Evening peeps

Had a very successful day in the garage (even if it was a bit hot!) but hit some snags. I took the driveshafts off the donor with the drum brakes still attached. Now, I have stripped off the brake shoes and cyclinders off, but there is not way the shaft will fit through the center of the back plate. Either the hole in the back pate is too small or the shaft OD is too big. Anyone else had a similar problem?

Second problem is that one of the exhast manifold bolts has sheared in the block. Its one of the bolts that the engine hanger is bolted to. Any suggestions how to get the remianing stud out??

Cheers
Beardo

well, the driveshaft must have got in there somewhere
isn't there a splined end that just passes through the back plate? i'm pretty sure its not the whole driveshaft that goes through

MIG weld a nut on to the end of the broken stud (from the inside of the nut) the heat frees up the stud and you can get a spanner on the nut.

This method has never failed me.

Forget easyouts - they aren't!

Cheers

Mark

should have mentioned its off a sierra, and in the haynes manual it says the whole driveshaft slides out from the rear diff and passes though the drum backplate.

My ar*e it does! no way its gonna fit though the backplate.

Another thought is, do I actually need to take it out? I could just keep it as it is and attach it all again later.

I take it that at this point you still have the swinging arm attached ?. depending on what your fitting it too depends whether you need to tak it out, have you undone all of the bolst which carry the hub if not you nee to do this . From memory the hub is removed from the shaft not the shaft from the hub. You may need to refit the driveshaft nut and give it a good blow with a hammer to free it off. They definitely do come out .

Our drive shafts did go thought the back plate as per haynes manual..

Photo might help?

Dan

Found my camera, here's the broken stud...



broken exhaust manifold stud i

Must have sheared while moving the engine around


broken stud

Driveshaft & drum backplate....



Description

The clean shiney area is where I have cleaned the rust off with wire brush and flap disk. Thats the part with the largest OD.

(If the pics dont come out, look in my archive under Pinto)

[Edited on 23/6/08 by Beardy_John]

I had a broken stud, oddly enough in the same place as yours. I drilled it out and re-tapped. Tedious, but it worked.

Macbeast, when you say drilled and re-tapped, did you literally hand drill it and then tap it M8 (or what ever size it is)?

Why do they use studs anyway, why not use regular bolts???

Well yes, with an electric drill

Don't know why but the stud has different thread at block end from the nut end - coarser I think, maybe makes it easier to remove (in theory).

I just tapped block standard M8 I think (will check today) and used a bit of studding. I was fairly careful with the depth of my drilling as I didn't want to break through into waterways etc.

Try drilling it out with a left handed drill, a good chance it will twist out intact

Have you tried passing the driveshaft through the backplate? It looks to me as though it will go through, it is a snug fit but will go through.

Found a guy at work who knows a thing or two about old Fords and apparently the previous owners have had the UJ behind the back plate changed. And its not got any ford markings so its probably the wrong size to fit through the backplate. Easiest solution.... take the hub nut off and separate the drive shaft into two bits. So now I need a massive socket and breaker bar

Took the exhaust manifold off yesterday and found another 2 broken studs !! Joy. Think I will be trying all of the above methods.!