olimarler
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posted on 18/4/14 at 07:34 PM |
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Weird clutch slip
Hi guys,
Need your brains on this!
Have a Locost chassis with a honda cbr 1000f hurricane engine in it.
The clutch has uprated springs in it with standard honda frictions
When oil is cold I get slippage (but only on full throttle and going for it) but when up to temp no slippage at all.
Is this normal or start of the slippery slope towards a clutch change?
It is due an oil change though!!
If so tempted towards the uprated ebc components mainly due to price!
Hopefully a way off.
Cheers
Oli
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NigeEss
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posted on 18/4/14 at 10:17 PM |
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I believe that some clutches are very sensitive to oils grade. Not heard of it causing
low temp slippage (normally judder) but it's not outside the realms of possibility.
Try using the oil recommended by Honda.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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Nickp
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posted on 19/4/14 at 05:42 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by olimarler
When oil is cold I get slippage (but only on full throttle and going for it) but when up to temp no slippage at all.
Is this normal or start of the slippery slope towards a clutch change?
It is due an oil change though!!
Oli
Not been funny but why are you giving it 'full throttle and going for it' when the oil is cold? You're not doing any of the engine /
transmission components any favours. The oil will be thicker and slippery'er(?) when cold, probably causing the slip. If it's fine when
warm then don't worry about it. Always use the correct oil. If I used a fully synthetic on my Aprilia it'd slip, the correct semi syn was
fine. Sometimes oil can be too good when it comes to wet clutches
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olimarler
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posted on 19/4/14 at 05:57 AM |
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Fair point NIck!
I'm not going full beans straight off not that mad!
I'm using a castrol 1 oil in it.
I will double check the honda recommendations.
Cheers all
Oli
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Nickp
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posted on 19/4/14 at 06:07 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by olimarler
I'm using a castrol 1 oil in it.
I will double check the honda recommendations.
Cheers all
Oli
If that's a full synthetic (which I think it is) then maybe you could try the semi synthetic equivalent and see how that does?
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olimarler
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posted on 19/4/14 at 07:10 AM |
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I believe the castrol 1 racing is the fully synthetic which I'm not using but I will double check for it
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rick1962uk
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posted on 19/4/14 at 07:48 AM |
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i never put fully in any of our bikes including the race ones use a 10w40 semi most top brands are good we have had some engines clutches react like
yours but after a change of oil make and a rough up of both the steel and friction plates all is normally ok rock oil gaurdian is a good spec and we
have had no clutch trouble with it at all
if fact as we are on the subject if a few of you would like to group for a few 4 lt tube each i will get a trade discount price also filters etc easy
ones for me to get are rock oil castrol and silkolene t hey come in 4lts i wont make any thing out of these so need numbers up front if any one is
intrested
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rick1962uk
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posted on 19/4/14 at 08:02 AM |
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just a quick look up might be a few pence out but
Silkolene Super 4 semi 4lt £19.50 20lt £70
castrol Power 1 semi 4lt £26.50
Rock oil 4 lt £21.60
please keep these prices for the forum only as they are the trade prices and i will get shot if every one finds out also filters will very but hiflow
HF303 fits most and come out at £3.85 each
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adithorp
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posted on 19/4/14 at 08:03 AM |
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Castrol Power 1 4T is a semi-syn (actually part-syn which is a subtle difference) oil according to OpieOils. I assume you are using the bike engine 4t
version.
I've always used fully syn in my R1 with no problems and I personally think the "only use semi -syn" thing is overstated and often
just a cover up for other issues...
Is this a new symptom or has it always done this? If it's new and the oil is quite old that'd suggest the oil grade isn't the
problem as it would have done it before (when the oil was new). If it's a new problem the chances are it's wear related and will get
worse. I'd start bu doing the oil change (ith whatever grade Honda recommend) and then either wait and see if it disappears or change the plates
and possibly clutch springs now. Standard plates are often preffered to aftermarket ones but Barnett h/duty springs
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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wombat258
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posted on 19/4/14 at 08:55 AM |
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I had a similar problem in a GSXR1100W when the clutch would slip cold because the pushrod had bottomed out the hydraulic slave cylinder, due to
clutch wear. I gather that as the clutch pack heated it grew enough to restore the clearance again. I shortened the pushrod and the problem went away.
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olimarler
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posted on 19/4/14 at 06:30 PM |
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Hi all thanks for the replies!
It's a new problem will keep you all posted.
Oli
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