Ben Smith
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| posted on 30/5/05 at 11:25 AM |
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R1 engine fitting
Have bought the engine for the new car (just got to sell old car now!) and want to know what mods you would advise before fitting. Such as sump baffle
and uprated clutch etc. Any particular makes of parts to use and avoid. This is my 1st BEC build (2nd kit build) so any help you could give would be
great.
Thanks
Ben.
[Edited on 30/5/05 by Ben Smith]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 30/5/05 at 11:32 AM |
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Mainly copied from a U2U I just sent Chris Mason(cos Im lazy and want to get out in the garage!)
You can get baffle plates from Paul Rogers on the Yahoo BEC list, drop me an email if you cant find his address.
Regarding the clutch, the R1 has a diaphragm spring rather than coil spring like the blade and most other BEC suitable bikes. What some have done is
to just put in an additional diaphragm spring to strengthen it all up which seems to work OK. Personally Ive gone belt and braces and got myself a
Barnett spring conversion kit which is basically a new pressure plate that uses 6 coil springs rather than the diaphragm spring. This is meant to be
what the sidecar guys etc recommend as the best solution although its another £120 or so on top, and as I said quite a few people have just doubled up
on the existing spring and had no problems so it might be something to try first if you want to keep initial costs down.
Also you might want to tap the centre of the big gold coloured bolt that holds the oil/water cooler on for an oil pressure gauge sender if
you're fitting one, although there are a couple of other places you can take pressure from.
Other than that, I cant think of anything. Id do the baffle plate install once in the car anyway, you need to drill and tap a small hole into the
crankcase webbing to fix the plate (not as scary as it sounds), and by doing it whilst in the car, all the swarf natually falls away from the engine
rather than into it if doing it on its side on the bench.
[Edited on 30/5/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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Coose
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| posted on 2/6/05 at 08:10 AM |
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Or you could use JB7's baffle....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10490&item=7976445828&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
I have one and also know the chap quite well - his work is of the highest standard! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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Ferrino
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| posted on 2/6/05 at 11:01 AM |
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Yep, JB7's baffle plates are of excellent quality 
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progers
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| posted on 2/6/05 at 01:20 PM |
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R1 sump baffle
Just thought I'd mention that mine, like JB7's is an improved version of what was sold by Allbikes. Both are good, only difference is that
mine can be had for £30 inc P+P, a benefit of having a batch made by more cost effective laser cutter. Piccy attached.
One of my baffles is currently installed in a race R1 Phoenix which is competing in the 750MC RGB series. So far, no problems with surge.
Regards
Paul
 
Rescued attachment Plate fitted2_sm.JPG
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locoboy
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| posted on 2/6/05 at 09:37 PM |
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Paul does your baffle plate come with a pressure relief tulip?
If so can you U2U me your address so i can send you a cheque for one.
Thanks
ATB
Locoboy
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progers
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| posted on 3/6/05 at 08:28 AM |
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Relief Tulip
Hi Locoboy,
I do not normally offer the PRV tulip as I believe it is of limited practical use. I'll explain why. I have several datalogs of the oil pressure
in an R1 engine and when cold (and oil thick) the pressure can indeed get above 75-80psi and the PRV would be in operation. However, once hot (and the
oil thin) the pressure drops to around 65psi when you are on full chat, dropping much lower when not thrashing the engine. As the PRV opens around
75-80psi the amount of oil being diverted through the PRV is relativey small and the effect of putting a tulip on will have very limited effect. What
oil does escape through the PRV will still easily find its way back into the sump. So far I have not seen any surge issues running without a PRV tulip
(I had an Indy R1 and used it on many trackdays with sticky ACB10 tyres).
Having said all that, if people absolutely want one then I can do it for an additional £5.
Hope that helps
Paul
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