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Author: Subject: Clutch Cable
chrisf

posted on 2/5/06 at 05:01 PM Reply With Quote
Clutch Cable

Against ChrisG's advice, I used a mountain bike cable for my clutch. Try as I may, I cannot get the cable to stop slowly slipping at the peddle. As you can imagine, this is a right pain to constantly tighten. So I'm now in the market for a new cable.

I've noticed some of you guys use a cable fitting with two grub screws. What are these called? Do they work well or does the cable eventually come loose.

Is there an off-the-shelf cable that works well with the 'blade motor? I had a westie jobbie but tossed it because the big white piece on the end interfered with a chassis rail. Now I wish I would have kept it.

--Chris

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 2/5/06 at 05:23 PM Reply With Quote
Tut tut

I think the westfield ones are based on Mk2/3 Cortina clutch cables anyway, like this one, I dont know if you can source those in the US?

What you might want to look at doing is if you have a spare clutch release arm, is getting the lever moved around and re-welded so you can pull the clutch in a straight line from the drivers footwell, rather than having to loop it round the front of the engine and pull in the conventional direction (trying to find a pic.....)

[Edited on 2/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]






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ChrisGamlin

posted on 2/5/06 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
Edited to say Doh, the website doesnt even allow links to it!
go to www.fisherfury.com, into the Fury R1 section, then January Part 2. About half way down is a pic of the routing for the clutch cable/ On an R1 this is much easier to do this as the lever slides onto splines held on with a circlip, so no re-welding required, but its a useful mod as it lets you have a much shorter clutch cable (only ~30-40cm) and keeps it virtually straight.

[Edited on 2/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]






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