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Author: Subject: Sierra v Mk2 Escort axle
Mark H

posted on 3/12/02 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
Sierra v Mk2 Escort axle

Hi guys,

I have picked up a rolling book chassis with a MK2 Escort axle in it.

Before i found this, I acquired a donor Sierra from which i was going to use the engine, gearbox, drive and everything from.

A few questions then:

1. To keep the registration ive read in other topics you need most main parts from one donor to not get a Q plate. This is the main reason i want to swap to the Sierra. Is it difficult to swap the Escort axle for a cut down Sierra unit?

2. My mate (a mechanic) says that driving the escort axle with a 1.8 Pinto would mean it'd scream. I thought it'd be fast away from the lights, but what kind of top speed could I expect before the noise drove me insane?

3. What would you do in my position?

Cheers everyone.





Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...

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Viper

posted on 3/12/02 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
you could allways change the diff to suit he tyre size etc so it won't scream, i would have thought your mechanic mate would tell you that!!






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Stu16v

posted on 3/12/02 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
Mark, it is not just a case of swapping the Escort axle with a 'cut down' Sierra one. The Sierra semi trailing arm rear suspension. This means that you will have to alter the chassis, suspension points etc etc to do the job. Not impossible but hassle all the same.
As for your engine 'screaming', it depends what ratio final drive the Escort axle actually is. It's quite possible that it has a 3.6 fitted, which is the same as a lot of Sierras anyway. To find out, push the car forward one revolution of the road wheel and count how many times the drive flange for the prop turns. To be more accurate, push the vehicle forward so wheels go round ten times. You do need a long driveway for this, but it is accurate. E.g. if the flange turns 3.6/36 times (according to how you do it) you have a 3.6 to 1 final drive.
P.s. whats the problem with a Q plate. You cant see them from the driving seat....





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James

posted on 4/12/02 at 03:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark H
Before i found this, I acquired a donor Sierra from which i was going to use the engine, gearbox, drive and everything from.

A few questions then:

1. To keep the registration ive read in other topics you need most main parts from one donor to not get a Q plate. This is the main reason i want to swap to the Sierra. Is it difficult to swap the Escort axle for a cut down Sierra unit?

2. My mate (a mechanic) says that driving the escort axle with a 1.8 Pinto would mean it'd scream. I thought it'd be fast away from the lights, but what kind of top speed could I expect before the noise drove me insane?



Hi Mark,

To change to a Sierra rear would be a lot of work at this point you'd need to:
1. Design a way of mounting the new diff- bear in mind it's 'fixed' as opposed to Live Axle.
2. Design/build wishbones and their mounting points.
3. Design/build uprights to hold the rear hubs.
4. Change a significant part of the rear end so that the drive shafts don't 'hit' the current RU1/2 rails that will be completely in the way.
5. Turn the rear suspension brackets round 90°.

Sorry if that's sounds too negative but I'm just warning you that that is some of the large amount of work you'd have to do!
You can do it if you want- but do you really want to?

When it comes to the diff question, well I've been in The IsonBlade (0-60 in about 3.4sec apparrently) and that has a MKII axle and screaming diff was certainly not something I noticed as a problem!

Anyway, hope that helps,

James

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interestedparty

posted on 4/12/02 at 03:42 PM Reply With Quote
As long as you are using a 5speed geabox you will be OK with the escort axle. The 5th gear is an overdrive, and will reduce the engine rpm to below the 'screaming point' after you have accelerated to your required speed.

John

[Edited on 4/12/02 by interestedparty]





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jollygreengiant

posted on 5/12/02 at 10:57 PM Reply With Quote
I think that the Live axle is probably more flexible.
Fit the engine as is. If you find that the engine is reving to easily ( or screaming) then it is a relatively easy process to upgrade the Diff with a choice of ratio's to suit what you want the car to do. Ratio change is easy, wheels & drums off, undo prop drive flange & push forward, undo 4 reaining bolts eachside of axle & pull drive shafts out (puller/slide hammer required). Undo bolts around diff remove diff (& gear oil). Fit new diff & reverse order of removal.

Diff's avialable in various ratios from 3.54:1 upto about 5.0:1 just depends whether you want top end or acceleration.

3.54:1 give slower accel but better econ.
4.77:1 gives lots revs but no top end.

If your lucky you might still have ratio tag (alley label under diff mounting lug) on the axle. if not then you need to remove diff to work out ratio.

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Mark H

posted on 6/12/02 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys

I really appreciate the answers I've received. From what i've read on this forum over the last few months the more changes you make the worse your life becomes.

James - I would rather know the extent to my nightmare may be. Simple is definitely better.

Stu16v - I will run it up my road tomorrow morning to get the ratio (no ally tag I'm afraid!)

I/P - I have a 5 speed, so point noted. Thanks.

JGG - Thanks for the info. Hopefully the one I've got will suffice for now.

I have made a pre new year resolution (probly the only one I can keep) now, to get a basic locost SVA'd without windscreen and extras and worrying about final drive ratios, and bloody drive it for a summer, then i can do all the things I'd like to do this time next year.

Cheers,

Mark





Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...

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jollygreengiant

posted on 7/12/02 at 01:43 AM Reply With Quote
Glad to be of help just enjoy the driving and good driving to boot, the longer you drive the more you learn.

I'm no angel but enjoy anyway & if your building, then changes come naturaly, as time progresses & confidence grows.

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