Hi i have recently bought a tiger cat e1 and havent made my mind up on what engine to put in her, at the mo its got a 2.0 pinto in her.
I am thinking of either putting a 2.0 zetec or 2.0 duratec in it whats the pros and cons each one and is there anyone on here selling a full set up?
if i go zetec i have the type 9 box.
Any help would be appreciated.
welcome,
this is by far the best place on the planet to ask that question,..
I will start the ball rolling with,...
PRO - the duratec install will have the exhaust on the same side as the pinto
CON - the duratec will cost more than a zetec, there is a 2.0 black top on here for £100,.. 
over to the next person
Wait till the pinto goes bang.
I have both a 2.0 zetec and 2.0 LET spare to go in mine, not sure if the let will fit.
Whats your budget and spanner skills like?
I've done two zetec installs, both cost just over 1k, not including the rolling road sessions. I think you'd do well to install a duratec
for the same price.
Obligatory build pics:
Do you find you pedal quicker on a high protein diet or a high carb diet.
Also do you duck when the driver wants to see the apex of the corner?
My spanner wangling skills are top notch, my engineering skills are also very good. what I lack in is the correct infomation on what works well in
these cars. so... what i was thinking is...
Duratec 2.0 from a st150 these are the same as a mondeo dura but with a solid flywheel yes??
type 9 gearbox (have 1) with bellhousing conversion....what make???
Not sure wether to run it on bike carbs or throttle bodys yet..
Has anyone got a shopping list of this install so can get an idea of what cost and whats involved..
I would like to gather up all the parts so i could get cracking and do it in one sitting.
Im sure this has been asked before so i do apologise.
Have A look at rwd motor sport bellhousing flywheel clutch etc i have put duratec in mine cost £2000 in parts to go from pinto to duratec but with out doubt best engine available at the mo
Hi
I've also gone from Pinto to Duratec and have to admit, even with the occasional second-hand bargain and also retaining the twin 45's over
the additional cost of TB's, the final bill was probably nearer the 3k mark when factoring in RR costs etc.
In terms of a shopping list:
Bellhousing - RWD, Burtons or Raceline (Raceline now do a slimmer version only suitable for hydraulic clutch, which may allow you to mount the engine
further back in a narrow tunnel). You can opt to use cable operated clutch using one of RWD's bellhousings, as I did, but I found that their
bearing and arm combination left things a little short in order to operated the clutch effectively. Some have modified the pivot pin, but I found that
using a thicker clutch arm gave better travel (though you may need to grind some of the housing aperture away to fit). I've also ended up with a
longer bespoke clutch cable from Speedy cables, to avoid it going through the manifold, with heat causing problems. In hindsight, would have gone
hydraulic, but need to factor in those additional costs.
Flywheel - Raceline, RWD (Make sure you get their clutch set-up too, as it is drilled for the Pinto-type pressure plate, unlike the Raceline one). You
can also use the ST150 solid one, as you mentioned above, but may be slightly heavier.
Oil Filter adapter (to avoid the filter fouling the chassis) - Raceline, Burtons, Caterham, Westfield etc.
Alternator kit - could retain your existing one if you can fabricate brackets to fit or opt for an off the shelf option from Raceline (exhaust or
inlet side options), Dunnell, Cosworth, Caterham, Westfield etc.
Lowline sump - Some value for money options available via this site, or the pricier option is the Raceline one
Manifold - I used a set of second-hand Caterham pipes, but you could resuse you existing one utilising a suitable flange
Induction - Various options, but Chester Sports cars do bike carb kits for both Zetec and Duratec if you didn't want to source your own bits.
Raceline or Omex also do TB kits.
Plus the usual plumbing bits, engine mounts and a suitable ECU. I used a second-hand Omex 200 to work with the Webers.
Hope that helps
quote:
Originally posted by emwmarine
Do you find you pedal quicker on a high protein diet or a high carb diet.
Also do you duck when the driver wants to see the apex of the corner?
thanks for the parts list mark, it has given me an idea of whats involved.
Im going to try and stick to a budget of 2k, using bike carbs, st150 flywheel and using a moded pinto exhaust.
the other stuff im just going to shop around.
quote:
Originally posted by navyseamonkey2011
thanks for the parts list mark, it has given me an idea of whats involved.
Im going to try and stick to a budget of 2k, using bike carbs, st150 flywheel and using a moded pinto exhaust.
the other stuff im just going to shop around.
Agree with the above, as on Webers there is a flat spot that no end of effort on the RR could iron out, mainly due to the fact that the Duratec is a
large valve 'heavey breather' that the carbs struggle to respond to low down. However, not noticeable above 3k and on track, but need to
avoid flooring from take-off.
Have heard that the bike carbs work better in this respect tho'