tks
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| posted on 20/3/05 at 07:55 PM |
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Changeing gear on BEC
Hi guys,
i was wondering,
wich technics are we all using to change gears (upwards and downwards)???
do we use clutch do go from 1 to 2 etc...???
is it healthy to do?
what is better useing clutch or don't???
TKS
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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mac1ZR
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| posted on 20/3/05 at 08:16 PM |
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from wat i can gather its ok to change gear without using clutch,just use clutch to start/stop.i've ridden bikes like that and it works fine.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 20/3/05 at 08:17 PM |
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Depends how i'm driving, i allways use the clutch for going down the box, when pottering around i use the clutch to change up, when going full
pelt clutchless upshifts.
There are some very nice electronic gadgets for clucthless downshifts, unfortunatley banned in the RGB series but i heard at least 2 cars using them
today going down 5 gears for the hairpin
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tks
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| posted on 20/3/05 at 08:28 PM |
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:D:D
i'm currently devopning such a system
and wanted to know if i need to program the clutch in it or not...
will make a sport button / option for it..
TKS
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 10:14 AM |
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I would certainly recommend it on the downshift and probably 1st - 2nd, but 2nd up to 6th is ok without as long as you do it positively and
accurately.
Chris
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 10:23 AM |
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This link may help:
Hewland
Not a bike box, but the same principles apply.
David
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 10:49 AM |
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Yup, good link! The first part of the "Manual" method is exactly how I change, pull on the lever to put a bit of load on the linkage, then
when wanting to change momentarily lift and pull the gear as quick as possible.
Chris
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Coose
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 12:11 PM |
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Which is exactly what Mick Doohan used to do on his NSR500 and was actually timed to be quicked than a quickshift!!!
Just remind me again why he was GP500 champion umpteem times..... 
Good link though, and well explained for those who don't have a bike background! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 12:44 PM |
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Hijack time - Have you got your wiring sorted yet Coose?
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Coose
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 01:05 PM |
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Woo hoo! I do like a good hijack.....
Nah, the clocks are most definitely at fault... 
The difference in fan control between the '01 & the '03 is down to the fact that temperature is incorporated into your fuelling due to
it being an injected motor, thus the fan control coming from the ECU. Whereas on an '01 there is no fuelling control, hence the fan switching
via the clocks... The earlier R1's used a seperate fan switch, but this changed in 2000.
I have a few options really, one being to try and repair my clocks, which will mean taking them to someone who has more electronics knowledge than me
and not having my car on the road for a bit. The next one is to live with the manual fan (which I will do for the time being), the next is to utilise
the fan switch as already fitted to the TL1000R rad which I'm using, and the last is to pick up a set of damaged clocks and transfer the innards
into mine....
But, as I said in my thread, if anyone has any suggestions please shout out! better do it on my thread rather than here though so as not to upset
anyone.... 
Cheers for asking Chris!
Spin 'er off Well...
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dern
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| posted on 21/3/05 at 02:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Yup, good link! The first part of the "Manual" method is exactly how I change, pull on the lever to put a bit of load on the linkage, then
when wanting to change momentarily lift and pull the gear as quick as possible.
I'm no where near completing my bec but have been riding
bikes for a few years. I always use the clutch for down changes. The only bike I've had which seemed comfortable with clutchless downchanges was
a gpz1100e1 (detuned zzr1100 engine) and even then it was only at low rpm (below 5000). I always use the clutch for 1st-2nd changes unless I'm
really pressing on (the blade is good for 80 in 1st) but don't really like doing it because it can upset the bike, especially mid-corner. Any
other upward change I generally use the clutch unless I'm pressing on (this means I use the clutch roughly 50% of the time). To change up I
weight the lever upwards with my foot and then let off the throttle for a fraction of a second and then slam the throttle open again and the box will
effectively change itself. If I use the clutch then I use exactly the same technique but between putting pressure on the lever and letting of the
throttle I pull the clutch in a bit (never fully, I only ever open the clutch fully on downchanges) and then roll of and on and release the clutch and
lastly take the pressure of the foot lever.
The only boxes I had problems with were kawasaki boxes. My ZXR750 had quite a few false nuetrals in it at unpredictable times and my zx6r lost a
selector after only 2000 miles from new. My current bike is a blade and is pretty clunky but just soaks all the abuse up.
Ultimately though, clutches are cheap and easy to fix and gearboxes are not so unless I want to press on I use a touch of clutch.
Regards,
Mark
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