I would like to fabricate my own roll cage and was wondering if this HYDRAULIC 16 TONNE PIPE BENDER COMPLETE WITH DIES NEW
CT191 would be suitable. I like the idea of adding my own design to incorporate various cages that i have seen. I realise it wont be a
certified product but as i will be mainly driving on roads rather than racing i guess it is partly an esthetic thing.
Is this going to be man enough? Has anyone else tried this? Is lining up bends etc a relatively simple process?
a few issues with those, basically yes it works, but in reality you will need tube dies (pipe dies are wrong size for the cold drawn tube you need for
roll cages), and then yes they do tend to kink the tube unless you go over 3mm on the wall thickness.
Yep they work, but they're not great.
I own an older, heavier version of one, with tube dies, and its really an ornament, bending gets done on my pro tools mechanical bender
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Building: Magenta LSR Ver 2.2.3 AKA Tupperware Turd
posted on 27/2/14 at 03:27 PM
As said, these do kink or mark the tube. The one I have here at work has one set of rollers for all sizes of tube so I made a couple of sets to do the
smaller tubes plus a pair of formers for the larger stuff. The formers are used with plain rollers and work fine.
quote:Originally posted by Padstar
I realise it wont be a certified product but as i will be mainly driving on roads rather than racing i guess it is partly an esthetic thing.
As long as you use the correct tube type and size and design it as shown in the msa blue book it will automatically comply with nation level racing
requirements.
It does note on bending :
The tubing must be bent by a cold working process and the centreline bend radius must be at least three times the tube diameter. If the tubing is
ovalised during bending, the ratio of minor to major diameter must be 0.9 or greater.
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Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 27/2/14 at 05:49 PM
Okay for scaffold tube, go much thinner or expensive CDS as per the blue book and it will kink the pipe.
I gave mine away, people with the correct kit, madral benders usually charge between £5-£15 per bend, I now draw out what I want and use someone like
'tube bender' on eBay, I then get a flat pack to weld up.
quote:Originally posted by mark chandler
Okay for scaffold tube, go much thinner or expensive CDS as per the blue book and it will kink the pipe.
I gave mine away, people with the correct kit, madral benders usually charge between £5-£15 per bend, I now draw out what I want and use someone like
'tube bender' on eBay, I then get a flat pack to weld up.
Regards Mark
Agree with Mark (I bought a bender from Machine Mart and sent it back because of the kinking, even though they moaned - to which I suggested they
clarify on their ad), that's what I did with toy car - took template to a local tube benders and collected a week later. Quite cheap, then weld
together at home/work etc.
Just a point here if doing anything for future MSA events then the main roll bar must be one piece, the use of 90 degree bends welded up is not
permitted.
I know you could hide it quite well with weld and grinding a bit of filler and paint. But is your own neck or whoever gets the car after you if sold
on.
Adrian
[Edited on 27-2-14 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
for god's sake don't, they're utter garbage.
I had a local motorsport make me the main roll bar and the 2 a-bars for £200 (inc supplying the 2.64mm CDS).
Definitely worth it.
I´ve built a fll rollcage for an Opel Rekord (pics here) using one of
those. 1 1/2" pipe, 2.5mm wall thickness, but I agree it´s not worth buying it for just a single car, it´s not so easy to get the lengths and
angles right the first time you use it. But if you intend to build cages for a living...
What I made mine with as well as crash bars for mine and several others bikes.
If your using thin wall fill with the tube with sand first.
Getting the the bend in the right place takes some working out but other wise no problem.
Cheers,
Bob
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