R1 STRIKER
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 09:07 AM |
|
|
removing powdercoat?
Hi, Have hopefully found a second hand striker chassis for a bit of a track day toy. 1st job will be removing the powder coat ready to do a few
modifications (bike engine frame, full cage etc). I've heard shot blasting doesn't touch powder coat, so what have people used? Want to do
whole chassis, will then get blasted and re powder coated.
Whilst I'm at it, any areas i should strengthen?
Thanks
Ben.
|
|
|
snapper
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 09:22 AM |
|
|
Found I had to sand/grind it back
Big problem is powder coat gets right into the grain and you need to really rub it back
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
R1 STRIKER
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 09:27 AM |
|
|
Will any kind of paint stripped touch it?
|
|
r1_pete
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 09:28 AM |
|
|
Hot air gun and scraper, once you have a start and can heat the exposed metal, the heat travels along and under the coating, making it quite easy to
scrape off.
|
|
imp paul
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 09:36 AM |
|
|
frost do a powder coat remover. but it not cheap as i got some to remove coating on some compomotive split rims its called powder coat & paint
dissolver. or you can burn it off and then blast it
link http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-cleaning/chemicals/eastwood-powder-coat-paint-dissolver-3-78-litres.html
|
|
rusty nuts
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 10:03 AM |
|
|
When I stripped the powder coating from my chassis I used some paint stripper from Tool station and some Nitromors , the tool station stuff seemed to
work best. I found coating an area of around a couple of sq feet at a time more effective , let the stripper do it's job then scrape off, some
times had to retreat with the stripper .I tried a blow lamp but that didn't seem to work very well and wasn't able to use an angry grinder
as my garage doesn't have power. When I had got off as much as possible the chassis was shot blasted before painting with POR 15 from
Frost's followed by top coating with their Hardnose paint. Localised areas can be touched up if needed but it's now nearly 4 years since I
did it and haven't seen any problem areas.
If you use stripper invest in a decent pair of goggles and gauntlets , got mine either from Toolstation or Screwfix for about £6 , you know it makes
sense!!
|
|
perksy
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
Nitromors and a good scraper
I've always found it helps to score the powdercoat down to the base metal, this lets
the Nitromors get in and do it job.
Make sure you wash it off well after before re-painting etc
I tried using wire cup on a drill and that didn't really work, i then tried a heavy duty version in the angle
grinder and that worked but was very messy in the garage
|
|
Minicooper
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 01:35 PM |
|
|
I had a rollcage chemically stripped at the powdercoating company, I would find a powdercoating company that has these facilities, stripping a whole
chassis by hand doesn't sound like fun to me
Cheers
David
|
|
eddie99
|
posted on 3/2/13 at 03:56 PM |
|
|
What we do is heat it up with a torch and burn the worst off, then get it blasted
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|