GeoffB
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 04:14 PM |
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SLIDING UJ JOINT..LOOSE
MAYBE I'VE MISSED SOMETHING,,BUT WHEN I'VE CONNECTED THE SLIDING UJ JOINT ON THE END OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT.
I CAN STILL SLIDE THE JOINT BACK AND FORTH AND OFF THE SPLINED SHAFT ON THE ENGINE (FIREBLADE)COMPLETLY..??
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 04:16 PM |
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Sounds like you havent used a bolt to hold the prop adapter onto the engine output shaft!
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GeoffB
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 04:27 PM |
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YOU ARE CORRECT..A GOLDSTAR ON YOUR BADGE SIR..DOES IT BOLT THROUGH THE ADAPTOR FLANGE INTO THE MIDDLE(IE BULLSEYE) OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT ON THE ENGINE
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 04:55 PM |
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Yep, you need to bolt the flange onto the engine first with the bolt that used to hold the sprocket on, then bolt the prop up to the flange
afterwards.
When you bolt the flange on the output shaft make sure there isnt any lateral movement at all, it should be a tight fit and not be able to slide. If
it can slide you may need to source a spacer shim to go between the flange and the bolt to keep it all tightened up. Also some good threadlock on the
flange bolt would be advised, you dont want it coming undone 
Chris
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colibriman
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 05:27 PM |
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Once bolted up mine needed a 2mm spacer fitted with the adaptor flange (as Chris said)...without it there was a horrible amount of wobble and movement
of the flange which led to a lot of prop noise - very worrying
Again, as Chris said, threadlock on the bolt is an absolute MUST...!!
HTH
Colin
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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shortie
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 05:28 PM |
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Geoff,
If it's the sliding propshaft adapter you are talking about then it has a collar that you tighten up (it's the knurled bit). Use a pair
of mole grips to tighten it and it should then not slide back and forward on the propshaft.
If it's the actual sprocket adapter moving then as Chris says you will need a small spacer, I have a few of different thicknesses that are doing
the rounds, when I get them back from Colibriman I will send them to you and you can use one of them that fits to stop the sprocket adapter moving.
HTH,
Rich.
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colibriman
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 05:32 PM |
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Rich,
The spacers went in the post earlier today...you hopefully will have them in the morning...and the beer tokens 
Huge difference a piddly little 2mm spacer made.....
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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shortie
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 05:37 PM |
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Glad it helped Colin, better get some more made up, seems like there may be a run on them
Rich.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 06:09 PM |
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You can have the swarf off the back of my one, as to fit it to the R1 engine it needs to be turned down a few mm
BTW Colin, YHu2u
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GeoffB
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| posted on 30/3/05 at 07:00 AM |
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DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT SIZE AND THREAD PITCH THE BOLT IS THAT GOES INTO THE SHAFT AS I DIDNT HAVE ONE ON MY ENGINE..?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 30/3/05 at 10:05 AM |
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I cant remember off the top of my head, its either M8 or M10, and has a fine thread - Im sure someone will clarify
It might be best to get one from a Honda dealer to make sure you get the right size / depth / strength of bolt anyway.
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Coose
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| posted on 30/3/05 at 12:08 PM |
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Seconded. An R1 sprocket nut from Yamaha is about £2, so there's absolutely no point messing about!
Spin 'er off Well...
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tks
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| posted on 3/4/05 at 02:51 PM |
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yes....
it is M10 thread 125 metric.
the diff ones are M10 100 metric (for comparison)
it is this on my Honda VFR...
TKS
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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