matt_baxter
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 01:17 PM |
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Rover and Ford bits
I am thinking (cant make it past that stage at the moment) of building a K series engined car however my question is that what else would I need that
is from a Rover, I.E would I need to use a Rover wireing loom to go with the engine and then a rover dash to go with that and then a rover ignition
and stearing colum to match with the rest of it.
Well can you see where I am going with this?
Any help would be apretiated
Thanks
Matt
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 01:27 PM |
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If you do a search on here, you will find detailed info on whats involved with fitting a K-series. I am fitting one, but if the engine wasn't
brand new and given to me FOC I would have definately used something else.
Considered bike engines?
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Humbug
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 02:10 PM |
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I've got a K-series with the original engine loom, ECU and immobiliser, but Sierra column and ETB instruments. I ended up biting the bullet and
getting an auto sparky to do the wiring. Unless you are using an aftermarket ECU etc. make sure you keep the engine loom, ECU, immobiliser & key
fob. If I was doing it all myself and using a K-series again, I think I would be tempted to start with the whole original loom and see how the
instruments looked. Keepign the Rover top column and switchgear would also make it easier
[Edited on 28.02.2008 by Humbug]
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 02:54 PM |
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you could look at getting a Lotus Elise loom. It's simpler as there are no leccy windows etc.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 03:52 PM |
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Best simplest source is a Metro GTi 1.4 --- the 16 valve one alternatively early 214Sei can be pickup as runners for pennies.
Avon diagnostics do the required stuff to neuter the anti-theft system.
The later your donor the complex the wiring and anti-theft system --- Rover 75 / MG ZT donors have a very tough BMW anti-theft system that
can't be by-passed without using an aftermarket ECU
Another reason to go for a Metro/214/414 1.4 litre K16 at least initially --- in any case you need some bits from the 1.4 to fit a 1.8.
The normal spec 1.4 turns out 104bhp and is well suited to a light sports car --- it is much more free revving than the 118bhp 1.8. The 1.6 puts
out 112bhp.
*** Rover ECUs can't easily be swapped between engines --- flywheel reluctor ring patterns and security ecus are watermarked into the engine
ecu and swapping parts demands the ecu is setup with a dealer level software tool.
If you really want a 1.8 cheapest option is to megasquirt it.
[Edited on 28/2/08 by britishtrident]
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stevec
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| posted on 28/2/08 at 07:24 PM |
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I have done a 1.8 turbo installation, I would be happy to answer questions as far as possible.
Steve.
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matt_baxter
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| posted on 29/2/08 at 09:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevec
I have done a 1.8 turbo installation, I would be happy to answer questions as far as possible.
Steve.
top tip
you dont want to be saying things like that I can get very irritating,
but good to know and thanks for the offer and I may take you up on that with things like............ where did you get your adaptor plates for the
engine to gearbox or did you make them if so where did you get the specs
Thanks
matt
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 29/2/08 at 11:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt_baxterwhere did you get your adaptor plates for the engine to gearbox or did you make them if so where did you
get the specs
Caterham have used K series engines with type 9 boxes (or their own type 9 compatible box) for ages.
Also Frontline Spridget sell the same (or at least very similar) bellhousings to enable the K series to be fitted to Midgets and Sprites along with a
Ford box.
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