vinnievector
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 03:58 PM |
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Hi to all
HI all at the stage to do something with paint work , hear goes i have alu sides which i will etch prime then use twin pack paint the main body
panels bits nose wings ext will also be primed and finished with twin pack .
However there is minor scratches to some of the body panels and some crazing on the glass coating
are these repairable or will this come through at a later date or should i just replace with new body panels .
A rough estimate as to how much i should be paying to do this little lot . paint labour ext .and an estimate on paint twin pack black and primer.
big list sorry
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westcost1
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 04:02 PM |
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i was reading this on the westy forum today copy past 
hrer is the link the post has pics
http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=12;t=49872
Group: WSCC Member
Posts: 6646
Joined: Feb. 2005
Posted on: Mar. 02 2007,08:08
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There has been a couple of threads on recently about repairing damage etc to gel coats and fibreglass etc.. so Ive done a step by step how to paint a
westy
One of the local members bought this westy and doesnt like the bell-end colour (purple not my thing either )
He looked into retubbing it but not wanting the spend or the money either he legged me into a colour change..
first job is to strip off as much as possible, scuttle , nose , lights etc. would be a better job to remove the rear arches but this car they have
been bonded on so have been left on..
this tub had a few holes that have been drilled for spare wheel carrier etc.. these need to be filled in..
if there is any cracks drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading , grind the crack to a V and rough the surrounding area and
also rough up the rear of the area to be repaired with an 80 grit sand paper.. , mix up some fibre glass and spread through the hole and into the
recess you have ground. spread the glass around the rear to give extra strength
next block sand off with 80 grit sandpaper till it is slightly lower than the surrounding bodywork .. mix up some standard bodyfiller and spread over
the sanded area..
when dry block sand with a 180 disc untill it is level with the surrounding bodywork, when it is da sand the surrounding area to allow the primer to
key , I used a 320 da disc..
now give a couple of coats of primer, allow to dry then the repair work is complete..
to allow the paint to key to the gelcoat it needs to be sanded , use either a 400 grit on a da sander or 1,000 wet and dry. everything that is to be
painted needs to be sanded in this way take care making sure the edges are well keyed.
I hired a booth for the topcoat to be applied, you could paint it in a well ventilated garage as long as its warm.
mask up anything that you dont want painting.
the panels now need to be degreased to remove any wax or silicones..
New to me the next bit , go over the full car with an antistatic spraygun that blasts a jet of air and stops any dust particles been attracted. thats
me watching the experts and proving you are never too old to learn new tricks
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J.C.
click for videos & full spec
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Post Number: 2
JeffC
North east AO.
Group: WSCC Member
Posts: 6646
Joined: Feb. 2005
Posted on: Mar. 02 2007,08:08
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the colour Im painting this one is a 4 stage pearl and first the car needs to be painted white, I used a non sand wet on wet primer but a normal white
basecoat would have done job equally as well. If I had been painting this a normal colour there is no need to prime the gelcoat simply go straight
over the top with your colour, I would recomend to use an adhesion promoter to help but prob more of a belt and braces job..
10 minutes flash off and a groundcoat orange can be applied, this is a very transparent colour and takes 3 full coats, quite important to make sure
this colour is solid or the pearlcoat wont get the correct effect.
once solid the pearl coat is laid over the top, It is very transparent and quite difficult to see it going on
3 coats later and 10 minute flash off and its time to apply the laquer, I use sikkens 2k with an elastic additive to help with stonechips and
flexing
Edited by JeffC on Mar. 02 2007,08:09
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J.C.
click for videos & full spec
[Edited on 21/2/08 by westcost1]
[Edited on 21/2/08 by westcost1]
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 04:07 PM |
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there is any hairline cracks in the gelcoat they WILL forever appear though paint even if it was a inch thick. You need to sand back through the gel
coat and replace it with bodyfiller. Sounds a lot of work but isn't. I use an angle grinder to do it quickly.
Simple scratches can be sanded down this 400 - 600 grade wet and dry. Then etch prime. Personally I'd go over the whole cars bodywork and give
it a light sand with 600 grade to provide a proper key for the paint plus to get rid of any release wax before any paint is used.
why did I bother.......
[Edited on 21/2/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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vinnievector
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 07:10 PM |
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Thanks
Thanks for the advise so far ,think judging on the condition of the body panels i have that i will have to spend some time rubbing down the gelcoat i
can get tack rags from work . do you guys recommend any good filler primer ,wot s the coverage i need for a locost and cost ext hardeners thinners ,Do
you guys have any ideas how to prevent moisture contamination from the compressor . Wot temp you recomend for the garage .
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