dern
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| posted on 11/11/04 at 09:31 AM |
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r1 manifold
I'm at the stage where I need to start thinking about where the engine will go and to start making engine mounts and so on.
In people's experience am I better off getting the engine into the best position in terms of sump angle and prop position and then get a
manifold make to suit or buy a manifold from MK or someone like that and position the engine to suit the three variable (prop, sump angle and manifold
position)?
The chassis is a home built book chassis built using McSorley's plans but with the transmission tunnel straight to the front and not widening
out at the front as I'm not housing a car gearbox.
The engine is a 2003 fuel-injected R1 engine. I do have the bike downpipes for this bike. I'm not going to include the exup valve in the
system.
Thanks for any advice,
Mark
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Jasper
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| posted on 11/11/04 at 12:56 PM |
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I got my manifold - then suspended the engine in the engine bay to get the best position - just make sure you get the sump horizontal. The made p a
cradle to suit - it was actually very straightforward.
If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room.
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kingr
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| posted on 12/11/04 at 09:25 AM |
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Well, I put the engine in place and built the mounts, then skinned the car, cut a hole out of the side and built the exhaust system to fit (pics in
archive). Obviously this method is only any good if you're building your own system or don't mind trailering your chassis to someone to
build your exhaust.
Kingr
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dern
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| posted on 12/11/04 at 09:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Well, I put the engine in place and built the mounts, then skinned the car, cut a hole out of the side and built the exhaust system to fit (pics in
archive). Obviously this method is only any good if you're building your own system or don't mind trailering your chassis to someone to
build your exhaust.
I'm not averse to building my own. How did you go about doing it? Did you do much pipe bending (if so how?) or did
you buy component curves and weld them together?
Did you build a cat into the system?
Thanks for any information (and your time).
All the best,
Mark
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kingr
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| posted on 14/11/04 at 03:05 PM |
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Hi Mark,
To answer your questions :
I cut 4 pieces of copper brake pipe to the same length and attached them to a piece of wood bolted to the exhaust ports and used a template for the
radius of curve that I had. I then bent the bits of brake pipe until I had them all ending up in a square pattern to suit the collector. Once
I'd done that I just use the brake pipe as a template for the sections of tube, cutting and welding them as I went.
No pipe bending at all, I just bought about 10 (IIRC) 90 degree "dairy bends" from a company called HPE (they have a website).
There's a cat in later R1 exhaust which is what I used. This was sufficient to get me through SVA cat test (98 engine on carbs).
Hope this helps, incidentally the hardest bit of the whole exhaust system build was getting the stainless exhaust system to mate with the titanium
back box (more about this elsewhere on the forum).
Kingr
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dern
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| posted on 14/11/04 at 04:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
To answer your questions :
Thanks very much for that, I think I'll have to give that a go. Is the standard downpipe made from stainless
rather than anything more exotic?
All the best,
Mark
Edited to add: I think mine may be made of something other than stainless as a magnet isn't attracted to it. I'll have to investgate and
alternative, maybe the older downpipes will bolt on and I can use those.
[Edited on 14/11/04 by dern]
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Bob C
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| posted on 14/11/04 at 06:02 PM |
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There's quite a few sorts of stainless steel - most are non- magnetic!
cheers
Bob
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dern
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| posted on 14/11/04 at 08:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
There's quite a few sorts of stainless steel - most are non- magnetic!
Really? Well I never knew that.
Cheers,
Mark
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JoelP
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| posted on 14/11/04 at 08:08 PM |
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thats a bummer - i bought a standard exhaust for my zx9 with the intention of modifying it. not easy for an amateur welder...
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kingr
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| posted on 15/11/04 at 11:01 AM |
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Yes, certainly the 98 downpipes are in Stainless and I strongly suspect that all versions are - surely Yamaha isn't so crazy as to make the
entire exhaust system from titanium?
I'd say that trying to modify the standard exhaust is pretty futile - there's almost definitely not enough bends, they're not very
good bends and why bother when nice mandel bent dairy bends are only a few quid each anyway?
Kingr
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Tralfaz
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| posted on 15/11/04 at 11:12 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Yes, certainly the 98 downpipes are in Stainless and I strongly suspect that all versions are - surely Yamaha isn't so crazy as to make the
entire exhaust system from titanium?
Kingr
Mmm.....
Every bit of the 2003 exhaust I cut up showered lovely white sparks and smelled exactly the same.
I am fairly certain that it is all titanium.
Brian
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dern
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| posted on 15/11/04 at 11:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tralfaz
quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Yes, certainly the 98 downpipes are in Stainless and I strongly suspect that all versions are - surely Yamaha isn't so crazy as to make the
entire exhaust system from titanium?
Kingr
Mmm.....
Every bit of the 2003 exhaust I cut up showered lovely white sparks and smelled exactly the same.
I am fairly certain that it is all titanium.
I'm pretty sure the downpipes on my fireblade are titanium so can't see why Yamaha
wouldn't go the same way to save weight (presumably) as Honda.
Assuming that they are titanium, I suppose the worst case would be to simply chop each header pipe off at 6" or thereabouts and then clamp
stainless sections on the stubs using gun gum and exhaust clamps. All exhaust systems I've ever seen are built in the same way (although
admitedly not the manifolds). Do you think that this would work or would the temperature that close to the engine be too much for the exhaust assembly
paste. I can't see how it would as I've seen many systems wrapped which would transfer similar amounts of heat to the first joint in an
exhaust system.
Regards,
Mark
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kingr
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| posted on 15/11/04 at 11:44 AM |
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I don't think I'd be keen on using that method - I'd probably investigate having the little bits that interface with the engine
machined out of stainless.
Kingr
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Tralfaz
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| posted on 23/11/04 at 11:14 AM |
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There is a shot of my just completed R1 manifold - made with mild steel mandrel U-bends, in my photo archive if anyone is interested.
Still needs to be sent out for blasting and coating.
ATB
Brian
[Edited on 23/11/04 by Tralfaz]
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dern
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| posted on 24/11/04 at 12:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tralfaz
There is a shot of my just completed R1 manifold - made with mild steel mandrel U-bends, in my photo archive if anyone is interested.
Nice job.
Did you use the engine ends of an R1 manifold to mate the manifold with the engine? If so what year is the engine?
Regards,
Mark
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Tralfaz
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| posted on 24/11/04 at 09:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dern
Nice job. Did you use the engine ends of an R1 manifold to mate the manifold with the engine? If so what year is the engine?
Regards,
Mark
Nope. I used 1 3/4" OD thick wall (1/8" )tubing that fits tightly around the 1 1/2" OD 16 gauge to create the ends(flanges). I did
use the factory "Flange Clamp Plates"(The bits that actually bolt to the head and clamp the header in place)
T
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