Rich J
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 12:48 PM |
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Antiroll bar drop links
I'm trying to fit an antiroll bar to the front of my Striker using a 1/2" Caterham bar into which I've put an extra bend either side
to line up with my wishbones. The problem I have is getting enough motion in the lower rod end to cope with the travel of the wishbone - it locks out
a bit too soon and does'nt allow enough wishbone travel.
It's a bit rudimentary at the moment but I'd welcome any suggestions on how to get round this problem
Thanks in advance
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 01:05 PM |
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Can't you weld the lower mounting to the wishbone at 90' to how it is now?
I'd have thought having it mounted that ar in on the wishbone would limit it's effect (low leverage). Is that intentional?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Rich J
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 01:23 PM |
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If I turn the mount through 90 degrees it then limits the amount I can move the upper rod fore and aft along the rollbar.
I placed the mounting there as its half way along the straight section of the rollbar, the idea being that, using split collars to locate the upper
rod end, it would allow me to move it and so adjust the stiffness - forward = stiffer, backwards = softer. Is that correct or am I way off the mark?
(not for the first time!)
Also I thought if I put it at right angles then, as the wishbone travels upwards, it will try to deflect the antiroll bar laterally as well as
vertically (looking from the front)? Perhaps its not enough to worry about?
Thanks for the qick reply BTW
Cheers, Rich
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 01:30 PM |
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You could mount it like this (not mine):
I would have thought in your present position the bar will need to be very stiff to get the desired effect owing to the leverage.
The way I have it is on the inboard end of the rocker arm.
more photos in the archive. This is a "Farley" ARB, but you could make the same thing yourself.
Matt
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mookaloid
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 01:32 PM |
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I can see your thinking re the adjustabilty fore and aft but to me (in addition to it locking out) the narrowness looks like it won't actually
do much as the deflection of the wishbones at that point is fairly minimal.
If you really want it to stay where it is just turn the lower rose joint through 90 degrees..and move the ARB forwards and backwards
[Edited on 21/11/11 by mookaloid]
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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mookaloid
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 01:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
You could mount it like this (not mine):
I like this arrangement: it is adjustable by rotating the blade - minimum stiffness as shown but max stiffness if turned through 90 Deg.
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 04:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rich J
I'm trying to fit an antiroll bar to the front of my Striker using a 1/2" Caterham bar into which I've put an extra bend either side
to line up with my wishbones. The problem I have is getting enough motion in the lower rod end to cope with the travel of the wishbone - it locks out
a bit too soon and does'nt allow enough wishbone travel.
It's a bit rudimentary at the moment but I'd welcome any suggestions on how to get round this problem
Thanks in advance
That simply isn't going to be effective with the mounts so close to the wishbone pivots. You need to attach the links at the point where the
deflection is as large as possible, either the outer end of the top rocker arm or bottom wishbone, or the inside of the top rocker arm.
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Rich J
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 04:21 PM |
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Ok - a redisgn is needed then
Thanks for the input guys 
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mikeb
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 05:30 PM |
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[Edited on 21/11/11 by mikeb]
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indykid
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 06:11 PM |
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But to answer the initial question (I don't think it's been answered), you need misalignment spacers to get more articulation out of your
rod ends.
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phelpsa
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 06:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by indykid
But to answer the initial question (I don't think it's been answered), you need misalignment spacers to get more articulation out of your
rod ends.
You wont get any more misalignment out of those in that orientation with misalignment spacers. The problem is that the top rod end is in the wrong
plane 
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Mad Dave
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 06:49 PM |
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I've used misalignment spacers on my buggy build. You have to use an oversize rod end with them to get the extra movement. Not sure you would
be able to adapt the anti-roll bar to make them work
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Peteff
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 07:54 PM |
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Buy a cheap anti roll bar drop link, I got one for £4 for my daughter's Corsa which we are repairing. It has proper ball joints at both ends and
you could cut one up to use the joints which will give you more articulation
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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SPYDER
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| posted on 21/11/11 at 08:40 PM |
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Hi Rich. The Titanium arrangement pictured above is my handywork.( Apart from the welding). The centre section is a cut down 16mm caterham item. The
rest is all bespoke but not too difficult to do. The pics don't show the mounts but they are straightforward items. A lot of designs only have
an adjustable blade on one end. Steel blades are available commercially.
Try the following link.
Geoff.
ARB LINKY
[img] [/img]
[Edited on 21/11/11 by SPYDER]
[Edited on 21/11/11 by SPYDER]
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Rich J
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| posted on 23/11/11 at 01:11 PM |
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Thanks again for the replies guys. I'm going to go with Matt's inboard set up
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T66
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| posted on 23/11/11 at 04:02 PM |
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How about this option- Saw this at Harewood
The bottom damper bolt is turned down on a lathe, then gets a new thread cut on the machined bit to tie it to the rose joint
 
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