RK
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 02:01 AM |
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ca18det ongoing problems
I am not expecting miracles, but I am throwing this problem out there. Thank you to all who have helped so far, but I need new ideas and the NICO site
does not really apply, since this is an old engine with old wiring on a 7, not a 200sx.
Facts:
Temperature: -2 to -10 celcius
Engine: nissan CA18DET
Problem: Will not start. It used to start, it used to run, just not anymore.
Things I suspect it could be: MAF, IAT, Coolant sensor, vacuum leak, bad petrol , bad wires (they are from a 1989 car), bad ECU, bad ground wires.
Things I have checked: I took the MAF apart, cleaned it, ditto the IAT, I`ve checked for broken wires (there was one I repaired), checked the ground
wire connections, checked for vacuum leaks and I`ve added some injector cleaner to the tank.
Long term solution: get rid of the old wiring, and put in an MS system (which is not plug and play). I have bought most all the Ford parts.
It turns over but won`t catch properly. I am so fed up with this engine, which when it did run, ran incredibly rich.
I sense I won`t be able to keep my project below $35,000 now. And it doesn`t really look that great for that money. The MS alone will cost around
$1000 not including labour to put the trigger wheel on and mount the VR sensor.Do not use a non standard engine like this if you want a simple
life. I have an inspection coming up in a week or two and am panicking!
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 02:14 AM |
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I understand this will be no help (for two reasons - I am under the russian clear liquid influence, and two, I know nothing re car engine
programming!)
But, an extra $1000 is less than 3% your total build cost, I am sure that would be quite a typical example of cars out there, it's just a shame
that you are where you are, and a bit too remote for me to give you a hand!
and, you have had dodgy wiring if you have had to repair other wiring - Have you checked the specific wiring for the ignition.firing sequences...
and, you do not mention that you have checked the obvious stuff - Sparks? Fuel?
Regards,
S
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RK
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 02:27 AM |
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Spark, didn`t check. If I start taking things off and checking too much, it will go back wrong and be worse. You can smell the fuel so I assume it`s
going somewhere. The injectors are working (you can hear them with a metal rod next to each of them). It does sputter and a lot of black smoke comes
out (I`m thinking fuel is OK or too much).
I WAS thinking of a drop resistor (for injector voltage), which I have bought actually. Unfortunately, the dealer only had the NA spec S12 version
which doesn`t look the same as the S13 (update: they sold me something else; one with two wires. Well there are 4 injectors so this can`t be right).
Cold starting is a very common CA18DET problem from what I`ve read. Maybe it`s just too cold out.
Maybe I should just start drinking again.
Russian liquids: PLOXO!!!!
[Edited on 22/1/10 by RK]
[Edited on 23/1/10 by RK]
[Edited on 23/1/10 by RK]
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vorn
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 03:48 AM |
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is power getting to the coil packs??
When I wired my CA18 up I had no Power to the coil packs , so no spark . But the computer thought everyting was all good no fault lights , I know you
dont have you fault lights working but it is worth a check
Use the factory service manual to see how to test .
I will be somthing simple like that as you do not need much to get them to run !
Cheers
Vaughan
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 05:10 AM |
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Have you tried Easystart?
A spray of that is always a nice diagnostic. If it starts with Easystart then you know the sparks are working. Make sure the can is fairly warm as
it doesn't work well when below freezing.
Matt
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IanBrace
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 09:55 AM |
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You say it isn't catching 'properly'? If it is trying at all you have fuel and sparks of some sort.. if it was running very rich, it
is highly likely that the plugs are now carbon fouled. Try replacing them or wire brush and blow torch them clean and try again. If it's any
better you know you're in the right area. Another way is to stop the fuel pump and have a try to see if it picks up briefly as the fuel mixture
weakens as it runs out!
The main thing is to try and find what's causing the richness..
Hope this hopes a little.
www.aerialphotography.org.uk
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StrikerChris
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| posted on 22/1/10 at 12:40 PM |
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Had similar when I first fired mine (SR20DET) up,although it did actually fire and i could catch it with the throttle it didn't want to run. Was
Far too rich,although the flames from the exhaust were impressive! Purely by accident found the BOV was passing to atmosphere(it worked fine in the
donor so probably would have had me baffled for some time),and as it is after the airflow meter the ecu must have thought it was gettin more air than
it was.Binned it and plugged the pipe,ran fine.Hope its something simple like that with yours,any leak after the afm could cause similar.
Ps if its a wiring fault your on your own!Took me a week off work and 6 14hr days to trace the loom and chop what i didn't need!
[Edited on 22/1/10 by StrikerChris]
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RK
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| posted on 23/1/10 at 01:58 AM |
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Yes, there are 116 of those wires, and not easily replaceable, because they`re all colour coded.
I`m going to take the plugs out and clean them once the OAT goes above minus 15...
[Edited on 23/1/10 by RK]
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RK
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| posted on 24/1/10 at 09:48 PM |
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Plugs cleaned. Vacuum lines rechecked. Sputters but no life. Black smoke while sputtering, so I assume it has plenty of fuel.
Would installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator do anything? I have my test coming up and I don't want to really screw it up beyond what
it already is!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/1/10 at 10:05 PM |
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Excessively rich mixture is often the coolant temperature sensor at fault , would be my first port of call.
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RK
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| posted on 25/1/10 at 12:15 AM |
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I think you have hit the nail on the head. I know this is an important part of the system, but on old Nissans, my research is telling me that the
sensors' threshold of operation temperatures are set at too low a temperature. This tells the ECU that the engine needs more fuel. A sensor with
a higher threshold doesn't tell the ECU anything until it warms up, and the ECU sends less fuel (which is what you want).
Maybe I didn't explain it very well, or have completely misunderstood, but I think that the CTS needs replacing. Thanks again, everyone. This
thing might run properly yet!!
Got it running!! WAY too rich, but runs!
[Edited on 25/1/10 by RK]
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