shortie
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 11:20 AM |
|
|
Blade Gearchange
Connected all the blade and wondered if I should take up the slack in the linkage by adjusting it at the engine end a bit, just wondering at what
point the actual gearchange starts in the engine, i.e. how much slack is there on the lever before the engine tries to change the gear?
Hope that makes sense, I just feel there's quite alot of play in the change at the moment.
thanks,
Rich.
|
|
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 01:08 PM |
|
|
Are you measuring the slack from your gear lever, or from the selector shaft on the bike?
I dont think adjusting it at the bike end will make any difference, all you'd be doing there is moving your linkage (and gear lever) back and
forward. The only way to take slack out is to make sure the linkage itself is sufficiently tightened up etc, and you may need to play around with the
pivot points of the lever to get the right amount of throw, if your lever throw is more than about 25 degrees either way then it probalby will start
to feel a bit spongey and inprecise.
On the selector shaft itself there is some movement before a change occurs, but the shift itself is a very pronounced click into place so you
you'll know when you actually select a gear. If the engine isnt running though you usually get a box of neutrals or cant change out of the
current gear as the shafts generally need to be spinning to make it change. If you're not ready to run it yet, try rocking/spinning the gearbox
output shaft whilst selecting a gear as it may provide enough movement to sucessfully engage a cog.
HTH
Chris
[Edited on 2/2/05 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 01:34 PM |
|
|
Thanks Chris, I feel the click no problem as it goes into gear and was thinking of taking up some of the spring on the selector shaft before the click
but didn't want to do this if it will cause a problem in the box.
I think the best thing is to see how it goes and adjust accordingly, the pivot point of the lever will change anyway as I am going to make my own
lever with a longer bit under the pivot.
Engine should be running this weekend as we are going to give it a fair run so that it gets to temp and we can test all the sensors etc.
I want to run it without it firing first, is it best to just remove the plug leads and crank it or will that cause an issue?
thanks,
Rich.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 02:22 PM |
|
|
Im not sure how you would take up the spring in the shaft anyway to be honest, the "slack" you feel on the selector shaft is surely the
internals of the boxthemselves and not something you could adjust?
Yep, to turn it over for the first time, just pull the plugs or preferably take the plugs out altogether to create less resistance to the starter,
other than that it should be fine.
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 02:48 PM |
|
|
At what point should the oil pressure light go out? when cranking the engine or only once it fires?
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 03:08 PM |
|
|
The light triggers at quite a low pressure (something under 10psi) so Id expect it to go out just with cranking, but it may take quite a long time (up
to a minute according to some of the RGB racers who have rebuilt engines) if the engine hasnt run for quite a while - a bit of a nailbiter but it
should be fine.
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 2/2/05 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
Cheers Chris, a welath of knowledge as ever.
thanks,
Rich.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 3/2/05 at 09:16 AM |
|
|
As a side note, because the oil pressure light goes out at such a low pressure, I would strongly suggest that people running their cars on track get a
seperate pressure gauge with a configurable warning pressure. As I found out when I lost my sump plug on my first track day 3 years ago, the light
doesnt come on until the engine is virtually emptied of oil and running absolutely no oil pressure, at which time the damage is already done. The
reason that Honda make it trigger so low is that hot idle is only around 8-10psi so if it was any higher then it would come on whenever idling
normally which would obviously unduly worry the average road bike rider. This does happen with my SPA gauge but Id rather it flash at me at idle than
suffer oil starvation at higher revs and not know it was about to happen. As its a presure gauge too, I can always glance at the gauge and check that
everything is normal whilst idling anyway.
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 3/2/05 at 10:00 AM |
|
|
Good advice Chris, I have a seperate oil pressure sensor connected via a y-piece on a braided hose which reports to the digidash which has a
confirgurable oil pressure alarm.
Thinking about it what's the best pressure to set the alarm to??
Rich.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 3/2/05 at 10:25 AM |
|
|
I run mine at around 3 bar on track, it never drops below about 4.5 bar unless you're cruising around. On the road I set it to around 2 bar.
The braided hose is a good thing too, as the pressure senders seem to quickly fail if bolted directly into the engine.
I think on the Digidash though, you can actually set revs / pressure parameters so for example you can tell it to only warn you if the pressure is
below X AND the rpm is below Y, therefore allowing a lower warning at lower revs and a higher warning at higher revs which is the best of both
worlds.
[Edited on 3/2/05 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 3/2/05 at 11:32 AM |
|
|
Thanks Chris that's great
|
|
|
