dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 03:33 PM |
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Advice wanted
The car seems be running ok now, oil temp and water temp are too high, Ive thought about moving the intercooler under the bonnet with a scoop above,
Ive tried it for size and it fits with all pipe work, this will give me a much better flow of air through the nose cone, I can the fit a bigger rad
and relocate the oil cooler, if needed.
How does this sound??
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 03:45 PM |
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where does the air go after its been through your rads and inter cooler ? all over the engine ?
duct the air out the back of your rad intercooler out through the sides away from the engine ? Make sense ? This will drop under bonnet temps a huge
amount.
Take a look under the bonnet of a race 7, most do this.
Edit too add,
best material to do the job is "caravan ally" very thin, easy too cut and work, you want a snow plough shaped alloy shield behind your
rads ducting air out the sides, need a pic ?
[Edited on 29/8/06 by Jon Ison]
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:00 PM |
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I havent got room to do this, I noticed that on holeshots website some of the cars have got intercoolers under the bonnet, its not going to cost
anything to move it and its only an hours work, and even if i dont replace the rad i can relocate it along with the oil cooler, at the minute the oil
cooler is behind the rad,
A pic would be good though,
Also Jon I dont know if you remember me asking about the bird oil lines, In the end I just kept the oil line and cooler as standard, I think I need to
change this and return the oil scavenge pump outlet through the cooler and then into the tank?? for better cooling??
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:14 PM |
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can you not duct from the bottom of the rad up through the top of the nose cone or bonnet ? your flooding the engine bay with hot air ?
The return from the cooler can go straight too the tank rather than back too the sump, otherwise its just going round in circles, if its the same as
mine anyway.
Ive got.......
two scavenge points from sump->pump-> tank.
oil cooler line from engine->oil cooler rad->tank.
One inlet from tank->too engine original oil pressure pump.
My system retains the original oil pump which oils the engine and feeds the cooler.
clear as mud?
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:16 PM |
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Im running the same except I don return the oil cooler to the tank but to the engine.
my biggest problem is oil temp it hit 105, by changing oil cooler return into tank will it help cooling??
[Edited on 29/8/06 by dilley]
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:21 PM |
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In which case the oil is going round in circles a bit ?
you need too duct that air out the sides or top though if you can, put the intercooler under the bonnet with a duct in ? It will meet hot air trying
too get out ? I know its work but its the way too go, just don't duct it out onto the floor, you want vacuum under there not pressure.
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:23 PM |
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105 not great but some RGB boys see much higher.
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 04:38 PM |
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If you have any pics it would be great.
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:05 PM |
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not a pic but may help........
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DIY Si
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:09 PM |
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Would having a water-oil coller work/help? Might allow you to remove the oil cooler all together and put the intercoller in it's place. Or do
you have space to put the intercooler horizontal in the bottom of the engine bay/under the nose cone and put a fan above it?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:13 PM |
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Are you saying that if I vent the air out the side of the car It should be ok to have the intercooler under the bonnett?? It would be mounted on the
drivers side above the pedal box and tight to the underside of the bonnet with some type of bonnet scoop??
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:16 PM |
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Is a water oil cooler a split 1 piece rad?
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chrisj
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:20 PM |
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Your engine bay is tight.
I've put in vents on the top of the bonnet, a couple of vents above the oil rad to help aid under bonnet at rest (see A14 and M11), and exhaust
wrap on the headers to the side panels. I think the exhaust wrap has had the most dramatic effect, after that I'd start down the water wetter
route.
What oil are you using ? I changed effectively to a racing oil with 50w5 Millers fully synthetic to keep the oil pressure good.
Could you fit a slim line pacet pro sucker in ? or equivalent. Check the CFM for the most vs what amps it pulls out of the system.
Can you evacuate air out of the side pod apertures or are these closed ? Air coming from around and through the rad needs to go somewhere can it be
made to exit via these ?
Good luck !
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 05:25 PM |
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Im using castrol r3 superbike I think,
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DIY Si
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posted on 29/8/06 at 07:16 PM |
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A water oil cooler uses the coolant to cool the oil in a seperate thingy, rather than having an oil-air cooler/rad. I thikn having the intercooler
above the pedal box will loss a lot of its advantages. It really needs a flow of air through it. The pic shows what I mean as per positions. It would
also duct most/all of the hot air out and keep the engine bay much cooler.
I'm not sure that wrapping the headers will help in this case as it may give you troubles with the turbo being too hot, if your turbo shares an
oil feed with the engine. Not sure about that bit though.
This is the kind of thing I mean for the oil-water cooler.
[Edited on 29/8/06 by DIY Si]
Rescued attachment engine bay1.jpg
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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dilley
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posted on 29/8/06 at 07:55 PM |
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I was planning on giving the intercooler a flow of air by putting a big bonnet scoop on, air will then be forced through while driving, It would
really help if I could move it fro m the front of the car as it partiallt blocks the rad and most of the oil cooler, If I put a plate behind the rad
and cooler with a 4" pipe from the plate to the side panel this should keep the heat out of the engine bay????
the intercooler position I have in mind will leave an 8" gap from the underside to the pedal box cover and the intercooler would almost touch
the underside of the bonnet, I suppose another option would be a fan pulling on the underside of the intercooler??
Utter rubbish???
[Edited on 29/8/06 by dilley]
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DIY Si
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posted on 29/8/06 at 08:08 PM |
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As long as it has a good air flow through it it shouldn'tr matter too much where it is. If you can get a good cold air flow it shouldn't
matter. Having a fan would help, but could cause problems with the alternator, as it might not keep up, especially with lights etc on.
Also, just having a scoop doesn't guarentee air flow, as it has to have somewhere to flow too. And the only place it has is down the tunnel and
out the back, which may be insufficient.
[Edited on 29/8/06 by DIY Si]
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 09:03 PM |
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Ive never tried it, but thought about it, what if you put rad in the back ? In the back panel ? you could get airflow through it, extra cooling from
the longer pipes (weight penalty) down tunnel ? perfect for oil cooler and intercooler up front ?
The bike pump is up too job lots of middy becs have up front rads, mine included.
TV areal (ally) poles are great for the long runs, just a thought.
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Jon Ison
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posted on 29/8/06 at 09:06 PM |
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Ive never tried it, but thought about it, what if you put rad in the back ? In the back panel ? you could get airflow through it, extra cooling from
the longer pipes (weight penalty) down tunnel ? perfect for oil cooler and intercooler up front ?
The bike pump is up too job lots of middy becs have up front rads, mine included.
TV areal (ally) poles are great for the long runs, just a thought.
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