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Author: Subject: Is this man enough to bend roll cage tube
Padstar

posted on 27/2/14 at 01:36 PM Reply With Quote
Is this man enough to bend roll cage tube

I would like to fabricate my own roll cage and was wondering if this HYDRAULIC 16 TONNE PIPE BENDER COMPLETE WITH DIES NEW CT191 would be suitable. I like the idea of adding my own design to incorporate various cages that i have seen. I realise it wont be a certified product but as i will be mainly driving on roads rather than racing i guess it is partly an esthetic thing.

Is this going to be man enough? Has anyone else tried this? Is lining up bends etc a relatively simple process?

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madteg

posted on 27/2/14 at 02:00 PM Reply With Quote
YES.
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Dale

posted on 27/2/14 at 02:06 PM Reply With Quote
A Lot of people have trouble kinking tube on those benders, I have one but have not tried big bends yet.
Dale





Thanks
Dale

my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road

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Padstar

posted on 27/2/14 at 02:22 PM Reply With Quote
Packing with sand would surely prevent kinking?
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NS Dev

posted on 27/2/14 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
a few issues with those, basically yes it works, but in reality you will need tube dies (pipe dies are wrong size for the cold drawn tube you need for roll cages), and then yes they do tend to kink the tube unless you go over 3mm on the wall thickness.

Yep they work, but they're not great.

I own an older, heavier version of one, with tube dies, and its really an ornament, bending gets done on my pro tools mechanical bender





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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Dale

posted on 27/2/14 at 02:44 PM Reply With Quote
If you search online you will find hints on using them for tube and some good results, usually it requires a few modifications
Dale





Thanks
Dale

my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road

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owelly

posted on 27/2/14 at 03:27 PM Reply With Quote
As said, these do kink or mark the tube. The one I have here at work has one set of rollers for all sizes of tube so I made a couple of sets to do the smaller tubes plus a pair of formers for the larger stuff. The formers are used with plain rollers and work fine.





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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loggyboy

posted on 27/2/14 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Padstar
I realise it wont be a certified product but as i will be mainly driving on roads rather than racing i guess it is partly an esthetic thing.


As long as you use the correct tube type and size and design it as shown in the msa blue book it will automatically comply with nation level racing requirements.

It does note on bending :

The tubing must be bent by a cold working process and the centreline bend radius must be at least three times the tube diameter. If the tubing is ovalised during bending, the ratio of minor to major diameter must be 0.9 or greater.



[Edited on 27-2-14 by loggyboy]





Mistral Motorsport

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mark chandler

posted on 27/2/14 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
Okay for scaffold tube, go much thinner or expensive CDS as per the blue book and it will kink the pipe.

I gave mine away, people with the correct kit, madral benders usually charge between £5-£15 per bend, I now draw out what I want and use someone like 'tube bender' on eBay, I then get a flat pack to weld up.

Regards Mark

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Simon

posted on 27/2/14 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Okay for scaffold tube, go much thinner or expensive CDS as per the blue book and it will kink the pipe.

I gave mine away, people with the correct kit, madral benders usually charge between £5-£15 per bend, I now draw out what I want and use someone like 'tube bender' on eBay, I then get a flat pack to weld up.

Regards Mark


Agree with Mark (I bought a bender from Machine Mart and sent it back because of the kinking, even though they moaned - to which I suggested they clarify on their ad), that's what I did with toy car - took template to a local tube benders and collected a week later. Quite cheap, then weld together at home/work etc.

ATB

Simon






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AdrianH

posted on 27/2/14 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
Just a point here if doing anything for future MSA events then the main roll bar must be one piece, the use of 90 degree bends welded up is not permitted.

I know you could hide it quite well with weld and grinding a bit of filler and paint. But is your own neck or whoever gets the car after you if sold on.

Adrian

[Edited on 27-2-14 by AdrianH]





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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43655

posted on 27/2/14 at 11:53 PM Reply With Quote
for god's sake don't, they're utter garbage.
I had a local motorsport make me the main roll bar and the 2 a-bars for £200 (inc supplying the 2.64mm CDS).
Definitely worth it.

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brum_gustavo

posted on 28/2/14 at 01:46 AM Reply With Quote
I´ve built a fll rollcage for an Opel Rekord (pics here) using one of those. 1 1/2" pipe, 2.5mm wall thickness, but I agree it´s not worth buying it for just a single car, it´s not so easy to get the lengths and angles right the first time you use it. But if you intend to build cages for a living...





Build diary: http://gustavobrum.wordpress.com/

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splitrivet

posted on 28/2/14 at 10:58 AM Reply With Quote
What I made mine with as well as crash bars for mine and several others bikes.
If your using thin wall fill with the tube with sand first.
Getting the the bend in the right place takes some working out but other wise no problem.
Cheers,
Bob





I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo

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Rod Ends

posted on 28/2/14 at 11:19 AM Reply With Quote
bending video


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