MOz
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 08:28 AM |
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Clutch Slip
First couple of outings out in the Indybird have thrown up clutch slipping problems. It only seems to happen hard on the gas in 3rd and 4th and not
all the time. Seems to be when you're already travelling mid rev range and you floor it to accelerate to the redline. Slip lasts about 2 secs
and then settles down again.....
Hard clutchless accel from standing through the gears doesn't do it??????
Obviously at some point I need to uprate or replace the clutch. I'm thinking a new OEM clutch with uprated springs. Where would I get the
springs from or can anyone recommend an uprated clutch setup.
Also the Bird has a hydraulic clutch. I only have experience with cable ones.
Any major gotchas I need to know about as I seem to make a hard job about anything mechanical and have never "done" a clutch
before.....
Help??
MOz
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MOz
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 08:54 AM |
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Done a search on clutch slip and I see that its not an uncommon problem (I knew this).
Seems to me OEM clutch plates and uprated springs is a good combo...
How easy is it to change clutch springs only or a full clutch assembly???
Would I need to rebleed the hydraulic clutch no matter what I check over or change???
Fretting now!!
MOz
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Headrush
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 posted on 25/3/07 at 09:39 AM |
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BEC clutch
True - the best combo is OEM clutch steel and friction plates with an uprated set of springs (try barnett). (remember you must soak the frictions in
engine oil for at least 24 hours before use!). I tried Barnett kevlar frictions and they lasted a total of about 200 miles before vapourising into my
engine - they have no wear ability - its either working or fooked. The OEM clutches permit wear and are made from an absorbant cork material (absorbs
engine oil for lube when slowly releasing the clutch). Easy to change & shouldnt affect your slave release cylinder IIRC. I had my R1 clutch setup
wth no unintensional slip at all using a barnett basket conversion and OEM clutch/steels.
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 10:17 AM |
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MOz Ive never changed a bird clutch but the r1 was done in about 10 minutes dont forget a new gasket
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BenB
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 11:27 AM |
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Yup- haven't needed to change the ST1100 clutch yet but it looks a PoP compared to trying to do the same on a CEC...
In fact, the ease of clutch changing was one of the reasons I gave in to the lure of BECs- even if the clutch did get knackered quite quickly because
of the extra loads impossed by a car over the original bike it's hardly an overwhelming job to put a new one in....
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DIY Si
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 12:39 PM |
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I has a similar problem with mine. The ctluch itself was ok, but the push rod was sticking slightly, just enough to hold the clutch in for a few secs.
Was quite scary when it happened on a slightly iffy overtake! Might be worth a quick check before spending any money.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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MOz
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 02:37 PM |
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Cheers guys...
For the sake of £20 is it worth uprating the springs anyway and sticking with the OEM plates???
MOz
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MOz
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 03:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
I has a similar problem with mine. The ctluch itself was ok, but the push rod was sticking slightly, just enough to hold the clutch in for a few secs.
Was quite scary when it happened on a slightly iffy overtake! Might be worth a quick check before spending any money.
Wouldn't this cause the problem in every gear???? It only happens in 3rd and 4th with mine???
MOz
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 04:35 PM |
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in my opinion the mistakesome people make with a BEC is that the clutch is now on a pedal and is as bomb proof as a car clutch, believe me you
don't have the same feel when it's on a pedal as when it's on the bike clutch lever (watch the bike racers the only reason they hook
two fingers over the lever is in case it seizes) just resting your foot on the pedal will fry the plates. Think about it you don't burn out the
clutch on the bike,so what are we doing different now it's on a pedal.
Well that's my opinion anyway
Tony
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DIY Si
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 06:40 PM |
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Mine would do it all the time if you made it, but it only tended to happen in 3rd/4th because this is when I was pushing on most and going for quicker
gear changes. Only really happened when I forgot about it and bottomed the pedal out hard when grabbing another gear. When changing gear at a more
sedate pace I never noticed it.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 09:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
so what are we doing different now it's on a pedal.
..apart from making it lug around twice its intended weight of course 
As others have mentioned, OEM plates and good quality uprated springs are a good starting point. As yours has been slipping though, you'll need
to check the existing plates are in decent condition before simply swapping out springs because the slipping may have caused the steel plates to
overheat and so they might be blued / warped, and/or the friction plates may have cooked and gone hard, in which case the slipping will soon
return.
Chris
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hobbsy
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| posted on 25/3/07 at 09:30 PM |
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My Blackbird clutch was standard and never slipped. I didn't think people bothered uprating these ones. When you look at the size of the
clutch basket compared to a Fireblade its quite a lot bigger. Bigger than the proportionate increase in power if you know what I mean.
If you do find any broken clutch bits I am breaking a Blackbird engine at the moment (boned big end no 3).
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