Shadowcaster
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posted on 2/8/08 at 06:51 PM |
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Aluminum or Stainless Steel
Hi
What are the pros and cons of using either of the above, reason I ask is that I was going to do the sides and rear with Aluminum (the rest in
Fibreglass) but after looking at some pictures of a RH 2B Stainless looks realy smart.
Cheers Rich
The Roadster Blog http://richshaynesroadster.blogspot.com/
It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop.
Confucius Chinese philosopher & reformer (551 BC - 479 BC)
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Davey D
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posted on 2/8/08 at 07:15 PM |
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Stainless
Easier to keep looking nice
Harder to work the material
heavier that alu
Stronger than alu
Aluminium
Can go milky if not looked after
Can oxidise
Easy to work the material
Weaker that stainless
Lighter than stainless
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 2/8/08 at 07:17 PM |
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S J Andrews quoted my £96 for 8x4 sheet of 0.9mm mirror stainless, and £24 for 1.2mm ally (in 2004) so cost is one consideration. Stainless will also
be harder to work, have sharper edges will save HOURS of bloody polishing!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Shadowcaster
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posted on 2/8/08 at 08:29 PM |
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Thanks chaps will do some more thinking.
Cheers Rich
The Roadster Blog http://richshaynesroadster.blogspot.com/
It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop.
Confucius Chinese philosopher & reformer (551 BC - 479 BC)
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austin man
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posted on 2/8/08 at 11:15 PM |
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also think about the weight
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BenB
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posted on 3/8/08 at 09:31 AM |
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On a lightweight car I'd use ali whenever possible....
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mr henderson
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posted on 3/8/08 at 12:52 PM |
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The question, surely, is not whether one is better than the other, but how much thinner could the stainless steel be than its equivalent (in strength)
aluminium.
When that information was available then a choice could be made. Without that info then to say aluminium was better is just guesswork
Funny, as soon as the question of aluminium chassis comes up then everybody agrees it's not strong enough. Don't body panels need a bit of
strength?
John
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Macbeast
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posted on 3/8/08 at 01:03 PM |
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The question, surely, was not about strength, but about which would look better
I don't like the look of the Robin Hood stainless, but it's a matter of personal taste.
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rebelrider
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posted on 3/8/08 at 09:49 PM |
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also be aware there are different grades of stainless and some rust and just another spanner in the works some ali doesnt like being formed at all
and cracks.
sorry i know your asking for help
personally i would go for 1mm 316 stainless
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David Jenkins
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posted on 4/8/08 at 07:59 AM |
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Jon Ison's Isonblade was sheeted in stainless - looks very bright and shiny!
One downside - and I think Jon would agree - is that it's VERY difficult to form the curves at the top of the boot area, where the sheet goes
over the top rail. It's hard enough in ali, damn near impossible in stainless.
If stainless is your choice, I'd think seriously about doing things differently in that location.
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Shadowcaster
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posted on 4/8/08 at 06:09 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by David Jenkins
One downside - and I think Jon would agree - is that it's VERY difficult to form the curves at the top of the boot area, where the sheet goes
over the top rail. It's hard enough in ali, damn near impossible in stainless.
That and the bonnet are the bits that were worring me, I presume heating the metal to form it is out of the question because it will discolout,
trouble is I just realy like the look of stainless. Ah well more thinking and more paracetomal
Cheers Rich
The Roadster Blog http://richshaynesroadster.blogspot.com/
It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop.
Confucius Chinese philosopher & reformer (551 BC - 479 BC)
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MakeEverything
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posted on 5/8/08 at 03:27 AM |
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Fibreglass or polycarbonate would be my choice, for weight and ease of maintenance. You can always get it covered with a mirror film, though it
doesnt look the same as polished metal. Go for saving weight, or youll sacrifice your enjoyment of driving it!!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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907
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posted on 5/8/08 at 07:23 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Shadowcaster
quote: Originally posted by David Jenkins
One downside - and I think Jon would agree - is that it's VERY difficult to form the curves at the top of the boot area, where the sheet goes
over the top rail. It's hard enough in ali, damn near impossible in stainless.
That and the bonnet are the bits that were worring me, I presume heating the metal to form it is out of the question because it will discolout,
trouble is I just realy like the look of stainless. Ah well more thinking and more paracetomal
Hi Rich
To help you decide it might be an idea to do a test piece in both materials.
Make or find a suitable radius'ed length of tube or box section and have a go at knocking an edge over.
The top and bottom rear rails on my chassis are 25mm box, as I thought that they would be more rigid
when forming the edge of the sheet.
I still had to wedge in bits of wood to hold the rails apart while I dressed the metal over.
I also have the extra weight of a spare wheel mounted on this panel.
Cutting the metal may also be a consideration.
I clamped my 1.5 ally sheet to the chassis and trimmed it to size and shape with a small air nibbler.
This tool would not have lasted long had I have used stainless.
Slitting discs tend to heat stainless and on cooling cause distortion ripples.
With ally any imperfections, hammer marks etc, can be sanded out with wet & dry. Not so easy with stainless.
Hope this is of some help.
Cheers
Paul G
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Shadowcaster
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posted on 6/8/08 at 08:31 AM |
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Thanks again for the sugestions I'm begining to think that although Stainless looks great it may have to be Ally for ease of construction.
Cheers Rich
The Roadster Blog http://richshaynesroadster.blogspot.com/
It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop.
Confucius Chinese philosopher & reformer (551 BC - 479 BC)
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