Anyone got a photo of where you have mounted yours?
I am a bit bored as my chassis is waiting for the fuel tank so I can finish the welding. In the mean time I am "playing" with the engine, getting it ready for oil pressure and water temp etc.
I would like to get the downshifter fitted, but the instructions just say to remove the idle screw.
I thought that this was just the nut on the end of a tube, but there is another screw on the throttle bodies that acts as a stop. If this is the correct place then there is not enough room between the throttle bodies to mount the downshifter.

Cheers Martin

It definitely replaces the idle screw and yes it is VERY tight for space - certainly on the 5PW R1 throttle bodies.

Best results are had from keeping the vacuum hoses short - I think I need to shorten mine.

Blimey, that was a quick reply!
Any chance of a photo?
Does it replace the screw between the throttle bodies and fit between them?

I might have a photo at home.

But in the meantime check this (took me a while to find it again):

http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=3;t=32550;hl=proshift

Its not the same system completely but the blip components are the same.

"You can barrel into a corner, left foot brake, click-click-click-click-click on the paddle with a resulting bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack from the gearbox as it perfectly executes a clutchless downchange for you."

Excellently put

I think that I might have sussed it!
I removed the idle adjuster (long piece of tube with knurled nut?).
This terminates in the wax fast idle housing. There is a cam that the idle adjuster rests against when the engine is hot (when hot allows the cam to rest on adjuster and drops revs).
I gather that this is where it goes.
It is difficult to wind even the idle adjuster back in let alone the downshifter!
Both appear to be fine threads, but the adjuster is 4.84mm dia and the downshifter is 4.91mm (according to micro).
I will have to have a go again tomorrow as I have to go to work now (nights)

Cheers Martin

quote:

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Originally posted by gingerprince
"You can barrel into a corner, left foot brake, click-click-click-click-click on the paddle with a resulting bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack-bwap-clack from the gearbox as it perfectly executes a clutchless downchange for you."

Excellently put

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Update!
I have fitted the downshifter.
You can see from the photo that I need one M5 nut and bolt in the stainless bracket to finish.
The unit basically goes where the idle adjustment screw is located. The idle adjuster on the 05 injection is attached to a cable which makes ajusting tick over easier.
The idle screw is fitted below the fast idle cold start. The cold start is a plunger on a cam which holds the throttle open to give higher revs from cold.
Once the engine is warmed up the plunger retracts and allows the cam to rest on the idle screw.
The downshifter thread is the same as the idle screw except it has a pin running through the centre that will stick out and push the cam if a vacuum is applied to the actuator.
I had to fabricate the stainless band (supplied) to go up and over the cold start and fix to the mounting screw, but the worst job is getting the downshifter in such a small space.
My advice is to remove the cold start and undo the vaccum hoses to make the job easier.
The thread in the cold start idle screw is a very fine pitch and goes in at an alkward angle so it is best to remove the cold start to prevent cross threading.
The second photo shows the side view and you can also see my threaded boss for my capilary water temp take off in the background.
I am summizing that the vacuum for the actuator switch box will come off the vacuum pipe that goes to the fuel rail regulator? (any advice?)
Hopefully I will have helped someone else with this!



Description

Description

[Edited on 29/4/2008 by nitram38]

Yep its tight isn't it!

I can't remember what I tee-d off for the vac.

Only reservation about doing it off the fuel pressure reg is that if it develops and air leak it could result in your engine running very lean (fuel pressure increases with the vacuum supplied to the fuel pressure reg IIRC).

The other problem that I had was were to mount the vacuum control box as its not exactly small and its best to keep the vac hose as short as possible.

[Edited on 29/4/08 by hobbsy]

My reasoning for using the fuel regulator vaccuum is that the other pipes are used to "balance" the throttle bodies and form part of the tuning.
If I use one of those, then it is likely to interfere with the balance.
Where did you take your vacuum from as I can't see any other take-offs?
Mounting the controls on the engine sounds like a bad idea to keep the hose short, but I have the engine mount nearby. I may fabricate a bracket close to that on the chassis rail.
Wonderful things, rivnuts!

[Edited on 30/4/2008 by nitram38]

HI
TAKE THE VACUUM FROM THE THROTTLE BODIES NOT THE FUEL RAIL AND BLANK OFF THE INTERCONNECTING PIPE IT WONT AFFECT THE BALANCE ALSO MAKE SURE THE VACUUM FEED HOLE IS ABOUT 2.5 MM ALL THE WAY THROUGH GIVE GRAHAM A CALL AT FLATSHIFTER HE IS VERY HELPFULL ON 01206 322557

FLATSHIFTER ON YOUTUBE
I found this link to some footage of graham miller in a global lights car using his flatshifter around silverstone running an R1 engine

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=2740771063408382978&q=graham+miller&total=114&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&pl index=0

Cheers for that.
My only concern is keeping the vacuum hoses short enough.
Will mounting the vacuum control box on the engine damage it (vibration)?
All the installs I have seen are on the chassis, but this increases the pipe runs.

That Global of Graham Miller is my team mate, I also have one on my car.

I can see no problem mounting the control box on the engine, if you look what's in there, i cant really see anything to be damaged. I'd still mount it with some rubber or foam.

quote:

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Originally posted by ko_racer
That Global of Graham Miller is my team mate, I also have one on my car.

I can see no problem mounting the control box on the engine, if you look what's in there, i cant really see anything to be damaged. I'd still mount it with some rubber or foam.

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Nitram, I've just u2u'd you

Ignition cut off or fuel cut off?

Beeing an injected engine, which would be the best?

Also - in my case - having a cat in the exhaust, I think that cutting the ignition will send unburnt fuel to the exhaust, which will explode in the (very hot) cat, right?
But with a 90 ms cut, will this be a problem?

ALSO:
Can you please send me photos of your instllations?

Cheers,
Joao

IIRC with the Trickshifter its ignition cut so you will get unburnt fuel and over time it will kill your cat.

It could be worth contacting them to see its possible to re-configure it to do injection cut.

Thats how my Racelogic Traction Control system worked on my ~370bhp 200SX.

Pingel claims that they ran a couple bikes with cat for 4 years without a problem... but they also say that it could be interesting to cut injection...

As I said the racelogic cuts injection but to get a variation in the amount of cut (and its intensity) they cut a varying number of cylinders etc.

You've definitely got to make sure you cut enough so that it doesn't fire at all (i.e. misfire) else you could lean it out, but I guess on a gearchange the duration is a lot shorter than the amount of time you could spend with the traction control kicked in.