adam_moore
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 07:44 AM |
|
|
Blade Starting
I got round to (trying) to start my blade engine for the first time this weekend...
1. No Spark. The fuel pump relay didn't fire either so i guess there might be a wiring or ECU problem (i think the two are related). Anyone got
any ideas before i start to investigate.
2. Whilst cranking, there is an arcing type sound coming from the alternator casing. Not sure if this is normal / a wiring problem. I'll try
without it connected to see is the same happens. Again, anyone know what this might be?
3. Fuel pump makes plenty of noise but doesn't suck any fuel?
Any help or hints would be much appreciated!
|
|
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 10:12 AM |
|
|
Hi Adam
Ive got a startup checklist I wrote when I first started mine a couple of years ago, drop me an email and I'll send it to you when I get
home.
The fuel pump does either sound broken or plumbed in the wrong way round, which obviously won't help.
What year engine is it out of interest?
Chris
Chris
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 10:12 AM |
|
|
No spark points to the safety electronics like footpeg down neautral etc... are these checked to be ok?
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 11:15 AM |
|
|
Yup, Id agree, either side stand, clutch switch or stop switch ISTR.
Its all stuff from about 3 years ago for me hence why I didnt mention it as I couldnt quite remember exactly which wires need modding, although all
the wiring details are in my startup checklist.
Chris
|
|
|
adam_moore
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 12:04 PM |
|
|
I tried plumbing the pump in different ways but it still didn't pump. Running it from a gerry can at the moment so the pump is above the fuel
level. Will it need priming to get it started? Someone suggested it needs fuel to pump correctly and won't work if its pumping air?
I've bodged the clutch switch, neutral switch and side stand switch (i think) but i guess thats the first place to start. Is there an easy check
on the ECU with a multimeter to check if its correct? I've simple spliced wires together to close the relevant switches.
I didn't think it would turn over without these being correct but from what you've said it just cuts ignition and allows it to turn over
without firing the fuel cutoff relay or coils.
Its an RRP by the way.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 12:39 PM |
|
|
Yep it will still turn over if the sidestand switch etc is open, just won't spark.
Are you sure you have an RRP loom to go with the engine? The reason I say this is because the RRW/X loom has an additional "anti theft
device" built in, which is basically a pink wire and a 390ohm resistor in the back of the ignition barrel. Have a look to see if you have a pink
wire in your loom, if so then you might need to put in a resister across it to fool the ECU.
Also have you checked your engine is earthed properly, you need a proper earth strap from it to make anything work.
As to the fuel pump, it needs to be gravity fed fuel, I dont think it will pull fuel up above the tank level. Also, is it pulling or pushing (ie is
it at the back or front of the car?) If its at the front pulling you might need to prime it somehow anyway. You could do what I did when first testing
and bypass the fuel system totally, just rig up something that can deliver a bit of fuel into the carbs (something like a drinks bottle upside down
that will push onto the fuel pipes near the carbs), then you take the pump and the rest of the fuel side out of the equation.
Chris
[Edited on 21/3/05 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
adam_moore
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 02:04 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the info...I'll try all the above tonight if i get a chance. Something to note on the earthing point....I originally used the earth
strap to the rear bolt under the starter motor but the motor would't do anything. I am currently earthing directly to the block with a jump lead
between a rib on the crank case and the battery -ve which seems to work fine. The earth in the loom is connected by a rivnut to the engine subframe
(where my coils will sit when I've got some longer HT leads). I wonder if this earth needs to be better, pehaps to the engine?
Your bottle idea is exactly what we tried suspended over the engine, fitted the floats but didn't draw any through cos it didn't fire.
hopefully, i'll find that there isn't continuity in the safety system
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 02:30 PM |
|
|
A rivnut probably isnt the best for an earth to be honest, I would bolt it directly to a bare part of the chassis so the earth lead is itself touching
the chassis, not going though the rivnut etc. Also, is the engine subframe earthed to the chassis, or going through rubber bushes etc?
|
|
|
adam_moore
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 02:43 PM |
|
|
I think its best to earth to the engine for the purposes of this test. And make sure that everything is earthed as it should be.
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 21/3/05 at 06:24 PM |
|
|
I earthed mine direct to the same point that the main earth goes to which is a hole drilled through the passenger footwell and the powder cote rubbed
back so it gets good contact with the chassis.
I used an unused engine mount on the engine to connect the earth to.
HTH,
Rich.
|
|
|
adam_moore
|
| posted on 22/3/05 at 07:40 AM |
|
|
Thanks for the document Chris...after stripping out only the essential wires last night and looking at the wiring carefully and your document i
realised where my problem lies (i think). I have the ignition set-up ok but to start I have the red/yellow going to the black but i haven't used
the black/white so i have no power to the coils.
so you have to close the stop switch and then press the start switch. If i were using a barrel switch, position 1=ignition, 2=close stop switch
3=start then...?
|
|
|
