Fresh Meat here! Just wanted to establish contact and try to post a couple pics of my donor brakes for my soon to start to build 7!
...1st pic is the brakes/spindle/hubs freshly "unearthed" from a local junkyard...2nd pic is after a few days in my "AutoSpa"!
Details:
Spindles/Hubs: '94/'95 Mustang
Front Brakes: '00 Mustang GT, PBR 2 piston Aluminum caliper/10.84" dia x 1.0" vented rotors
Rear Brakes: '87-'87 Turbo Tbrd calipers/10.125" dia vented rotors
Rescued attachment Pseudo7_brk_before_x.jpg
...2nd pic...after a few days in my "Autospa"!
Rescued attachment Pseudo7_brks_after_x.jpg
Very Nice, I have some things which would benefit from a vacation at your 'autospa'
Like the parts, i need an auto spa too!
I am planning on using early fox body suspension pieces. How do you plan on assembling the front suspension?
drmike54:
I'm contracting CMC to design/fab the front control arms. They'll attach to the chassis in the usual Locost way (I'm using rod ends
here). The lower arm will attach to the upright using a ball joint (SN95 Mustang)...the upper arm will most likely attach to the upright using either
a ball joint or a rod end via a ball joint adapter bracket made from two angle brackets similar to the pic attached (Ref:
www.desicodesign.com/meerkat/).
Rescued attachment 7_strutspindleattach.jpg
Portions of my (on the road) car could do with a dip..please tell more...
...well, since you asked:
The parts were first disassembled as much as practical (i.e., the hubs were removed from the spindles, wheel studs removed, caliper brackets
seperated from calipers, caliper sliding pins removed, but the caliper pistons were NOT removed).
The parts were then treated to a vigorous scrubbing w/a variety of wire brushes: toothbrush sized, bench grinder sized, and pneumatic die grinder
mounted. I used acetone and alcohol w/the toothbrush sized wire brush to facilitate the cleaning process on the calipers (being careful around the
rubber piston dust boots).
After wire brushing, the steel parts (uprights, caliper brackets, hubs (their inner bearings sealed up w/duct tape)) were treated to a phosphoric acid
bath (PPG Metal Prep) followed by a phosphoric acid/zinc phosphate soaking (PPG Metal Conditioner) to increase paint adhesion and corrosion
resistance.
The uprights were wiped down w/acetone and shot w/VHT No-Rust epoxy satin black chassis paint. The hubs were shot w/VHT High Temp cast iron (colored)
lacquer paint.
The brake calipers and brackets were wiped down w/acetone and shot w/VHT Brake Caliper silver paint (900 deg F), followed by 3-4 coats of VHT
Flameproof clear (1200 deg F). After the paint was dry, it was heat cured by oven baking for 30 mins @ 250 deg F, followed by 30 mins cooling, then
30 mins @ 450 deg F. This improves the durability and chemical resistance of the finish tremendously (the same heat curing can occur in service, but
the finish is not that durable until heat cured, and I figured I'd be handling the parts quite a bit during the design/build).
...there, aren't you glad you asked!
Psuedo7, have you checked out the electrolytic rust removal process? Many members including myself
have used this technique successfully.
[Edited on 5/1/05 by MikeRJ]
MikeRJ:
Yes I've read the link and threads, but I'm not comfortable subjecting my house and family to potentially harmful hydrogen gas and toxic
waste! I already have the wire brush "equipment" and can deal w/the noise and dust (ear plugs and filter mask, sweep up after dust
settles...you know the drill)...plus I have access to a media blast cabinet if need be.
Cheers.
quote:
...there, aren't you glad you asked!
