Nickp
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 07:09 AM |
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Best primer / topcoat for a full respray?
I've accepted that the Midas will need painting sooner rather than later as the gelcoat is a real mess, not much cracking but somehow stained so
it actually has a marble effect. Ok in a hotel lobby but less so on a kit car 
I have a well ventilated garage and a small 50ltr compressor.
It seems I'll need an epoxy primer of some sort?
But which top coat? Obviously not 2K, cellulose still OK? (painted my Monte in celly, no issues). Seems these swanky modern water based paint have to
be lacquered over anyway. This right? Was hoping not to be lacquering if I can help it tbh.
Any advice or recommendations welcomed.
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tilly819
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 08:35 AM |
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Hi Nick,
You have about hit the nail on the head.
You do not have the facilities to paint with 2K so please don't even consider it. As i'm sure you already know the heath implications are
very serious.
Waterbased, yes to get the best out of it it wants to be a COB (clear over base) paint job, so you would want to lacquer it. Not ideal in a dusty
garage.
That leaves you with synthetic and cellulose.
Synthetic is very cheep and can be a bit tricky to paint to a high standard if you don't know what you are doing.
Cellulose is also very cheap but in my opinion easier to spray than synthetic. The trick with cellulose is lots of light coats which means it can take
a while but you will get a perfectly acceptable paint job when you are done and it would be appropriate for the age of the vehicle too.
Hope this helps
Tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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tilly819
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 08:46 AM |
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Sorry forgot about the primer.
I would go for a 1K etch primer. They are generally fairly high build so you would not need a secondary primer like you would with a 2K etch (which
you should not be using anyway)
> Sand, fill, flat
>Clean.....then clean again....then again....and once more to be sure..
>1k Etch prime, if good enough finish go straight to top coat, if not then you can lightly flat once dry.
>Multiple light coats of cellulose, again if good enough finish you are done if not wait a couple of days then wet sand and polish.
Also this time of year you will want to heat you workshop as the paint will not like the low temperatures.
Cheers
Tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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Nickp
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 09:42 AM |
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Ta Tilly,
So a 1K etch primer then a normal cellulose primer?
I prefer the idea of cellulose tbh as I've used it lots of times before so know where I'm at. I'm thinking of 'Applejack
Green' to keep it period 
Sorry, just read again, 1K primer only?
[Edited on 10/11/17 by Nickp]
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tilly819
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 12:24 PM |
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Depending on how good your prep is you can "get away with" topcoat straight on top of 1K etch providing it is a high build etch primer. A
lot of them are.. if you are in any doubt about it then you can do the normal, Etch>Prime>Topcoat
Personally I would do the 3 step process and use a primer on top of the etch as this allow you a bit more margin for error when you flat back before
the topcoat.
Hope this helps
Tilly
EDIT: Ps. Yes just a normal cellulose primer, normally you can do wet on wet at this stage but please check with the paint manufacturer!! and some
products may react if you do wet on wet.
[Edited on 10/11/17 by tilly819]
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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iant88
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 12:26 PM |
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Isn't the Midas fibreglass ?
Why do you recommend etch-primer ?
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tilly819
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| posted on 10/11/17 at 12:45 PM |
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I believe they are fiberglass, yes. Most etch primers are compatible with GRP, always check the data sheet / with the supplier though as some may not
be!
It just provides more bond between the panel and the subsequent layers of paint.
Another option would be a plastic grip primer. They are special primers formulated for, you guessed it, applying direct to plastics, as many plastics
(polyester GRP inc) do not like being bonded to once they are past there green stage in their curing cycle.
You can do it without but for the extra few £s its worth it.
Cheers
Tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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