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Author: Subject: HELP!! Fireblade engine won't fire!!!
shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 04:22 PM Reply With Quote
HELP!! Fireblade engine won't fire!!!

Had the fireblade engine fired up a while ago and all was well. Engine has been out the car and now have it back in but it turns over but will not fire.

Have checked for a spark and there isn't one. Checked continuity on wires and all are ok but then tried testing the pulse generator to see if there is resistance and there is none.

I suspect it may therefore be the pulse generator but wondered if anyone else has had this issue or if anyone has any other ideas.

The only other thing is the CDI but as the manual says there should be resistance across the two pulse generator waires it tends to point to this.

Any ideas of help would be most appreciated.

thanks
Rich (very frustrated!!!!!)

[Edited on 6/2/05 by shortie]

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
Rich,
I'll drop in with spares if your stuck..I'll be passing this week.

cheers
Colin





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ChrisGamlin

posted on 6/2/05 at 05:54 PM Reply With Quote
What year of engine /loom is it? If its a 98/99 then check that you havent blown the resistor that sits on the pink wire in the back of the ignition barrel. If you have then I think you'll need to solder in a new 390ohm reisistor.

Chris






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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry should have said, it's a 1994 RRR 893 engine.

Also should have mentioned that intially the wires on the pulse gen were connected the wrong way round so maybe I have blown something!

If it does turn out to be the pulse generator then what sort of price are we looking at??

Rich.

[Edited on 6/2/05 by shortie]

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Wadders

posted on 6/2/05 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
Rich
from what you describe, i'd be suprised if any of the ignition components have become faulty while stood, more likely to be something you have missed while reconnecting everything.
Re-check all connections, chances are it will be something simple like a missed earth or dodgy plug.

Al

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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:13 PM Reply With Quote
I know what you mean Al but I have tested all the earths and wires for continuity and they all seem to be fine.

The only thing that seemed to be not reading correctly was the resisitance across the pulse gen, obviously I can't check the CDI but no reason why that should not work.

Rich.

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phil_far

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:29 PM Reply With Quote
I went through this trauma as well. I had no spark. It resulted in one of the connector pins of the CDI connector that was 'open' and closed it with a long nose plier. Also check that the engine is in neutral if you have not by passed the clutch swith. I had both conditions. Check the fuses in the main fuse box. The pulse generator should give you a reading when cranking the engine only. I forgot the value though. Short the green/white with green on the big connector of the clutch switch

i have a check list of all this stuff that I can e-mail it if you want. However I am more than sure that it is a wire/connector issue since I went through the same thing.

Good luck





Philip

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:33 PM Reply With Quote
As another daft thought Rich, have you checked the fuse in the starter solenoid...I think it supplies the power to the CDi.....
are you getting any power to it at all?





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Wadders

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
dunno the first thing about blades, but on the z, the wire to the ecu (pink on a honda according to chris) that needs a resistor, has +12v going to it , is this the case?
only reason i ask, is because i mistakenly earthed mine first time round.
Do blades also have a sidestand or neutral switch to short out?

Al.






Rich.

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phil_far

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:38 PM Reply With Quote
Rich,
Yes they do and both need to be earthed. I sepnt three months going round in circles until I realized that the clutch swith was not actually shorted! I was going to order anotehr CDI as even one of the local 'bike wizards' got confused.





Philip

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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:45 PM Reply With Quote
Phil,

If you can email the list that would be great, will double check all the wiring as like most of you I reckon it is most likely to be something silly.

Clutch\neutral & sidestand switches are earthed out the circuit, fuel cut-out relay is also not used and we've tested that it is pumping the fuel to the engine.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
do you have power at the cdi?





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
I think you may be right Colin, I think in cutting out the fuel relay I may have therefore cut the power to the CDI unit, doh!!

I have put the latest wiring diagram in my photo archive, think that may be the problem!!

Any chance someone could take a look and confirm.

I'm sure it should have a feed and it hasn't as far as I can see!

ta,
Rich.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
cant find it mate...





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 08:03 PM Reply With Quote
sorry, just trying to post it, I'll link to it, hold on
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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
Here we go

http://www.shortshouse.plus.com/WiringDiagramv8.pdf

ta,
Rich.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
right....here goes...


try this.....
there is No feed to the cdi....you need a wire from your Black ignition wire (coming from fusebox) to E2 black and white wire....





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:00 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Colin,

New diagram here http://www.shortshouse.plus.com/WiringDiagramv9.pdf

Hopefully this should sort the 12v issue to the CDI.

I have also spoken to Chris Mason and discussed about the clutch diode, appears I may have to put this back in otherwise it will stall when it goes into gear so I will look at that aswell.

Rich.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
I found also that if I didn't use the diode I had no neutral light...so maybe you should wire it as per honda.

ie light green from cdi leads to neutral switch with a branch off to the diode.

your neutral light instead goes to the diode with a green/red wire - not straight from the dash to neutral switch





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:19 PM Reply With Quote
Think I might do that, that is basically what Chris said, I do get a neutral from the neutral switch to the digidash but may also put a neutral light on the dash

Really appreciate your help mate and everyone who has replied, what would I do without this forum!!!

I'll let you know how I get on tommorrow!

thanks again,
Rich.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
No problem, good to help.... now back to my late tax return

gimme a call tomorrow if your having problems...sounds like it's nearly there though





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
Tax returns, hate them!! did mine just before the deadline, mind you they wrote to me to say they aren't going to bother sending them to me anymore !!

thanks again, will call you tommorrow if I have a problem.

Rich.

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colibriman

posted on 6/2/05 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
once it's running all the hassle will be worth it....I took mine out for a wee dust off today... just a couple of miles...

lovely day up here again....strangely nice weather in Scotland just now....

need to get the odds and sods finished and find an SVA...





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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 10:24 PM Reply With Quote
Right, updated the diagram now, will try this tommorrow and see.

Complete Wiring Diagram :- http://www.shortshouse.plus.com/WiringDiagramv10.pdf

Ignition Circuit :- http://www.shortshouse.plus.com/Ignition%20Circuit.pdf

Rich.

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shortie

posted on 6/2/05 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
Colin,

Whereabouts down this way are you on Wed?

Rich.

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