ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 05:42 PM |
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Prop Flanges
I know that most of the kit car manufacturers will supply prop flanges but has anyone got any pics of the ones from the likes of MNR, ST, MK etc?
I think Im going to need to get a new prop flange because my current blade one has been heat treated making it almost impossible to machine down to
fit the R1 using normal lathe tools etc. I could get it ground down but that will probably cost more than buying a new one and flogging my old one!
Also does anyone know which ones have threaded bolt holes for the prop bolts, and which ones have untapped holes which use locking nuts on the
back?
Chris
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Peteff
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 05:59 PM |
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My zx9 one from MNR has tapped holes. There isn't room for a nut on the back as the holes are too near the sides of the centre boss.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 06:05 PM |
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Chris,
look at Ebay item 4554504164
(Sorry, don't know how to do links!)
I bought one of these for my 'blade engine but he does them for R1's etc. as well.
Came quickly and seems a nice bit of kit.
Andy.
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 06:12 PM |
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i bet its that guy called chris... he has a link to a website selling them for £55.
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tks
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 06:53 PM |
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undo the threatment..
you can undo the threatment
if you heat up your part...and then let it cooling down by normal ambient temperature....(the slower the better)
in that way the carbon parts will restore to their original position...
and then you can use the lathe.easyly..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 08:09 PM |
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Cheers all
I guess its this website you're talking about for £55?
They look good quality but his are threaded too, and ideally Im after one that isnt threaded. Being threaded makes it a right pain in the ar$e to do
the bolts up as they interfere with the prop UJ knuckles when first going in, and makes taking the prop on/off take about 3 x longer than it could if
it had plain holes and you could do a nut up on the back.
Cheers for the suggestion TKS, wouldnt it then need to be hardened again after lathing though, how would I do this, heat up and quench?
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andy d (rizla)
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 08:18 PM |
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mine from mnr (blade) are bolts with lock nuts on the rear
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 08:21 PM |
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Ah OK, so MNR might be an option then. I did call them on Saturday but someone had the last one off the shelf that morning (anyone here guilty?!! 
). I didnt ask if it was threaded but will give them a call tomorrow and see.
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tks
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 09:04 PM |
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Yes
exactly...
and in water may go to fast....( i have seen them doing it..)
but you could also use old motor oil etc..
put it red hot and then in the oil....
like you do on sundays with the egs..(look a like)
i'm sure that there are some web sites
wich will give you a better step by step guide...
however to take down my original bike sprocket they did it over here that way..
(the tooth are where hardened)...
they heated it up quite hot..and then just turned of the machine and waited 1 day etc..
my sprocket isn't heated is it nececary??
when you heat it it will be less flexier...
Tks
[Edited on 5/6/05 by tks]
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 09:11 PM |
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Cheers Chris, I could probably get mine modded locally either by grinding or by doing what TKS suggested by re-heat treating it, but its probably
going to cost more than buying a new one (£55-60) then selling my old one, and i'd still end up with a flange that had was threaded which I
couldnt change because there isnt enough room to put nuts on the back of mine, which is I suspect the same with some of the other threaded ones.
I'll give MK and MNR a call tomorrow and see how we go.
cheers
Chris
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Peteff
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 11:46 PM |
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do the bolts up as they interfere with the prop UJ
Get some allen head cap screws just long enough to go through both with a washer under the head, they go in a lot easier and don't foul the
u.j.
[Edited on 5/6/05 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 08:39 AM |
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Chris - I'd be interested in your old one if that makes any difference ;-)
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Alez
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 08:45 AM |
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The one in my factory built Stuart Taylor Blade hasn't got threads, it has bolts + nuts. It's fastened to the engine via the big bolt I hold
in the pic.
Cheers,
Alex
 
[Edited on 6/6/05 by Alez]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 09:18 AM |
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Cheers Alex, it looks like they all chop and change supplier then because my ST one is threaded! 
Regarding the cap head bolts Pete, Ive tried both those and normal hex, and both interfere with the UJ when first going into the hole. The only way to
stop this happening would be to shorten down the bolts but then they wouldnt pass all the way through the flange which Im not keen on doing. Its my
prop thats the issue, I think maybe its got larger than normal UJ knuckles or something. Also on one bolt, where they put the grease nipple is right
in the way too, making it even more difficult for that one.
Pat - yep I just want to make sure i can get another one first, but first dibs is yours.
cheers
Chris
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Ferrino
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 11:22 AM |
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When fixing the threaded-type adapters, is it a case of a liberal helping of studlock and a spring washer? Also, what torque should be used for
the M8 bolts that are used?
Ta.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 12:34 PM |
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Yep, thats it basically. Not sure on the torque, about as tight as you can get em with a 3/8th ratchet seems to do the trick tho
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Peteff
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 12:47 PM |
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both interfere with the UJ
I found they will all go easier in one certain position as the angle widens as you turn the prop then closes on the opposite side. The allen key was
just easier to get past the joint knuckles.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 01:10 PM |
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Yep, they will all go with a bit of juggling with the prop into the right position, but its this that takes the time / wears down the patience so
would rather just use nuts n bolts making it a lot quicker, which will mean I'll be more enthusiastic to take it off occasionally to check the
centre bolt is still tight!
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Alez
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 02:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlinwhich will mean I'll be more enthusiastic to take it off occasionally to check the centre bolt is
still tight!
My centre bolt had come loose, it was lying inside the flange. Plus a couple of nuts (of the 4 the flange has) were not tight. Plus I had no locking
bolt where the 2 sections of the propshaft join. That's a lesson learnt, I'm now more than enthusiastic to check these things from time to
time.
Cheers,
Alex
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