Trev Borg
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 02:36 PM |
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200sx v1.8 silvia v RX7
The story so far
I have an Auto tune Gemini sat in my garage without an engine,
I would like to fit a jap engine (well today i do, tomorrow who knows) and would like to know opinions of anyone using or intending to use or were
considering using any of the formentioned engines.
I like a nice 150 BHP, and a jap engine with RWD would be nice also.
Does anyone have any dimentions for these engines / gearb boxes.
Any comments will be welcome.
Oh forgot to mention COST cheap is good (Yorkshireman)
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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ned
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 03:10 PM |
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200sx turbo is a good choice. can be picked up for very little cost and is 175bhp standard. I've heard there is a lot of wiring but on the plus
side it is meant to be a smaller engine than a pinto so should fit in the space nicely..
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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derf
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 03:22 PM |
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Here are the RX7 13b Dimensions, not exact, but they are close, the engine is small and light, and there is a world of aftermarket support for it.
Plus you can pick up a stock engine fairly cheap, same thing as ned said, there are wires everywhere, but it has the potential of making 300+ hp
reliably, and if you pick up a newer engine (depending on it's origin) you could start out with a rated "279hp" (the japs have a make
believe hp limit of 279, but produce cars well into the 300hp range).
 
13b CG render
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Trev Borg
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 05:14 PM |
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thanks for the feedback. RX7 dimensions are mint thanks. (assume they are inches)
I know that the 8 valve Silvia is suposed to 130 bhp and that adding an intercooler and induction kit you get a few more horses out of it, and the
200sx is a similar if not the same bottom end with 16 valve head. 175 bhp. I have been told(and seems to be true from the knackered ones for sale)
that the big ends tend to fail if not maintained every 3k.
Is there any problems with RX7?
I'll have a little measure of the old engine compartment to see if the RX7 will fit.
Thanks again, keep your opinions coming in.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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Trev Borg
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 05:40 PM |
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Just measured.
whats the length of the sections of gearbox.
where it is 10" across looks like it may be a bit tight. May have to widen the tunnel or move the engine forward.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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derf
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| posted on 4/8/04 at 07:29 PM |
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Yes its in inches
The rx7 engine has it's fair share of problems, you have to meticulously change the oil every 3k miles, or you run the risk of either running
out (takes around 12k miles) or seizing the engine, it is designed to burn a bit of oil, about 1/2 pink every 3k miles, the rotors compression also
depends on it as the oil seals the combustion chamber. It does require some special tools to check some stuff like compression, which is a 3 stage
electrical box that figures it out. Too much boost or detonation and the apex seals will wear prematurly, and they cost about $300-$800 depending on
how strong you want them to be, or how much you want to spend.
That being said I have seen plenty of rx7's with well over 200k miles on them, and they have never failed, and then I have seen ones that were
abused bad, and failed at 20k (usually from too much boost and not enuff fuel). It's a stout little mottor, they are incredibly light weight,
and can rev to no end (with perfect fuel and timing programing Ive seen 16k). And even though they say that it is a 2 rotor it is the equivalent of a
small 6 because each rotor has 3 combustion chambers. Also when they say that it is a 1.3L engine they really mean that 3.9L engine, again 3
combustion chambers per rotor, but mazda pulled a fast one on the emmissions testers (at least in the US) because maufacturers get tax brakes for
selling small engines).
If you ever want to increase the size of the engine there is always the stout 20b (3 rotor), which will supply much more power, and I found out
earlier that someone actually designed and is building a 4 rotor engine, which is my possible goal.
The greatest part about them is their complexity, most modern engines have hundreds of parts that can break, rotaries only have 9, thats a small list
of things you can break.
I know Some of what I said sounds bad, but let me finish by saying that the rotaries have basically the same lifespan of regular combustion engines as
long as you take care of them.
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locost_bryan
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| posted on 5/8/04 at 02:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Trev Borg
I know that the 8 valve Silvia is suposed to 130 bhp ... and the 200sx is a similar if not the same bottom end with 16 valve head. 175 bhp
google for SR20DE and CA18DE (atmo, add a T for turbo).
IIRC
CA18 (180SX, S12/13 Silvia) is iron block (same as Bluebird)
SR20 (200SX, S14/15 Silvia) is all-alloy 16v (same as Primera)
SR20 is bullet proof if maintained properly (mine broke a camshaft  - "cheaper to replace the engine, mate"  - because a previous
owner hadn't changed the oil!)
Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ
Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"
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Trev Borg
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| posted on 5/8/04 at 09:14 AM |
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Thanks for putting me right on that.
So iron = heavy = not as good.
Maybe the RX7 then.
Have been offered a 1988 13B complete car for £100. Apparenty rebuilt engine. somw 20k previous, but now MOT failure on holes in sills. Maybe worth
a six hour round trip to look at !
Thanks again, keep you opinions and help coming in.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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derf
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| posted on 5/8/04 at 11:59 AM |
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That is a good deal
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Trev Borg
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| posted on 5/8/04 at 12:22 PM |
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Do you have any problems with emmissions test with the rotary due to the oil burning thing.
Also MPG have been told it can be as low as 15.
Bloodly hell i'll need a fuel tank bigger than the car.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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pbura
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| posted on 5/8/04 at 02:02 PM |
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A good personal RX-7 site, with instructions on how to check compression with a standard gauge:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
The compression test is all-important. There's not much else that can be wrong with these engines.
It seems like most Locost builders using RX-7s don't have to be arsed with emissions controls, either because they are racing, or because they
live somewhere that doesn't require tests. Others only need to get past initial qualification, so can get by with a cheap cat that they later
toss. A proper emissions-legal exhaust for an RX-7 that will last for a while can be expensive.
Following is a very fine post from Locost NA about 13B mods. You may also want to read up and down the thread for more useful info:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Locost_North_America/message/15664
Pete
[Edited on 5/8/04 by pbura]
Pete
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Noodle
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| posted on 11/8/04 at 05:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Trev Borg
Thanks for putting me right on that.
So iron = heavy = not as good.
Maybe the RX7 then.
Have been offered a 1988 13B complete car for £100. Apparenty rebuilt engine. somw 20k previous, but now MOT failure on holes in sills. Maybe worth
a six hour round trip to look at !
Thanks again, keep you opinions and help coming in.
Blimey! If you don't want the £100 motor, I might!
Cheers,
Neil.
Your sort make me sick
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Trev Borg
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| posted on 11/8/04 at 11:40 PM |
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Decided not to go and look.
I've tried finding the number again but can't.
It was on LOOT, in Manchester,but the ad has gone. The guy was going on holiday last Friday so he may well be advertising again when he returns.
Sorry i can't find the number, i tend to delete a lot of stuff to avoid drowning in info.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
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