Board logo

Where to start? New BMW garage heater!!
franky - 29/1/10 at 05:26 PM

I've now got the e36 m3 sat in my garage...

Now where the hell do I start on taking it to bits!?

I was thinking...

1 engine and box out
2 sell all the rest of the trim/bits that I can
3 out the garage, on bricks, remove suspension legs/brakes etc
4 Give the scrap man a call.

Does that sound about right?


tegwin - 29/1/10 at 05:29 PM

quote:
Originally posted by franky
I've now got the e36 m3 sat in my garage...

Now where the hell do I start on taking it to bits!?

I was thinking...

1 engine and box out
2 Give Tegwin a ring so he can pick the engine up
3 sell all the rest of the trim/bits that I can
4 out the garage, on bricks, remove suspension legs/brakes etc
5 Give the scrap man a call.

Does that sound about right?



EFA

[Edited on 29/1/10 by tegwin]


twybrow - 29/1/10 at 05:29 PM

Sounds about right. I would also take all of the loom (it could be chopped down to fit your car), the steering column/switch gear/wheel and as many bulbs as you can be arsed to scavenge!


NigeEss - 29/1/10 at 05:31 PM

Depends on your time scale. If you can sell first taking bits off as you do it'll take up
a lot less space. Amazing how much room a car fills when in bits !


franky - 29/1/10 at 05:32 PM

cool. Parts I need are...

Engine
Diff
Engine loom
Clocks
Gearbox
Steering parts
wheels

I'm not allowed to strip it on the drive as my long haired boss thinks we'll look like 'travelers'


omega0684 - 29/1/10 at 05:32 PM

what the feck car is that going into?


franky - 29/1/10 at 05:35 PM

In a very distant future a GKD Legend six.

Its so much more cost effective. ITB's as standard, its ECU has been mapped to perfection and it already makes just over 300bhp so more than enough poke.

coupled with the LSD etc its cheaper than building a duratec on TB's.

[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]


dlatch - 29/1/10 at 05:40 PM

great choice of engine they really are a cracker and when 300bhp is not enough always SC options


Miks15 - 29/1/10 at 05:47 PM

just a little help,the front slam panel can be removed so the engine can come out forwards.

If you disconnect the gear lever, you wont need to worry about tipping the engine up, just on a crane and either wheel the crane one way, or the car the other.


If you have any queries on how to take the car apart just give me a shout, i did my E36 couple years ago now (ok it was only a 1.6 and not an M3) but alot of the fiddly bits could be the same

Also, someone payed me £150 for the shell of mine, so dont just go to the scrappy. Someone might be looking for a shell (jus remember to grind off all ID numbers)


big_wasa - 29/1/10 at 05:48 PM

oh I so like the look of that


franky - 29/1/10 at 05:53 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
just a little help,the front slam panel can be removed so the engine can come out forwards.

If you disconnect the gear lever, you wont need to worry about tipping the engine up, just on a crane and either wheel the crane one way, or the car the other.




If you have any queries on how to take the car apart just give me a shout, i did my E36 couple years ago now (ok it was only a 1.6 and not an M3) but alot of the fiddly bits could be the same

Also, someone payed me £150 for the shell of mine, so dont just go to the scrappy. Someone might be looking for a shell (jus remember to grind off all ID numbers)


Thats exactly what i'm hoping, i've taken the front slam panel off.... just got to get everything else connected off.

The more tips to getting it out the better. what else apart from all the engine mounts etc need to come off to do it? I was thinking of resting it on wood and pushing the car off it but the crane is a good idea too. Just tight on space though as they're bloody big motors!

this pic is where i'm at now...



[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]

[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]

[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]


Miks15 - 29/1/10 at 06:00 PM

eerrrmmm...

prop, exhaust loom, TB's coolant lines, obvs engine mounts, gearbox mounts, PAS lines, AC lines, Heater lines.
if you get the main things off, slowly move it, if you feel a snag then you can inspect to see whats stopping it.

Under the engine (if its anything like mine was, theyll be a cross member that bolts to the chassis. The engine then bolts to this cross member. if i remeber correctly, the steering rack also connects to this. I think this cross member might be in the way of the sump coming directly past it, so it might be wise to drop the cross member and steering rack as opposed to just undoing the engine mounts


MikeR - 29/1/10 at 06:09 PM

keep all the nuts and bolts as you strip it - if you don't use them on the rebuild / new build you'll find a use for them at some point.


franky - 29/1/10 at 06:24 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
eerrrmmm...

prop, exhaust loom, TB's coolant lines, obvs engine mounts, gearbox mounts, PAS lines, AC lines, Heater lines.
if you get the main things off, slowly move it, if you feel a snag then you can inspect to see whats stopping it.

Under the engine (if its anything like mine was, theyll be a cross member that bolts to the chassis. The engine then bolts to this cross member. if i remeber correctly, the steering rack also connects to this. I think this cross member might be in the way of the sump coming directly past it, so it might be wise to drop the cross member and steering rack as opposed to just undoing the engine mounts


Sounds like a plan. Should be able to do it in half a day all going well.

Been looking at ebay too and all the parts I don't need seem to go for decent money so fingers crossed i'll get most of the cost back.


jollygreengiant - 29/1/10 at 06:31 PM

I know it might be a pain in the ar$e doing it but DON'T cut any wiring, just take out the ENTIRE loom and all fuse boxes, relays and ECU's. then you won't want any electrical cables and you can always re-use the switches as necessary.


James - 29/1/10 at 06:35 PM

Once it's out, could you do some quick measurements of engine/gearbox please?

My car is approaching Viento size... reckon one of these babies would fit quite nicely.

Are they auto gearbox? Pretty sure my mate's was.

How much of a challenge is it to use the stock ECU (and therefore Loom presumably) without needing locks, ignition key, immobiliser etc. etc.?

How come you went for this one, not the EVO at 320bhp?



Looks great!

Cheers,
James

[Edited on 29/1/10 by James]


James - 29/1/10 at 06:41 PM

quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
I know it might be a pain in the ar$e doing it but DON'T cut any wiring, just take out the ENTIRE loom and all fuse boxes, relays and ECU's.


I think I attempted that with my Sierra donor.

I don't think it was possible!!! I'd have had to cut the car apart around the loom! Too many connectors put on after the loom has been fed through bulkheads etc.


Cheers,
James


Simon - 29/1/10 at 06:47 PM

quote:
Originally posted by franky
I'm not allowed to strip it on the drive as my long haired boss thinks we'll look like 'travelers'


Shouldn't worry about that, if the council thinks they've got pikies, they'll probably give you a grant

ATB

Simon


franky - 29/1/10 at 06:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by James
Once it's out, could you do some quick measurements of engine/gearbox please?

My car is approaching Viento size... reckon one of these babies would fit quite nicely.

Are they auto gearbox? Pretty sure my mate's was.

How much of a challenge is it to use the stock ECU (and therefore Loom presumably) without needing locks, ignition key, immobiliser etc. etc.?

How come you went for this one, not the EVO at 320bhp?



Looks great!

Cheers,
James

[Edited on 29/1/10 by James]


No worries will do, just let me know what you need. If you get a 3.0 they're very easy to get running.

5 sp ZF bomb proof manual.

I went for this over the 3.2 as....

1) Single vanos unit that do not have the issues the 3.2 have.

2) Gearbox's are stronger, the race cars fit this box to a 3.2 unit.

3) the EVO hardly ever makes its claimed 321bhp... when this was on a dyno at a dyno day it make more poke than 7 evo's, only one evo made more at 315bhp with a 8.2k rev limit.

4) Price

5) Price again!



[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]


gottabedone - 29/1/10 at 07:07 PM

when you take all of your loom out, if you also take the all of the lights and other electrickery bits then you can reconnect when off the car. It makes chasing wires and finding faults a lot easier. You can later remove all of the bits that you don't need and sell on any that you can.

I would also remove anything that connects to anything with the steering, suspension, fuel, exhaust etc. as it will make life easier if you have to set up the mounting points on your new chassis and answering the @which way round does this go" questions

This will be a serious toy when finished

Steve


maartenromijn - 29/1/10 at 07:13 PM

quote:
Originally posted by James
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
I know it might be a pain in the ar$e doing it but DON'T cut any wiring, just take out the ENTIRE loom and all fuse boxes, relays and ECU's.


I think I attempted that with my Sierra donor.

I don't think it was possible!!! I'd have had to cut the car apart around the loom! Too many connectors put on after the loom has been fed through bulkheads etc.


Cheers,
James



I did it with a 1993 Mondeo! The engine out costs 1 day, and the wiring loom 3 days! I have put a piece of tape at every connector and written what the connector is for.


franky - 29/1/10 at 07:16 PM

Thats what i've been doing with this, the good news is that the engine loom connects to the main loom with block connectors.


Richard Quinn - 29/1/10 at 07:49 PM

Don't know where the earth strap is on that motor but that's the one that normally catches me out! The number of cars I've ended up lifting in the air with the crane because the bloody earth strap is still attached!!


dave-69isit - 29/1/10 at 09:07 PM

on my last on earth straps on starter motor


pdm - 29/1/10 at 09:20 PM

Will you need any mods to the standard Legend 6 chassis to fit engine/gearbox ?

Are you using the M3 prop, diff and half shafts or are you mating to a standard diff/halftshafts ?

What are you doing about front hubs/calipers - going with the M3 ones or using standard ones ? Same for rear flanges - are you going for standard ones ?

It's going to be one awesome motor when it's done !!

thanks
Paul


franky - 29/1/10 at 09:30 PM

the chassis is designed to fit the m3 engine so it'll go straight in.

I'm going to use bmw 328 brakes as they're a little smaller so will heat up better. These are too big at 310mm

So front discs will be 286mm rear will be 280mm.

I'll need a new prop but they're not too expensive.

I'll be using the m3 LSD diff with bmw 328 drive shafts.

[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]

[Edited on 29/1/10 by franky]


col - 6/2/10 at 07:16 PM

As with some other cars dont you need to keep the ignition etc as these bmers have unusual imobilisers?.........its only what ive heard


Bluemoon - 6/2/10 at 09:10 PM

quote:
Originally posted by James
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
I know it might be a pain in the ar$e doing it but DON'T cut any wiring, just take out the ENTIRE loom and all fuse boxes, relays and ECU's.


I think I attempted that with my Sierra donor.

I don't think it was possible!!! I'd have had to cut the car apart around the loom! Too many connectors put on after the loom has been fed through bulkheads etc.


Cheers,
James


Got mine out complete from the sierra, all of it! I like a challenge (but this would have been simpler than the BMW)! It does help to have it as you know it all will work, and things like the haynes manual tell porky's about the wiring; some times it's simpler to trace if you have the whole loom (but label everything, be careful to keep the labels in good condition i.e. don't fall off in the X number of years before you need it!)..

I guess with GTD you will use a new loom anyhow?

Dan


franky - 8/2/10 at 08:42 AM

quote:
Originally posted by col
As with some other cars dont you need to keep the ignition etc as these bmers have unusual imobilisers?.........its only what ive heard


My car's a pre EWS which is the extra security part of it so its not such an issue and even for those with its a good way to meet IVA requirements.

I'll be making up a new loom for lights etc but using the engine loom as it has a nice big plug to the main loom and keeps everything looking tidy.