and it comes up with C92 fuel level sensor. I
am using standard clocks with a standard pump/sender mounted in the bottom of an MK tank. Is there a resistor that needs to go in this circuit too?
Dave,
I get the FI (fault indicator) light when I flatshift and it stays on until I restart the engine. 'Normal' apparently.
I have the standard MK sender mechanism and tank, but have had to take the whole gubbins out to bend the arm to get it to read something like
sensible. When full to the gunnels, it was indicating a third full on the gauge, so was showing 'empty' when 2/3rds full.
I need to repeat the process and bend the arm (downwards) a smidge more as it now reads 3/4s when full up and empty when 1/4 full.
May just 'live with it though.'
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Davegtst
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 09:10 PM |
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I'm sure it can't be normal. Does anyone else have this problem?
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cosmick
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 11:39 AM |
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I think you will find that when you first turn the ignition on, there is no FI light or fault code but after about 30 seconds to 1 minute, the FI
fault occurrs. If this is the case then the sender resistance is outside of the parameters expected by the speedo. This will occurr sometimes with a
full tank or with an empty tank but you may find that with a half full tank all is OK. If this is the case then you need to measure the resistance at
different positions to find out where the snder is out of specification. If you have used a GSX R1000 fuel pump for example, the rsistance is
different to a Haybusa. Alternatively, if the sender arm has been bent to adapt to your tank then you may need to reshape it. If you have access to a
Genuine Suzuki Hayabusa manual it shows the resistances in the book.
Also, if you leave the sender disconnected, the same FI light will come on after the same period.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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Davegtst
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 12:02 PM |
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I was hoping you would reply to this thread cosmick. You are right it only comes on after 30 seconds or so. I believe I do have a gsxr1000 sender
fitted as mk sent me the wrong one with my kit (surprise surprise). I had to bend the arm too so it works. Ill take it out and see if it can bend it
into a better shape.
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cosmick
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 04:11 PM |
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OK, so you need to find out where the FI light comes on. If it does it regardless of fuel amount then the sender probably isn't working and it
is as if the sender is disconnected. Remember, the FI light will come on if the sender is disconnected. When you first turn the ignition on, the low
fuel light should illuminate and the gauge should go full scale and then settle at the actual amount in the tank. A disconnected sender will usually
go full scale and then back to empty, finally bringing the FI light on and extinguishing the low fuel light at the same time.
My car puts the FI light on if I absolutely brim it with petrol as it puts my sender outside the parameters at the top end of the scale. Check out
your resistances at each end and compare them with the workshop manual.
[Edited on 19/2/12 by cosmick]
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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Davegtst
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| posted on 20/2/12 at 08:28 AM |
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The sender is connected and the gauge works to a point. It gets to full on the gauge when the tank is about 3/4 full. At the moment it is completly
full so it seems it has gone outside the gauges parameters. I'll drop the level and see what happends. I have seen the resistance values on
the net somewhere but can't seem to find it now.
Edit. here it is
[Edited on 20/2/12 by Davegtst]
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bobinspain
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| posted on 20/2/12 at 09:24 AM |
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Dave,
The diagram you've posted would indicate why the sender arm needs bending downwards to get a representative (though inaccurate) fuel-gauge
reading:--In the car, the base-plate is aligned horizontally,i.e flat to the botton of the tank, wheras the diagram shows it mounted with a 24.5
degree inclination away from the horizontal.
My tank now reads empty when I have 6-7 litres left, and 3/4 when topped up, so needs 'tweaking' some more. Since it's erring on the
side of caution, I may just stick with it.
Regards, Bob.
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Davegtst
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| posted on 27/2/12 at 04:00 PM |
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Sorted!! I took the sender out and made a limit stop that fits onto the float arm right up near the resistor track. With a bit of careful filing
and measuring with the multimeter it is now absolutly perfect and no more FI light.
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cosmick
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| posted on 27/2/12 at 08:47 PM |
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Well done. my tank sender shows a full tank for quite some time and then starts to drop. however, once it reaches about 1/3rd full it drops like a
stone and brings the yellow low fuel light on in about 5 miles. Never the less, it is far more accurate than the previous sender taken out. The nice
thing about this set up is all the parts used are Suzuki and the Speedo works, it is accurate, and all the other features on the clocks work as well,
including fuel consumption. it even tells the time.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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Davegtst
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| posted on 27/2/12 at 09:20 PM |
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I have tested the gauge by adding 2 litres at a time from a completely empty tank. It isn't very linear but I now know exactly how much I have
in the tank according to the gauge.
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