Phoenix-Rob
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| posted on 24/10/12 at 09:19 AM |
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ZX12 Clutch ( advise please )
Just toasted the clutch in my ZX12 Phoenix on recent trackday, so I am rebuilding it with Genuine friction plates and steels.
Is it best to have narrow and wide friction plates as standard, or fit 12 wide ones?
Do I fit standard or uprated springs or 3 of each?
Does anyone drill their inner hub/basket for better oil supply to plates?
If anyone has a secondhand billet basket for sale I would very interested.
Thanks
Rob
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maccmike
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| posted on 24/10/12 at 09:53 AM |
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one I think I can answer, 3 heavy springs 
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bigbravedave
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| posted on 24/10/12 at 11:47 AM |
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hmmm, I've done 3000 enthusiastic miles on a 100% OEM stock set up in an early A1 zx12r engined stuart taylor loco.... without the slightest
hint of slip. I have read all the issues on the net but so far the only issue I've seen first hand with this set-up is repeated clutch dumping
hard launches, where the tangs on the basket fatigue then let go.
I don't know if oil has anything to do with it but I was violated £50 for a gallon of silkolene (some ambiguoous name).
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twybrow
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| posted on 24/10/12 at 07:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bigbravedave
hmmm, I've done 3000 enthusiastic miles on a 100% OEM stock set up in an early A1 zx12r engined stuart taylor loco.... without the slightest
hint of slip. I have read all the issues on the net but so far the only issue I've seen first hand with this set-up is repeated clutch dumping
hard launches, where the tangs on the basket fatigue then let go.
I don't know if oil has anything to do with it but I was violated £50 for a gallon of silkolene (some ambiguoous name).
I have oem plates and steel, with uprated (10% stiffer) springs. 1000 miles and no sign of slip - I do need to modify my pedal/cable arrangement as it
is a lot more on/off than the last bike engine I ran in the car.
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bigbravedave
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| posted on 24/10/12 at 08:06 PM |
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I thought i had built in about the right clutch pedal to clutch input ratio initially. But was finding that i could either pull away gently or full
bore launch but strugled with the inbetween enthusiastic subtle pull away. I adjusted the pedal ratio so that the clutch bite poin is now spread over
an inch of pedal travel and its transformed the car. I used to dread hill starts in city centre rush hour but since i adjusted it alls good
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Phoenix-Rob
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 04:38 PM |
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Any more experiences to share ?
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Hellfire
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 05:58 PM |
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Standard clutch plates with uprated Barnett springs. 8 years of BEC abuse including trackdays, dragstrips and fast road. Never had to replace a clutch
on a BEC yet........
Phil
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Phoenix-Rob
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 07:00 PM |
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I think my clutch had some abuse before I got it, was spare race engine for kit car series.
The basket has been damaged at some time, one of the locating tabs is missing and the sharp edges have been rounded off, so not recently broken.
This is why I am looking for a billet ( or very good standard ) basket.
I am planing on using 12 full size genuine friction plates and 11x 1.6mm steels with up rated springs.
That is unless recommended otherwise.
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turbo911
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 07:56 PM |
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For what its worth i would stick with the oem standard set up with either standard or barnett springs i would pay particular attention to whether the
friction plates are the same thickness, ie find a manual and follow it i know from experience that the zx10 clutch uses different thickness friction
plates in a certain order follow this and it will last ages!!!!!
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BobM
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 10:22 PM |
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I just run OEM plates with standard springs in my ZX10. Lasted a whole season in RGB with a few test and trackdays thrown in.
Not very Locost but very BEC
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