The Great Fandango
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 08:53 PM |
|
|
Mounting The Radiator EVEN FURTHER FORWARD...
More questions I'm afraid...
- Has anyone had any experience of mounting their radiator REALLY far forward. I'm talking literally as far as the nose cone will allow.
- I have even considered fitting it into the nose cone itself rather than attaching to chassis. Anyone done this?
- What is the best material to use to create a single large duct from the nose grill to the rad?
Many thanks in advance (again)
Hope everyone's had a good weekend's building/blatting?
Kyle
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
|
|
|
|
|
robinj66
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 08:56 PM |
|
|
Some of the Robin Hood guys do this without any problems.
Ally seems to be the favourite for ducting within the nose cone (probably because its lighter and easier to bend)
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 09:24 PM |
|
|
I cant really see a significant benefit of mounting it right up at the front of the nosecone, if you duct the nose so all the air that goes in ends up
going through the rad, that gives you as much air as you can get, so not sure what benefit putting it right at the front will give.
[Edited on 29/4/07 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
I know someone with a westfield that has the rad mounted to the nose cone. It is such a PITA that he is moving it onto the chassis.
He had to drain the coolant to remove the nose cone. Also the weight of the rad and water caused to nose cone to sag and so he had to adjust it
periodically.
You could mount it on the chassis on spacers to move it forwards. What would you hope to achieve?
|
|
|
zxrlocost
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 09:53 PM |
|
|
hi kyle you are trying to fix the problem with the wrong fix
your car shouldnt be running as hot as it is with that rad up front you have a problem elsewhere
its process of elimination
flush the rad out
is the system flowing water ok
etc
etc
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
OX
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 10:22 PM |
|
|
it looks like you have the same mesh on your nose cone as i have ,i saw a post on here the other day that said its surprising how much the small holed
mesh stops the air going through it,im going to change mine this week so will let you know if it helps
|
|
|
zxrlocost
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 10:45 PM |
|
|
Well spotted
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
The Great Fandango
|
| posted on 29/4/07 at 11:30 PM |
|
|
Hello and thank you to all for the advice.
Hello to you Chris in particular...
Indeed I did flush the system yesterday. Nothing nasty fell out so refilled properly and the tempurature stabilised at 106 degrees celsius sat outside
the garage with the fan on (a much better improvement on the usual 112-115).
The big deal will be when she's blasting along the road at nearly 11,500rpm... Apparently even after we've sorted the hosing out you the
system can be made MUCH more efficient by improving the airflow so...
I'm just getting all the prep work done ready for a big 'cooling improvement' session...
- I have bought new grill mesh with much bigger gaps
- I have all the silicone hose required
- I am just about to order an ali expansion tank made to measure (still trying to get the best price)
- I am looking into ways of mounting the rad further forward (most likely on ali brackets)
- Bought some cool aid additive
- I will be ducting the radiator
- I will be making two bonnet louvres and possibly a side louvre.
I also reckon my 3.62 ratio diff sat in the garage will play a big part as I won't have to rev so high (presently fitted with a 3.92 ratio).
It's all shop shop shop at present and indeed I do appreciate that the pipe re-routing will play the biggest part.
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 30/4/07 at 08:07 AM |
|
|
What rad are you using, and how is it all plumbed in (can you draw a diagram?)?
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 30/4/07 at 11:56 AM |
|
|
To aid cooling, you can make a former to fit between the rad and the nosecone and then fill the void around it in the nosecone, with expanding foam.
This will duct all the air entering your nosecone through your rad and help with cooling.
Phil
|
|
|
The Great Fandango
|
| posted on 2/5/07 at 11:46 PM |
|
|
As discussed here's my (rather simple) diagram...
 
My Basic Yamaha Fazer 1000 Cooling Drawing
The radiator is a bog standard polo rad
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 3/5/07 at 12:22 PM |
|
|
I think your problem may be that you're T is going into the bottom hose, not the top. Assuming its similar (if not identical) to the R1, water
comes OUT of the oil cooler pipe (the one next to the oil filter) so is hot and therefore it should be going into the top hose then through the rad,
not into the bottom hose which is feeding cool water back to the pump.
The way you have it you have a semi-closed loop where hot water comes out of the block (via the oil cooler) and goes straight back into the bottom
hose / water pump without going through the rad.
Here's my R1 cooling setup with a Polo / Golf rad
 
R1 Plumbing
If the Fazar is significantly different though, then apologies but Ive not seen one close up 
[Edited on 3/5/07 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
rjbrookes
|
| posted on 3/5/07 at 01:01 PM |
|
|
is your water pump good enough?!?!?!
mine wasnt, so changed it to a varible speed flowing one and now its fine....might be worth thinking about once you have tried cost free methods
russ
|
|
|
