woodsy144
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| posted on 17/10/22 at 05:32 AM |
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Yamaha R1 + baffle plate - oil catch can?
Hello All,
Got a '08 Yamaha r1 in the back of a middy with a baffle plate.
I have been trying to find information about oil catch cans, as the baffle plate instructions stated the need for it.
1. Is it necessary?
2. Plumbing? how to plumb it up?
3. Location specific? ie does it have to be above engine?
4. size??
5. examples?
Any help would be great
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 17/10/22 at 10:29 AM |
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1. Driving on the road, going shopping, down the pub., etc., No, it isn't necessary, you won't need it, but it's a good idea. Take the
car on a track and yes, it's an absolute necessity. At the high rpm range (these engines are still have the best noise in my opinion, more so the
20V 5VY), the oil will blow out the breather at a rate that has to be seen to be believed. Mains and rod bearings will fail very quickly.
2. Breather from engine top (if you're really going for it, otherwise these can be blocked off) and crankcase to header tank. Outlet from top of
tank area to a catch tank (track requirement). Return from bottom of tank to sump.
3. Gravity is required for the sump return, mount the tank high. I guess you could use a pump if not (I have no experience of that suggestion).
4. See the picture, this is a Jedi R1 factory install (my ex-Jedi).
5. Picture again.
I do have a complete Jedi factory installation sitting in a box. I'm keeping it for that next project that I'll probably abandon again....
so if you're looking a solution... you never know.
 
Description
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woodsy144
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| posted on 17/10/22 at 09:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
1. Driving on the road, going shopping, down the pub., etc., No, it isn't necessary, you won't need it, but it's a good idea. Take the
car on a track and yes, it's an absolute necessity. At the high rpm range (these engines are still have the best noise in my opinion, more so the
20V 5VY), the oil will blow out the breather at a rate that has to be seen to be believed. Mains and rod bearings will fail very quickly.
2. Breather from engine top (if you're really going for it, otherwise these can be blocked off) and crankcase to header tank. Outlet from top of
tank area to a catch tank (track requirement). Return from bottom of tank to sump.
3. Gravity is required for the sump return, mount the tank high. I guess you could use a pump if not (I have no experience of that suggestion).
4. See the picture, this is a Jedi R1 factory install (my ex-Jedi).
5. Picture again.
I do have a complete Jedi factory installation sitting in a box. I'm keeping it for that next project that I'll probably abandon again....
so if you're looking a solution... you never know.
Description
Thanks for the info.
So to confirm, you dont have any lines going back into the air box.
You have two feeds into the catch can, one from top of bottom end, and the second one from the top of the head.
Then the feed is gravity feed back to sump?
My initial thinking was to connect these two lines to a generic 500ml catch can, and then vent back into airbox as per original condition. Making sure
I have sight glass on can to check volume.
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woodsy144
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| posted on 18/10/22 at 12:24 AM |
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@motorcycle_mayhem - how did you manage the feed into the sump? it appears you are using braided lines with speed flow (or similar) fittings?
My initial thinking would be that this isn't required due to low pressure and in your application more about heat, is that correct?
Happy to be educated as this is my first rodeo.
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/10/22 at 09:10 AM |
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I think it's more of an issue with an inline install than transverse one but here's an old thread...
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=113841&page=1
A search for "R1 breather" and my user name brought it up along with a load more. My bottle does breath back to the airbox but I've
seen others that vent to atmos'
[Edited on 18/10/22 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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