Winston Todge
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| posted on 14/4/19 at 08:09 PM |
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Maximum sensible weight for a 200bhp BEC...?
My VortX R1 (4XV) ended up being around 600kg wet and with me in it...
Two up it still goes well, but you can definitely feel another person on board.
As a few may be able to tell (sorry about all the posts!) I'm scoping out my new project, which needs to include a roof, heater, doors, a
reverse and the ability to sit at 80mph ish and not make my ears bleed (i.e. still be a able to hear the radio...).
So I've been looking at cars that I like the look of (in a weird way...) and I've been looking at iQs (850kg ish), BMW Mini (1100kg
lightened significantly), and even things like BMW Z4s and Audi TTs (1200kgs, best bet).
I am set on using a Kawasaki ZZR1400 motor (which I will NOS later in its life), but I really want to know if anyone's got a 'feel'
for the maximum weight a BEC should be to still feel quick...
I'm arbitrarily saying 1000kg... Thoughts / experiences?!
Ta in advance.
Chris.
[Edited on 14-4-19 by Winston Todge]
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Ugg10
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| posted on 14/4/19 at 10:52 PM |
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Its not the power that is the issue with bike engines it is the lower levels of torque and torque is what you need to accelerate the mass of the car.
<pedant mode on> I assume you live in Germany and it is for “sitting at 80mph” on the autobahn and not the U.K.<pedant mode off>
Have you had a look at the classic mini r1 conversions, looks like the ideal solution. These modify the front subframe to accept the r1 engine, bolt
it in and use the bike wiring and off you go, just add an electric reverse.
For the zzr1400 I would have said 750kg would be max giving you 266bhp/ton but as said the lower levels of torque may not make it feel as quick off
the line and I think you will need a well packed exhaust (which may reduce power) and need to do something about induction noise if you are to make it
cruise quietly.
Also, if this is a road car (unmodified shell etc. so no Iva) are how are you going to deal with emissions at mot with the bike engine as they have
different rules iirc and don’t tend to use a cat. (Happy to be corrected).
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 14/4/19 at 11:26 PM |
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Had a quick look at the torque curve of a zzr1400, there is 80% of the peak torque available from 5500-10500rpm.
Red line just over 11000rpm.
So at around 80mph, you probably still looking at 6-7k rpm. But in top gear that would give you 140mph top speed.
The clutch strength might be the otherr side of the story as well.
A Mini with R1 will be a bit below 600kg.
You could stick a turbo on it, more torque and more muffling...
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russbost
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 12:48 PM |
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GAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH! 
Do you lot never listen/pay attention to anything at all??? 
The whole BEC's have no torque is complete & utter bollox unless you are talking about something like the original 893 'blade or
similar, modern larger capacity engines are a whole different kettle of fish
The Furore weighs 565kgs with the ZZR1400. I weigh around 70kg, so we're up to around 635kg, adding an extra person, & I've had some
fairly large passengers over the years, several who'd weigh 100kg+, the difference in performance is barely noticeable, the only significant
difference is that on a hot dry day with sticky tyres it makes it difficult to spin the rear wheels - even then 0-60 performance is still well under 4
seconds
I run a fairly high diff ratio, 3.28:1 & 17" rims with not particularly low profile tyres - the result is 70mph at 4750rpm, this is not
stressful in the least & if the engine is behind you & behind a proper bulkhead with a bit of sound proofing you're hardly gonna know
it's there! Someone has already pointed out the torque curve is relatively flat & max power is at a relatively low 9,500 (it revs to 11,500)
so there's no need to scream the knackers off it to get performance
Why does it have so much torque? ALL bike engines have a reduction gear b4 the gearbox, typically around 1.5/1.6:1. The stated torque is 113 ft/lbs,
but that is at the flywheel - the torque which is actually usable & reaching your gearbox is around 180/ft/lbs
If anyone disbelieves me, just pop round & I'll take you for a run, you will never, ever suggest again that BEC's lack torque (make
sure you bring a change of underwear!) 
Re emissions/CAT's etc. I've never had any significant problem at IVA, just tweak the map a little with Power Commander. The 2016 on
ZZR's have a small CAT built into the front pipe, no idea if this would be adequate to pass a BET's test tho' I simply added my
usual IVA exhaust for the only 2016 one I tested
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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40inches
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 02:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by russbost
GAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!
Do you lot never listen/pay attention to anything at all???
The whole BEC's have no torque is complete & utter bollox unless you are talking about something like the original 893 'blade or
similar, modern larger capacity engines are a whole different kettle of fish
The Furore weighs 565kgs with the ZZR1400. I weigh around 70kg, so we're up to around 635kg, adding an extra person, & I've had some
fairly large passengers over the years, several who'd weigh 100kg+, the difference in performance is barely noticeable, the only significant
difference is that on a hot dry day with sticky tyres it makes it difficult to spin the rear wheels - even then 0-60 performance is still well under 4
seconds
I run a fairly high diff ratio, 3.28:1 & 17" rims with not particularly low profile tyres - the result is 70mph at 4750rpm, this is not
stressful in the least & if the engine is behind you & behind a proper bulkhead with a bit of sound proofing you're hardly gonna know
it's there! Someone has already pointed out the torque curve is relatively flat & max power is at a relatively low 9,500 (it revs to 11,500)
so there's no need to scream the knackers off it to get performance
Why does it have so much torque? ALL bike engines have a reduction gear b4 the gearbox, typically around 1.5/1.6:1. The stated torque is 113 ft/lbs,
but that is at the flywheel - the torque which is actually usable & reaching your gearbox is around 180/ft/lbs
If anyone disbelieves me, just pop round & I'll take you for a run, you will never, ever suggest again that BEC's lack torque (make
sure you bring a change of underwear!)
Re emissions/CAT's etc. I've never had any significant problem at IVA, just tweak the map a little with Power Commander. The 2016 on
ZZR's have a small CAT built into the front pipe, no idea if this would be adequate to pass a BET's test tho' I simply added my
usual IVA exhaust for the only 2016 one I tested
Couldn't agree more, I put up a video on this thread https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=194307
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AdamR20
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 02:23 PM |
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Just came here to post the same as the above!
Modern 'Blades have about a 1.72 reduction in the gearbox, so your 80-90ftlbs (more torque in a car because of the exhaust, providing it's
well built...) becomes a bloody good chunk of torque at the prop, as has been said.
I did some calcs for this recently, hopefully the annotation on the graphs says it all...
Weight I used for the CEC was 600kg all up, BEC 500kg all up. Same size wheels / tyres.
To put a practical case to it... 70mph cruising in top gear - just over half revs in both the CEC and BEC in this comparison, around where each engine
will make maximum torque. Plant your foot and the BEC sends 761Nm to the rear hubs, the 4 speed CEC 825Nm and the 5 speed 718Nm. Add in the weight
factor, and the BEC is putting a good chunk more torque per ton to the road.
So back to the original question... I don't think it really matters, but lighter the better!
[Edited on 15/4/19 by AdamR20]
[Edited on 15/4/19 by AdamR20]
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 07:17 PM |
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Absolutely awesome input peeps! Really appreciate it...
I was starting to get a little pessimistic about the aim I have in the next project. You've all helped out a load! 
I forgot to mention one important constraint... That is has to be RWD and rear engined if possible, so I can use one of Doug's beautiful
Westgarage chain LSD diffs (to minimise the 'slop in the transmission' that I just cannot get rid of when driving a front engined VortX
and a TRT / Sierra diff combo...).
Really starting to think a slightly larger RWD car would be easier / safer to convert in the long run, but then where's the fun in that...
I'm starting to look at a severely lightened Audi TT as the rear end already has an LSD in it and a ZZR1400 engine would fit in there where the
rear seats are without stacking the engine above the diff (keeping the CoG low).
THANKS ALL!
Chris.
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AdamR20
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 07:37 PM |
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That sounds like a heck of a project. Let us know when the build thread starts 
The world's first 13000rpm hairdresser
[Edited on 15/4/19 by AdamR20]
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 07:41 PM |
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I've just got to finish the garage (properly sorting it this time...).
Duramat floor laid completely rewired, walls painted, 8 new LED bar lights fitted and just re-organising the Fireblade, MNR and lawnmower to get the
project car in position.
Thinking about a two post lift too, but think the wife may put the kaibosh on that one.
I'll lob all the build status up as and when I make some decisions / progress.
Not sure whether to get the donor bike first and strip and sell on the parts, or start with the donor car... I suppose whatever turns up first at the
right price.
Ta,
C.
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 15/4/19 at 09:27 PM |
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Would a Smart Roadster/ Coupe not be an idea?
http://www.extreme-engineeringuk.com/the-story.html
[Edited on 15/4/19 by ettore bugatti]
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russbost
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| posted on 16/4/19 at 07:07 AM |
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Re the length/packaging issue, don't forget the rear wheels don't need to be inline with the diff, you can run driveshafts angled towards
the front at anything up to around 30 degrees using CV's, also, you could always add a "power bulge" to the centre rear of the car
to accommodate the diff.
To help keep the front/rear length of the engine & driveline as short as poss. you could fairly easily devise a different place to put the
electric reverse, it could even drive one of the front wheels
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Shooter63
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| posted on 16/4/19 at 10:07 PM |
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On the subject of bike engine torque, I've just checked on a few rear wheel dyno charts and they all show a zzr1400 (1441cc model) with between
112ftlb and 120ftlb, just thought I'd say.
Shooter
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russbost
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 09:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Shooter63
On the subject of bike engine torque, I've just checked on a few rear wheel dyno charts and they all show a zzr1400 (1441cc model) with between
112ftlb and 120ftlb, just thought I'd say.
Shooter
I've always had the torque down as 113ft/lbs, maybe slightly more for the 2012 on & then different again for 2016 on, but the important
point is you have to multiply that by the reduction gear ratio which for ZZR1400 is 1.556:1, hence you actually have around 175lb /ft going to the
gearbox
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Ugg10
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 10:21 AM |
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As it was probably me who started the "torque" questions/debate - please can you enlighten me as I am a bit confused at the moment -
for a zzr1400 the dyno figures I can find at the rear wheel are approx 175hp and 115ftlb
for a 2.0l Zetec with around 175hp at the rear wheels (200ish Hp at the engine) I would expect a rear wheel torque of around 150ftlb
for a 2.0l BMW diesel with around 175hp at the rear wheels I would expect a rear wheel torque of around 230ftlb
Note all measures data at the rear wheel and not corrected to provide at engine results.
If you are measuring at the wheels on the dyno does it matter what the engine or gearbox figure is as it is the "at wheel" figure that
will provide you with the best estimate of the relative performance (assuming the vehicles are all the same weight/mass and have the same tyres and
power train losses) i.e. assuming the wheels do not slip - the amount of energy that can be transmitted from the tyre to the tarmac which is a measure
of the torque of the engine AFAIK.
As a simple example myself and my wife had everyday cars that both had 100hp, mine was a diesel and hers was a petrol, in terms of acceleration mine
was by far the quickest with the only difference being that mine has close on twice the torque (similar weight).
A supplementary questions is do the RPM have anything to do with it, the ZZR will be making max torque at say 8k and power at 12k where as the zetec
would be at 4k and 7.5k respectively and the deisel 2.5k and 6k respectively.
Sorry, so many questions but I am a bit confused so if anyone can explain then that would be very useful.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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AdamR20
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 11:13 AM |
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Torque is measured, bhp is a 'theoretical' value that is calculated.
Torque is how hard the engine is twisting the prop, rpm tells you how many times per minute the prop is being rotated with that torque. From this you
can calculate the total power output which we know as bhp.
So you can have a low torque engine that provides that torque many times a second (bike engine), or a high torque engine that does it far fewer times
per second (diesel engine with a turbo), and they'll both have done the same amount of work / created the same amount of energy.
You also need to look at the area under the torque curve. This shows the total amount of work done by the engine. So your example with your N/A vs
diesel turbo car, and the diesel is faster but they both put out the same bhp, it's because of the shape of the curve. Your petrol car's
dyno torque plot is (simplifying) a straight line to the limiter, the diesel will have much more torque at low rpm and the shape rises up sharply at
the start then is a bit of a plateau, so the area under that line is much greater and it is doing more work across the rev range.
Hope that helps a bit?
Had my 'Blade on dyno yesterday and it made 92FtLbs / 124Nm and a pretty flat torque curve. With the drop gear that's about 160FtLbs /
213Nm effective output.
(The engine has a few internal tweaks and I have been VERY anal with the exhaust manufacture, it's not a 'downhill dyno'!)
[Edited on 17/4/19 by AdamR20]
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Ugg10
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 12:15 PM |
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Thanks for that, got but what I don’t understand is -
If all three engines in my example are measured at the wheels where does this “drop” gear come in and why that make a bike engine measured at 115ftlb
max at the wheels the same as a car engine measured at 160ftlb max at the wheels even if the bike engine is turning 1.5 times more to make what is
less torque? As far as I can tell the rollers are seeing different amounts of torque being applied by the tyres so how does a gearing before the
wheels make these two different measured figures the same.
[Edited on 17/4/19 by Ugg10]
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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russbost
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
Thanks for that, got but what I don’t understand is -
If all three engines in my example are measured at the wheels where does this “drop” gear come in and why that make a bike engine measured at 115ftlb
max at the wheels the same as a car engine measured at 160ftlb max at the wheels even if the bike engine is turning 1.5 times more to make what is
less torque?
Have to say I find this confusing too. The figure I was giving for the ZZR1400 is the figure from the manufacturer & is, I believe, a flywheel
figure.
I too would expect the figure taken on a rolling road at the wheels to be comparable for any car whether it be bike engined or car, but given the
whole torque multiplication thing would this not mean you recorded different output in each gear???
I can only relate real world scenario - I have had the Furore up against some serious kit & it always comes out quicker, against a 5.7L Cobra
which has been rolling roaded, I forget the exact figures for the Cob, but pretty sure BHP at wheels was 385, the torque was either high 200's
or low 300's it weighs around half again what the Furore does, but has more than half again torque & bhp, yet it was still slightly slower
in all scenario's we tried, only thing we didn't try was standing start & absolute top speed. Standing start is a waste of time as
that's more about grip & reaction speed than anything else & top speed well, let's just not go there - one of my customers has had
one well over 150mph confirmed accurate by rpm & gearing I have no particular (death) wish to check that out
I can simply say that the ZZR engine drives more like a car engine than what you would associate with a BEC (I can burble along at 25mph in 6th
gear!), the main difference being that when the car engine stops going anywhere at around 7,000 rpm or less, the ZZR just carries right on thro'
to the max rpm of 11,500 (can be raised further by flashing the ecu!  ). It will also pull away on tickover as long as you have good clutch
control!
I can only guess, but if you put it in a 1000kg car I would still expect probably 4 second, maybe 4.5 sec 0-60, you would need to gear it a little
lower than I have with that sort of weight or would be inclined to bog down off the line.
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Ugg10
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 01:19 PM |
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Thanks for the comment RussBost, glad it is not just me :-)
I guess my experience is at the lower power end but if you take 30-60mph acceleration times (real world usability) the diesel was so much quicker than
the petrol car with the same power and weight (but different torque).
My car engine rule of thumb was 200bhp/ton would give you about 6s 0-60mph. And again for a car engined seven or similar (fury etc.) I always thought
the sweet spot for a road car (that was usable in most conditions) was around the 175hp (600kg car). This was enough so you could drive at
8/10's on the road and not be a danger to yourself or other people (assuming suspension, brakes and big nut behind the steering wheel are up to
the job).
Personally I would expect a 500kg 200hp bike engine car on a track to be much quicker than a 800kg cobra with 400hp, maybe not in that 30-70 test but
in terms of cornering speed and ability to maintain speed at a higher level and reduced braking distances etc. - Colin Chapman "added lightness
- virtuous circle".
As for RPM - I think this is not an issue - if you gear two cars to the same top end, the car engine will reach that at 7k and the bike at 11k - AHHH
- light bulb moment - this may be where the "reduction gear ratio" may come in - Think of lifting a weight with a pulley to a certain
height you expend a certain amount of Kinetic Energy that is equal to the potential energy you are putting into the weight (mgh=1/2mv^2 iirc) so if
you increase the pulley ratio you have to mover the rope quicker to raise the weight to the same height in the same amount of time - same energy
expended.
So, if the bike engine is running 11k but has a lower max torque it will get to the same speed in the same amount of time as a car engine with greater
torque but less RPM.
Is this correct ???
Sorry OP, this has got off topic a bit, I'll shut up now.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 05:42 PM |
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Don't shut up!
This is exactly the discussion I wanted!
I genuinely think that if I'm investing 3+ years on the next project I want to try to get the best steer possible to get enough momentum to
actually do what I set out to do.
And all of this is really helping. It's definitely made my mind up I'm sticking a ZZR motor into something with...
- 4 wheels
- A heater
- Doors
- A roof
- A ZZR1400 motor
- A reverse gear
- RWD
On to sourcing a good donor bike now. Giving me more time to finish the refit of the garage and the choose the donor / base car...
Got to work out now whether I steal a rear subframe from another RWD car and convert it to chain drive while adding an engine mounting to it and then
subsequently mount it into the donor car, or design and manufacture a complete spaceframe rear end to mount both drivetrain, engine and suspension. I
think I've got my next question to open up to the group...
Ta,
Chris.
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 05:57 PM |
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If you want do it properly, you will need to plot some graphs:
http://www.thecartech.com/subjects/auto_eng/Tractive%20Effort.htm
In theory you should be able to trade off revs to gain torque since power is the product of revs and torque.
But in practice I think torque to weight ratio is a factor to.
A BMW 323i e46 with 170hp and 1400ish kg was as quick through 3rd gear as a Lotus Elise 111s with 165hp but only dragging 900kg. The only difference
is that the BMW had 245Nm which is more than the 180-190 of the Elise.
Standing start was a different story ☺
[Edited on 17/4/19 by ettore bugatti]
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russbost
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| posted on 18/4/19 at 07:12 AM |
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"Personally I would expect a 500kg 200hp bike engine car on a track to be much quicker than a 800kg cobra with 400hp, maybe not in that 30-70
test but in terms of cornering speed and ability to maintain speed at a higher level and reduced braking distances etc. - Colin Chapman "added
lightness - virtuous circle"
All the comparisons were simply straightline acceleration, typically 30 - 70, 50 - 70/80, 50 - 100ish, I would have expected the Cob, with that amount
of power & torque to win out at least some of the time & it wasn't a traction issue, warmish weather & dry roads, neither of us
having an issue getting the power down. The only thing it's been beaten by in straight acceleration are 1000cc plus bikes & even then only
modern ones, it was pretty much equal with an early R1. I just find the ZZR1400 a gobsmacking motor - the only downside when compared to the
'Busa is that there's very little tuning gear available for it - maybe 'cos in the bike you'd be nuts to want it
(doesn't stop peeps tuning 'Busa's tho' ....)
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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froggy
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| posted on 18/4/19 at 07:47 AM |
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Around blyton my 850kg v8 roadster with 450hp stays with busa powered cars pretty well reeling in any corner speed and braking advantage over the Lap
. On the long straight there’s nothing in it as I’ve got to brake earlier , on the road the acceleration from 90+ my car would stride away with
400+lbft all the way from 2-6k
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
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AdamR20
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| posted on 19/4/19 at 08:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
Stuff
That's how I see it too, everything you've written actually!
Been thinking about the whole dyno plot BEC drop gear thing the last couple of days and you're right, the dyno is trying to measure flywheel
power so surely this is after the reduction gear? Either way all I know is BECs are fast and don't suffer from lack of torque, whether
that's weight or the reduction gear I don't care
IME if you take two cars of the same bhp/ton, the lighter one will always be faster round a track, unless it has stupidly long straights and not many
corners. I have a 1700kg 500bhp car and despite very good straight line pace, handling dynamics from Italy's finest F1 team and carbon brakes
twice the size of your average kit car, its a dog in the corners and on the brakes compared with the kit cars I've had, you just can't
disguise all that weight.
[Edited on 19/4/19 by AdamR20]
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 19/4/19 at 08:44 PM |
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It seems the general population think BECs are a waste of time!
Och well, I don't want my next project to be entirely based on logic...
https://www.minitorque.com/forum/f10/rwd-r53-zzr1400-engine-206335/
http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=38738
Just need to try to find some way of getting other ideas on what donor car rear ends are worth considering for this.
Maybe I just shouldn't mention motorbikes?!
C.
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 19/4/19 at 10:00 PM |
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There was an DVD where somebody went through the complete process of building a Z-cars Mini should give you some pointers on the engineering bits.
I think converting a FWD shell to midengined rear wheel drive setup is probably not the way if you are really concerned about noise and comfort on the
motorway.
Also the modern cars have more electronics (CAN Bus) which are more difficult to adapt integrate with the engine change. So I would steer away from
most modern cars, unless you go for a wiring loom from scratch.
A GTM Libra might be another candidate to convert.
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