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Author: Subject: Busa emissions too high. help!
Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:20 PM Reply With Quote
Busa emissions too high. help!

I've just got back from my local friendly mot station where i got them to check the headlights, brakes and emission before i book the IVA. Turns out the emissions are way too high. Co was 7.0% where it should be 0.2%, HC was 450 ppm where it should be 200 ppm, lambda was 0.80 i believe rather than 1.00. I have a healtech FI fitted (power comander type fuel controller) so i leaned it off as much as i could but i could only get it down to 5% CO. I've seen some of you have had to reduce the fuel pressure to get it lean enough but what regulator should i get? I also had it mapped the other day so there is nothing wrong with the way the engine is running.
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eddie99

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:21 PM Reply With Quote
You Running a Cat? A Cat will definitely help with the co2.





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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:24 PM Reply With Quote
Yep sorry this is with a cat fitted.
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eddie99

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:30 PM Reply With Quote
Is the cat right up against the manifold, and is the cat definitely getting hot. I know its different with CEC's but you have to rev the nuts of them to get the Cat warmed up before it starts working. However i seem to recall my co2 went from like 2 down to 0.001, not from 5.





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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
No the cat is just before the silencer. I had it running at about 3000 rpm for about 5 mins, not sure if this was enough though.



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eddie99

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:40 PM Reply With Quote
I had it there at first, but couldnt get it hot enough so moved it right up when the manifold comes into 1. And its needed more revs to get it hot i found. However CEC's are different, so wait for the busa experts to pop online





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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 04:48 PM Reply With Quote
Hmmm can't get it any closer, the pipe is only about 10mm away from the side panel as it is.
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motorcycle_mayhem

posted on 2/7/12 at 05:05 PM Reply With Quote
OK.... I know nothing about these things, I'm sure you'll hear from people far more knowledgeable than me.

I can't see a lambda sensor in the photo, but if it's an early Hayabusa (one lambda) make sure it's at the pipe junction where it'll get some heat. If it's the later type with two lambda's, then get them hot at the two junctions.
You'll need to reduce the fuel pressure, so get yourself an FSE (AIR001) pressure regulator. For best results, have a flushing fuel rail, in at one end, out onto the regulator on the other. Normally you'll be looking at 42 1b-ish (3 bar-ish), but slacken this right off into the 30's. The ECU will then widen the pulse (if the lambda loop is working), allowing you to adjust the fuelling with ease. Get it all HOT. The engine won't 'pick-up' with that fuel pressure, won't run above about 5K, but it will pass emmisions.
I welded two Volvo Wentworth catalysts together. The first one was almost cherry red, the subsequent one ran cooler.
Run oxygenated fuel if you can, avoiding the high-octane (aromatic) variety. If you've access to a chemical shelf, then MTBE is a good one to push up the octane if you have too, while adding oxygen.

Persevere - you will get the thing through. Then you've got the whole hassle 3 years later when you've bored the thing out to 1400cc, stroked it to 1585cc and then added a turbo. You then fill it with Sunoco NOS fuel and get an MoT..... with a lot of hassle!

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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
'Run oxygenated fuel if you can, avoiding the high-octane (aromatic) variety'

What do you mean by this? I am running a gsxr in-tank fuel pump that has only a feed to the fuel rail and no return. I am also using 97 ron super unleaded.
It's a K1 busa engine that doesn't have a lambda at all.

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BobM

posted on 2/7/12 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DavegtstCo was 7.0% where it should be 0.2%, HC was 450 ppm where it should be 200 ppm, lambda was 0.80

Looks to me like you were still running rich and the cat wasn't working. For my ZX10 I left it running at 3k rpm for a while (like 20 minutes) till it was getting really hot and the numbers came down. You might have trouble with that length of pipe before the cat although mine has 600mm primaries and 600mm secondaries. Maybe wrapping your manifold and the pipe up to the cat might help get the cat hotter?

I've no experience with the Healtech unit, how much does it allow you to lean off your fuel? In my Power Commander I was down to -27 (i.e. 27% leaner than standard) to get there.

I got mine through on standard unleaded and with standard fuel pressure.





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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 05:46 PM Reply With Quote
With the Healtech you can only lean it to -20 (not sure if this is percent). When it was being mapped Nick at PDQ commented quite alot on how it isn't as good as a power comander but this is what i am stuck with for the moment. I may be getting a proper gas analyser in the next few days so my thoughts are to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and do a bit of testing. Really pissed, if it got though the emissions test today i would have filled out the IVA paperwork tomorrow.
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richard thomas

posted on 2/7/12 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
Mine was a pain in the arse, took a couple of attempts but......

Eventually it got through running 28psi fuel pressure with the PAIRS emmissions control stuff still fitted....it only just came in though.....my cat is integral with the silencer, but about in the same position as yours relative to the block....

We found it easy to get emmisions in at the MOT station, but at the SVA (at the time) it was a time bound process which meant running at certain revs (30% of max iirc) then drop to idle and have emmissions come in within a certain time....my SVA inspector was quite understanding but it did take about 4 attempts....

No Power Commander fitted - No Lambda on mine (99 engine)...

It is well worthwhile having a feed and return from the fuel rail (in fact to adjust fuel pressure it is needed) , the return going to the fue lpressure regulator....i don't think it is important which type of regulator so long as you can adjust it downwards...recommend a fuel pressure guage between the rail and regulator though otherwise you are just guessing....

Wind the fuel pressure back up to 43psi as soon as you can after test....stops pistons melting etc......

Hope this helps.....

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big_l

posted on 2/7/12 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
mate i ran 45 psi fuel pressure a cat of a mini cooper s and wrapped my exaughst with heat wrap wich will help with the heating ..

you can also adjust the iva paperwork to help yourself max engine speed 7.5k wich means emission test is done at lower revs...





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Davegtst

posted on 2/7/12 at 09:18 PM Reply With Quote
Surely putting 7.5 k revs as the max will only help with the noise test. Mine was tested at 2500 rpm as it would be at an mot.
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big_l

posted on 2/7/12 at 09:29 PM Reply With Quote
yeah sorry mate my mistake i new it had been adjusted for a reason though


try rapping the cat see if it helps things is the exaughst sealed perfect ??





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Custardpants

posted on 4/7/12 at 09:12 PM Reply With Quote
Is the Pair valve working? What about leaving its connecting pipe open to the atmosphere for the test so you're getting lots of air into the exhaust? On the RR i had to bung it as it made a massive difference to the mixture in the exhaust.
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Davegtst

posted on 4/7/12 at 09:50 PM Reply With Quote
No the pair system has been removed completely. I've still got it but not sure if it ever worked from the state of it. I've got a fuel pressure regulator now so I'm going to have a go at lowering the pressure on my next day off, I should also have the use of a gas analyser from tomorrow so I will be able to check how much difference I am making.
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40inches

posted on 5/7/12 at 09:28 AM Reply With Quote
Is the Pair system the same as the Kawasaki KLEEN system i.e it injects air into the exhaust?
If so I found a tremendous difference after refitting it, as per this thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172091






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BobM

posted on 5/7/12 at 10:37 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inchesIs the Pair system the same as the Kawasaki KLEEN system i.e it injects air into the exhaust?
If so I found a tremendous difference after refitting it, as per this thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172091

Yes, my ZX10 had an identical system to on the Busa. I removed mine and blocked off all the ports, still met IVA emissions.





Not very Locost but very BEC

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40inches

posted on 5/7/12 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BobM
quote:
Originally posted by 40inchesIs the Pair system the same as the Kawasaki KLEEN system i.e it injects air into the exhaust?
If so I found a tremendous difference after refitting it, as per this thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172091

Yes, my ZX10 had an identical system to on the Busa. I removed mine and blocked off all the ports, still met IVA emissions.


I did initially, and was going to go through the adjusting carbs etc. route, but if you look at the before and after emissions, and the lambda is within limits, I don't have to bother. Of course I have carbs not injection, that may put a different spin on things






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Davegtst

posted on 10/7/12 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
Result!! I have turned the fuel pressure down via an FSE regulator in the back from 43 psi as it is standard to 23 psi. This is with the PAIR system removed, without the manifold wrapped and the cat fitted. What i don't quite get is it was mapped without the cat at 43 psi but to get it to through the emissions test i need to lean it right off. Surely it can't be safe to run it at 23 psi for long periods. As soon as it's passed i intend to put the fuel pressure back to where it was mapped at.








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